Which is better with a f1.4 lens and 400 ISO?

[kshapero]

Which is better with a f1.4 lens and 400 ISO in a low light situation?

1. wide open at f1.4, 1/15 second set at 400 ISO
2 f2.0, 1/15 second pushed to 800 ISO
3. wide open at f1.4, 1/30 second pushed to 800 ISO
4. wide open at f1.4, 1/8 second pulled to 200 ISO
5 f2.0, 1/8 second at 400 ISO
6. f2.8, 1/8 second pushed to 800 ISO

[philhirn]

1.4 1/30 TriX in Emofin

[ferider]

What focal length ?

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

1/8 second at f2, shoot the film at 400, no pushing. Why these settings? Virtually all f1.4 lenses are a lot sharper at f2 than at 1.4. Pushing film increases contrast and grain, so best quality is at normal speed.

[kshapero]

What focal length ?50mm is the focal length.

[mackigator]

Better for what?

I start with an opposite approach - I think of how I wish something would look, an idea in my mind's eye, then I adjust the camera to get something on film, hoping that it corresponds with my idea.

Each of those settings is a different idea.

[kshapero]

1/8 second at f2, shoot the film at 400, no pushing. Why these settings? Virtually all f1.4 lenses are a lot sharper at f2 than at 1.4. Pushing film increases contrast and grain, so best quality is at normal speed.Good point, so then why get a lens as fast as 1.4?

[FrozenInTime]

If thing are moving f/1.4 and ISO 800

[Al Kaplan]

There is no "best". It depends on the subject and the situation. How are you at holding steady? Will the subject be too contrasty if you push the film?

[kshapero]

Of course, I know there is no right answer but I appreciate the discourse.

[mfogiel]

Look up this old experiment of mine:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41726&highlight=handholding+bessa

The general rule is, that if you are smart, you can get critical sharpness at half the focal length equivalent in speed, so for a 50mm it would be 1/30th, BTW develop in Diafine, and you can expose at EI 1250, even 1600

[ferider]

- Hand-held, if the film is easily pushable (for example BW400CN is not): 3.)
- if you can brace against something, or have a chance to shoot 3 shots for bracketing: 1.).

Roland.

[ItsReallyDarren]

Bracket bracket bracket
I would go with option 1. wide open, 1/15, iso400

Also couldn't hurt to brush up on breathing techniques

[Al Kaplan]

The best way to learn breathing techniques, proper stance, etc. is to take a couse in pistol shooting. Everytime you go in a grocery or drugstore with one of those take-your-blood-pressure machines DO IT! See just how low you can get it.

[Disaster_Area]

It depends... is getting the best possible negative even if it means blowing through a whole roll to get one shot without motion blur on your part or the subjects...then lower your shutter speed, don't push and hope.

If I'm shooting low light and I MUST get a shot regardless of the best possibly tonality etc... set the aperture you want to get the look you want... set the shutterspeed to the slowest possible that GUARANTEES no motion blur (at least 1/focal lenght or faster depending on subject) then shoot away and forget about exposure... seriously...

develop in Rodinal 1:200 stand development for a couple hours

They may not be the best negatives tonal range wise... but you'd be surprised how well it works

This works really well in REALLY low light with rapidly changing lighting situations... like +/-5 stops every couple seconds (concerts with lots of lighting effects etc)

[like2fiddle]

... BTW develop in Diafine, and you can expose at EI 1250, even 1600

I know this wasn't an option you listed, but Tri-x @ 1250 and Diafine may give you more options.

[januaryman]

Look up this old experiment of mine:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41726&highlight=handholding+bessa

The general rule is, that if you are smart, you can get critical sharpness at half the focal length equivalent in speed, so for a 50mm it would be 1/30th, BTW develop in Diafine, and you can expose at EI 1250, even 1600

The corollary to that theorem is that if your age >50, the critical sharpness is attained AT the focal length equivalent in speed (rounding upwards). So for a 60 year old photog (like me), using a 50mm lens, it would be 1/60.

If I'd just had an espresso, add another click to 1/125! ;)

[januaryman]

The best way to learn breathing techniques, proper stance, etc. is to take a couse in pistol shooting. Everytime you go in a grocery or drugstore with one of those take-your-blood-pressure machines DO IT! See just how low you can get it.

Al, are you suggesting we take pistol training at our grocery store while having our blood pressure checked? THAT can't be good! ;)

[elshaneo]

I'd go for the "third" choice just to be safe with a 50mm lens, but if you're really good at staying steady + good breathing technique, the "first" choice is best then ;-)

[kshapero]

If I'd just had an espresso, add another click to 1/125! ;)That is no joke. Coffee is not the hand holder's best friend. Although a series on photographers on caffeine might be cool.:D

[maddoc]

f/1.0 + 1/60s @ 800ISO works quite well. :)

[40oz]

I'd suggest f/2 at 1/30th, and if you think you need 800, push to 1600. There's nothing to be gained pushing to 800 that is lost pushing to 1600 with Tri-X IMHO. In other words, shoot it at 400 or 1600, no reason to bother with 800.

Good point, so then why get a lens as fast as 1.4?

because then your lens is not vignetting at f/2 :)

Seriously, my car will go 150mph, which just makes it much easier/safer to pass on two lane roads and pull out into traffic than it would if it was a four-cylinder econocar that topped out at 100 mph. Just because the limits are higher doesn't mean it always needs to be used at them to reap the benefits.

[RayPA]

I think you have to give yourself the best chance to eliminate as much camera shake as you can, so shoot at the highest possible shutter speed and do whatever it takes to do that. If you can shoot consistently at 1/8 then more power to you. I rarely go below 1/30 and try to use 1/60 whenever possible ( in low-light situations). Next time bring faster film or shoot with your Nikon D700. :)

[sanmich]

1.4 1/30 TriX in Emofin

yeah!

exactly!! :):)

[sanmich]

at a certain stage, I just let go, and shhot 1/15 and lower, trying to get the most interesting movement..

[thomasw_]

f/1.0 + 1/60s @ 800ISO works quite well. :)

Show boater ;P


Number 1 for me. My understanding is that if one is steady in his breathing 1/2 of the FL should be the shutter speed, i.e., 1/2 of 50 = 25. And 1/25 is not much from 1/30 or 1/15; so be calm and courageous and go for 1/15! Any creative action involves a calculated risk...

[gilpen123]

Use a mini tripod and anchor on your chest I can shoot 1/8 with great success.

[fixbones]

I'd try to shoot f2 at 1/8 at ISO 400 if i can
otherwise f1.4 at 1/15 at ISO 400

I'd agree that if you are pushing to ISO800, might as well go all the way to ISO1600 if the film permits

[fixbones]

Interesting question by the way...........

[swoop]

If there's motion.
wide open at f1.4, 1/30 second pushed to 800 ISO

If it's still.
f2.0, 1/8 second at 400 ISO

I can shoot at 1/8th consistently. The trouble is if there's motion in the image, like a person dancing or so. At 1/8 the subject will be motion blurred. Not camera shake blurred. So 1/30 will yield a better image.

If it's still. And you can do 1/8 just fine. Go ahead. You can a cleaner photo at ISO 400 and f2. The f2 also helps because you'll likely be closer. So you'll get more DOF.

[kshapero]

Sometimes slow speed and motion can work. Shot at 1/8

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3356/3245659136_25c6de903e.jpg

[tim_c]

If the triangle on the left isn't flashing then take the picture! No one will care about the camera shake induced blur if the subject matter is interesting.

[Merkin]

Good point, so then why get a lens as fast as 1.4?

Two reasons: The first is so that it is there if it is absolutely needed, or if your need for an extremely shallow depth of field outweighs your need for fantastic sharpness.

The second, and most important reason is that just as an f1.4 lens doesn't look its best until f2 or f2.8, an f2 lens doesn't look its best until f2.8 or f4.

[narsuitus]

Options 2, 3, 4, and 6 are eliminated for me because I have never pulled my film and I rarely push my film. If I needed to shoot at an ISO higher than 400, I simply get a film with a higher ISO rating.

Option 5 is eliminated for me because I cannot handhold a camera at 1/8 of a second without camera shake.

Therefore, option 1 (wide open at f1.4, 1/15 second set at 400 ISO) is the only viable option for me. Even when I do shoot with my 50mm f/1.4 or my 35mm f/1.4 in dim light without a flash, I use a tripod, a monopod, or chest pod.

[Juan Valdenebro]

Sometimes slow speed and motion can work. Shot at 1/8

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3356/3245659136_25c6de903e.jpg

Wonderful!