B&W digital workflow

[kshapero]

Recently I went to shooting my RD-1 in BW.My BW workflow is first i read the card with ACDsee detector (do not browse images close down when done aquiring), then I postprocess in Epson Raw standalone in BW, then save to JPEG in a subfolder. Then I open Acdsee Pro V2 into the subfolder directly. The whole workflow allows me never to be distracted by color. BW all the way thru.

[usagisakana]

I prefer to shoot colour RAW, then convert to B+W in PS CS3, allowing me to selectively tone the images, by playing with the colour settings till I get what I like. That or I shoot B+W film. But whatever works for you- different strokes etc

[kshapero]

For me, once I see color I get pulled into it. Of course I can always go back to the original RAW file on work on color.

[kshapero]

Example:
http://akivaphotography.smugmug.com/photos/259150048_em5M9-S.jpg

[dazedgonebye]

I don't know the epson raw tool. Unless it gives you a great deal of flexibility in conversion to mono, I'd work the image in color in photoshop.
Channel mixer is your friend.

[charjohncarter]

I stopped doing B&W conversions from digital. I just like the B&W negative digitalized better, but when I was doing it this was my work-flow:

Open file (color)
Adjusted levels
A/W Conversion from www.photo-plugins.com (http://www.photo-plugins.com) (freeware)
I usually choose the TriX preset.
Converted
then hit UnSharp Mask 20-50-0 (to add a little snap)
then sharpened if needed
Adjust brightness
Save, done

[lightwriter]

Recently I went to shooting my RD-1 in BW.My BW workflow is first i read the card with ACDsee detector (do not browse images close down when done aquiring), then I postprocess in Epson Raw standalone in BW, then save to JPEG in a subfolder. Then I open Acdsee Pro V2 into the subfolder directly. The whole workflow allows me never to be distracted by color. BW all the way thru.


I also like Epson Raw converter. They really put a lot of thought into it. I find that i get distracted by color and prefer to have the entire workflow in B&W. I also really like the "analog" way of processing images by selecting from the different filters that you would normally use with film. I am actually struggling with the M8 images at the moment b/c I lack a workflow. I wish I could find something as intuitive as what Epson had for the R-D1 images.

[lightwriter]

I stopped doing B&W conversions from digital. I just like the B&W negative digitalized better, but when I was doing it this was my work-flow:

Open file (color)
Adjusted levels
A/W Conversion from www.photo-plugins.com (http://www.photo-plugins.com) (freeware)
I usually choose the TriX preset.
Converted
then hit UnSharp Mask 20-50-0 (to add a little snap)
then sharpened if needed
Adjust brightness
Save, done


Thanks, I'll have to try that....

[GeneW]

Channel Mixer is indeed very good. Amazing how much you can influence tonality in many subjects, which is why I shoot all my digital B&W in colour.

To get the ultimate in conversion, start with RAW if your cam supports it, and convert to 16-bit TIFF. That gives you more flexibility in Photoshop.

The key thing to remember about digital is that it's linear -- no toe or shoulder, like film. No subtle response curve either. So darker areas can go pitch black and lose detail quickly, before the mid tones feel right.

To overcome this I like to work on a duplicate layer with Curves and Levels, fine tuning my way towards really good mid tones. This often means using a layer mask and brush to brush back detail in the darker areas. It sounds complicated but once you've done it a few times it goes quickly.

Downsize and save out to JPG for web use. Save as TIFF or Adobe DNG if you want to keep a full-size image at 16-bit.

Gene

[kipkeston]

For digital captures I think Lightroom is ideal.

[2tcreative]

Get George DeWolfe's book (http://www.amazon.com/George-DeWolfes-Digital-Photography-Workshop/dp/0072260874/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1206064944&sr=1-1) on fine art printing workflow. Even though it deals primarily with color the use of the Adobe Raw converter and using the saturation slider to make it grayscale/desaturated, then manipulate illumination of the image (tones) is worth the price of the book alone. Much more on workflow and doesn't even get into Lightroom.