Which first lens for M8?

[ambientmick]

I'm getting an M8 very shortly and want opinions on which is the best overall lens I should get. I want it for general street type shooting. The 2 I've been looking at are the Elmarit 28mm f2.8 aspheric and the Leica Summarit 35mm F2.5. They are around the same price. This will the only lens I can afford for some time (except maybe a vc 50 1.5) so it's important I make the right choice. I know this kind of question is asked often but it is a lot of money:eek: Thanks for your opinions.

[tbarker13]

Both are fine lenses.
Of course, you could also look at some of modern offerings by CV and Zeiss. You could, for example, pick up the Zeiss 35/2 biogon and 50/2 planar for roughly the same price as either of those Leica lenses.

You can't really go wrong on this unless you try really hard.

[Gid]

Michael,

I suggest you check out www.reidreviews.com

Sean Reid has covered off most of the lenses from most of the manufacturers.

There are those who will argue contrary, but CV lenses really are great value for money, as are Hexanon and Zeiss.

The first question is what focal length would you normally shoot if you picked up a prime - if 50, then you need a 35, if 35 then you need a 28 etc.

In 35 you have so many choices - the new CV 35 F1.4 or the CV 35 F2.5 pancake, the Hexanon M 35 F2 or the Hexanon 35 F2 UC, the Zeiss Biogon 35 F2 (never used this, but those who have seem to rate it very highly), all for a fraction of a recent Leica 35. If I were making this choice based on what I know it would be the Hexanon 35 (either version) and Hexanon 50, but there are no bad choices.

Good luck with your decision.

Best

[Gabriel M.A.]

This will the only lens I can afford for some time (except maybe a vc 50 1.5) so it's important I make the right choice.
There is never a "right choice" if you know what you want. It will always be the "wrong choice" if you don't know what you want.

You'll have to know what you want, what you expect, what your budget is, and then whether you are looking for a particular look and/or application.

Many people get more hung up on brands than images.

Sometimes a brand is a guide to what is already known about their offerings. Sometimes it's a distraction.

Price, however, trumps accessibility.

[BillBingham2]

Get two lenses and get another battery pack. I would get the CV 28/1.9 Asph Ultron and a coded adapter. It's fast and sharp and you might be able to find one used. Then get the ZI 50/1.5 and have it tweaked for coding. Use the left over money to buy an extra battery pack or perhaps some lens hoods.

IMHO a much better kit than the single Solms glass. The only reason I do not say the ZI 28 is because of speed. Faster is better in a two lens kit.

B2 (;->

[ambientmick]

Michael,

I suggest you check out www.reidreviews.com

Sean Reid has covered off most of the lenses from most of the manufacturers.

There are those who will argue contrary, but CV lenses really are great value for money, as are Hexanon and Zeiss.

The first question is what focal length would you normally shoot if you picked up a prime - if 50, then you need a 35, if 35 then you need a 28 etc.

In 35 you have so many choices - the new CV 35 F1.4 or the CV 35 F2.5 pancake, the Hexanon M 35 F2 or the Hexanon 35 F2 UC, the Zeiss Biogon 35 F2 (never used this, but those who have seem to rate it very highly), all for a fraction of a recent Leica 35. If I were making this choice based on what I know it would be the Hexanon 35 (either version) and Hexanon 50, but there are no bad choices.

Good luck with your decision.

Best

Thanks Gid. I've had a subscription with Reid Reviews for a bit and respect his obviously knowledgeable views. In his M8 review he recommends Leica for wide angle and CV or Zeiss for longer (based on value) because of the 6 bit coding necessary at less than 50mm. That's mainly why I'm looking at the stated lenses. I know it's possible to code other lenses manually but there's one thing I haven't been able to find out. Is the 6 bit coding only relavant to jpeg capture or are the corrections applied to raws. I'm sure Sean covers this somewhere but I still haven't managed to go through his extensive commentary on the M8 and lenses.

Thanks. Michael.

[ambientmick]

Both are fine lenses.
Of course, you could also look at some of modern offerings by CV and Zeiss. You could, for example, pick up the Zeiss 35/2 biogon and 50/2 planar for roughly the same price as either of those Leica lenses.

You can't really go wrong on this unless you try really hard.

Thanks. Is there an easy way to code these lenses and is it really necessary?

[ambientmick]

Get two lenses and get another battery pack. I would get the CV 28/1.9 Asph Ultron and a coded adapter. It's fast and sharp and you might be able to find one used. Then get the ZI 50/1.5 and have it tweaked for coding. Use the left over money to buy an extra battery pack or perhaps some lens hoods.

IMHO a much better kit than the single Solms glass. The only reason I do not say the ZI 28 is because of speed. Faster is better in a two lens kit.

B2 (;->

Thanks. The CV 28/1.9 is definite possibility. Can you explain how I would get a ZI 50 1.5 coded? Please excuse my ignorance:)

[tbarker13]

Thanks. Is there an easy way to code these lenses and is it really necessary?

For my needs. No.
I'm sure others will have different opinions.

[BillBingham2]

The CV Stephen can do the LTM adapter, version 2 I think is the right one. I would drop a note to Tony at PopFlash and see what he can do for you if you get the ZI from him. My gut tells me that he can do some magic, if not him, someone else in the general area can. I'm sorry I do not have any specifics, I looked at the Epson for a long time till I went a different way. Did a lot of thinking and what-ifs.

If you come up dry with Tony drop me a PM, I might have another source I can reach out to, but I think Tony if you buy it from him is better.

The actual coding is not hard. If they can do an LTM adapter they can remove the mount (usually about three or four screws) from the ZI lens and pop it into the same machine they use for the adapter.

B2 (;->

[ambientmick]

The CV Stephen can do the LTM adapter, version 2 I think is the right one. I would drop a note to Tony at PopFlash and see what he can do for you if you get the ZI from him. My gut tells me that he can do some magic, if not him, someone else in the general area can. I'm sorry I do not have any specifics, I looked at the Epson for a long time till I went a different way. Did a lot of thinking and what-ifs.

If you come up dry with Tony drop me a PM, I might have another source I can reach out to, but I think Tony if you buy it from him is better.

The actual coding is not hard. If they can do an LTM adapter they can remove the mount (usually about three or four screws) from the ZI lens and pop it into the same machine they use for the adapter.

B2 (;->

I'm in the UK so PopFlash isn't really an option. Thanks anyway.

[infocusf8@earthlink.]

Get the Leica 28mm F2.8 asph. Elmarit and weld it on your M8. You'll love the image quality and won't have to worry about coding third party lenses. CV's are good, I own some, but I'm always glad I bought the Leica 28 when I see the images it produces.

[Wang Chung]

I'm getting an M8 very shortly and want opinions on which is the best overall lens I should get. I want it for general street type shooting. The 2 I've been looking at are the Elmarit 28mm f2.8 aspheric and the Leica Summarit 35mm F2.5. They are around the same price. This will the only lens I can afford for some time (except maybe a vc 50 1.5) so it's important I make the right choice. I know this kind of question is asked often but it is a lot of money:eek: Thanks for your opinions.


I've had excellent results with the Elmarit M 1:2.8/21mm Asph and Summilux M 1:1.4 35 Asph lenses both with my M6 and M8.

On the M6 I found I wasn't using the 21 as much, but now on the M8 its pretty much my standard lens for my street shooting resulting in an approx 28mm field of coverage. But I also love the 35. If you can afford those I'd sure recommend them but if I had to pick just 1 it would be the 21.

Good luck...

Wang'r

[BillBingham2]

I'm in the UK so PopFlash isn't really an option. Thanks anyway.

Why not? I would bet he might have a used one (or one that could be made into slightly used, say for testing) that could be tweaked and might cost you less than if you were to buy it locally. Drop Tony an email and ask. Stephen is the same way. If they shoot a picture through the lens it is used and the price (VATable) should drop.

There used to be a UK dealer who, White was it? Who I thought had ZI lenses too, if you want to stay local. But the strength of the GBP is wonderful for you right now, buying from over here should give you quite a bargain.

B2 (;->

[ChipNovaMac]

Get two lenses and get another battery pack. I would get the CV 28/1.9 Asph Ultron and a coded adapter. It's fast and sharp and you might be able to find one used. Then get the ZI 50/1.5 and have it tweaked for coding. Use the left over money to buy an extra battery pack or perhaps some lens hoods.

IMHO a much better kit than the single Solms glass. The only reason I do not say the ZI 28 is because of speed. Faster is better in a two lens kit.

B2 (;->

I agree with you about the Ultron and the JM adapter. Used that combo a month ago in SF. The big thing in looking at any lens is the field of view that meets your personal "eye". The 28mm on an M8 is something I am growing in to.

[Gid]

Michael,

I have not coded any of my lenses. 35mm and up really is not necessary from a cyan corner point of view IMHO, based on real shooting experience. I also use an uncoded 21 2.8 (Kobalux) and have no cyan problems in real world application. So, the coding basically gives you focal length in the exif. there is a program called cornerfix which is available through the LUF which fixes any problem if you find one and haven't coded your lenses. Now, if you're thinking of shooting white sheets, then, you might see something.

Best

[DaveB]

I use the CV15mm unfiltered and uncoded. Whatever route you go for a first lens, I think that inexpensive little super-wide CV is a "must have" with the M8.

[ramosa]

i, too, recently purchased an M8. my first lens is the elmarit 28mm. it's a great lens (sharp, very small, etc.)--and a great focal length for my style of shooting. i am, however, planning to add one more lens--a cron 50mm. those two lenses will satisfy pretty much all of my needs.

[Cindy Flood]

You have to keep in mind where you will be using the lenses. You should be fine with the 28 elmarit in England, but in Arizona and Florida, where I spend part of the year, one wouldn't want to use the more contrasty lenses (28 elmarit and CV 50 f1.5, for example). Sean Reid really points out these differences.

You can buy the version II adapter for LTM lenses from Cameraquest and send them to John Milich. John will mill the holes for the code for $25 (I believe). I used black and white nail polish and it was simple to do the coding. He will also mill Zeiss lenses, but you must remove the lens from the mount and send it to him.

Nobody can really tell you which will be best for you, but it would be hard to make a mistake among all the wonderful options.

DaveB is right about the CV 15mm. It is a wonderful bargain that really delivers.

[caparobertsan]

I am too thinking of buying a M8 and one lens only. I already bought voightlander 35/1.2 lens But I regret. No body yet. I should have bought 35/2 ash summicron lens and m8!!!!

But now I still want 35/2 but no money so I want 35/2.5 summarit lens. I hear this series of lens are very very sharp!!! And with m8 It will become slightly wider standard lens which is perfect for me for traveling.
But If I have a choice I want 35/2 chrome with chrome M8. Beautiful looking kit! I like to play with camera.

Serious photographer shold be buying black lens and black M8!!!!

It depens on what u use m8 for. Good luck!

[PAFriedman]

How/where can John Milich be reached?

[ChipNovaMac]

How/where can John Milich be reached?

jm@milich.com

He is a class act!

I have a C/V 15mm that I wanted a filter adapter for.

I was tight on time when I placed the order. He sent me an adapter that he had used without problems. I also expressed a desire to get in time for a trip. He took an extra step that I never expected him to.

I have also ordered the SM adapters. They are very well done.

Just communicate your needs/desires and he will keep you informed.

[Digital Dude]

I went through the same process starting back in September. After reading hundreds of posts and asking hundreds of questions together with "Reids Reviews", "Erwin Puts" and those boring ass Leica pdf files (I read them all), I was left with two viable directions based on advise from a true lens guru. He said, I could aim for a “lens set” or a “lens collection”. He allowed me to learn from his mistakes and now I’m 2/3rd complete. In order of precedents, I went with 28/50/21. I have only the 21 still on my wish list. If I had to do it over again, I would also consider 24/50/75.

BTW: All the reading in the world isn’t going to mean a lot until you have at least two lenses. Otherwise, it’s like trying to analyze a bar chart containing only one bar. Your second lens will allow everything to start falling in to place. Ok, there is no right or wrong answer here although I personally like the direction I’m heading, aside from being broke!
Regards,:D

[jackal2513]

1 lens ?


50 is really limited (no good for street photography)
35 is good
but 28 is better because you can always crop



if youre on a budget: 28mm Ultron, absolutely stunning first class lens at a silly price

if you have money to burn: 28 cron, stunning lens, beautiful wide open




I dont recomend getting a slower lens otherwsie whats the point of owning a leica RF
Besdies, the 28 2.8 elmarit i sbonkers contrast like teh biogons so you dont want that for street photography.

[jackal2513]

Thanks. Is there an easy way to code these lenses and is it really necessary?


its so sad that people buy lenses and lenses win group shootouts based on ease of coding

fix it in photoshop, ctrl+u and then hit the magnetas. A little lasso helps as well. Takes about 7 seconds. Way quicker than faffing aroudn with 68 different ir filters, custom bayonets, menus, sub menus, tipex and charcoal stuck to your lenses with blu tac and generally you pulling your hair out and frightened to get out of bed for fear of anyone weraing a black sweatshirt !



The other thing I don't get is that the very pictures that are likely to suffer from IR issues are the pictures that should invariably be in black & white. Colour dominates and makes a complete mess of a picture VERY quickly.... and people's clothes is a major culprit.




Every used lens I bought i've sold the IR filter on separately... I must be on about 500 quid profit so far. Such a waste of good money.

[kdemas]

A nice combo, if you were starting out, might include a Zeiss 25mm ZM. This is a wonderful walk around lens and the results are outstanding. I used it extensively when I was in Paris a bit ago and loved the results.

Enjoy your M8!

Kent