Summicron-C 40mm Action

[NB23]

I remember my old minolta days, shooting with a 45mm f2 rokkor and getting great results. Especially in the out of focus transitions. It was magic. This is why I absolutely love my summarit-M, for its romantic rendition.
I quickly started desperately looking for a 40mm f2 Leitz or Minolta. I finally got the Leitz, some 3 months ago, and I have to say I'm not disapointed.

It's not about sharpness. It's something else... and I knew a rainy day was the perfect match for this lens.

http://www.angelfire.com/ne2/nenadbojic/2007/Web-Montreal2007-2.jpg

[MikeL]

Very Nice Ned, I really like the tones in the image.

[maddoc]

I like it Ned ! The tones (contrast ?) have something that tells me "autumn". Nice :)

[rodneyAB]

me too.....

[NB23]

So guys, when are you going to buy this little cheap lens? :cool:

[ferider]

Rokkor and sun-shine OK, too ?

http://ferider.smugmug.com/photos/131856593-O.jpg

[hans voralberg]

Following one on ebay, this one is bloody hard to find lol

[Joe Brugger]

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=71555&ppuser=1085


What do I need to do to get a Gallery photo appear in a thread reply?

[espressogeek]

I sold R-D1 but I kept my Summi-C 40/2! I knew there would come a day when I returned and I didn't want to have to search for that lens all over again. I also kept my Canon 50/1.4 too!

[NB23]

Following one on ebay, this one is bloody hard to find lol

Which one, the Minolta or the Leitz?

[NB23]

Ferider, nice shot! What film?

[ferider]

Thanks ! Reala 100.

Roland.

[hans voralberg]

The Leitz, just found one on Keh. Is there any relation between the two? They look awfully familiar to me :D Im new to the scene so details would be great ^^

[MikeL]

So guys, when are you going to buy this little cheap lens? :cool:

Ned, if you hadn't posted the name of it in the title, it might still be cheap. It's threads like these that make them un-cheap! :) Next time tell everyone it's a 35mm version 4 Summicron. Threads can't increase the price of those much....

[NB23]

Ned, if you hadn't posted the name of it in the title, it might still be cheap. It's threads like these that make them un-cheap! :) Next time tell everyone it's a 35mm version 4 Summicron. Threads can't increase the price of those much....

Well, Mike, my Noctilux thread is doing bad so let's hope it drives the Noctilux prices down ;) ;) ;)

[PetarDima]

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h272/PetarDima/Flowerseller.jpg


BESSA R2M, Minolta Rokkor 40mm

[ferider]

The Leitz, just found one on Keh. Is there any relation between the two? They look awfully familiar to me :D Im new to the scene so details would be great ^^

Hans, there are basically three lenses:

The Summicron-C, the CL Rokkor, and the CLE Rokkor.

The optical configurations are the same. They differ in coating and mechanics.
Some say the first two are single coated and the CLE Rokkor is multi-coated,
but there are indications that multi-coated Summicron Cs exists. Definitely,
the CLE Rokkor was multi-coated.

The CLE Rokkor has a straight focusing cam, while the Summicron and
CL Rokkor have a slanted cam. I find the CLE mechanics more similar
to the 35/2 (better IMO). The Summicron uses hard to find series 5.5
filters, the Rokkor 40.5mm. The CL Rokkor has serial nr. on the front ring,
the CLE Rokkor does not.

Best,

Roland.

[hans voralberg]

Sry for hijack the thread into a QA, but what is a focusing cam ? personal preference aside is the Leitz better in any aspect compare to the CL rokkor, cause i can only locate those 2.

P.s: ferider could you clear PM :D

[ferider]

Sry for hijack the thread into a QA, but what is a focusing cam ? personal preference aside is the Leitz better in any aspect compare to the CL rokkor, cause i can only locate those 2.

P.s: ferider could you clear PM :D

Done.

"Focusing cam": der Ring auf der Rueckseite des Objektivs, der sich vor
und zurueck bewegt und dabei den Entfernungsmesser der Kamera beruehrt.

Gruss,

Roland.

[RHaroldP]

So guys, when are you going to buy this little cheap lens? :cool:


Great shot, great lens.

I already have one.

Richard

[maddoc]

Well, Mike, my Noctilux thread is doing bad so let's hope it drives the Noctilux prices down ;) ;) ;)

I really hope so .... :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::D

[maddoc]

So guys, when are you going to buy this little cheap lens? :cool:

After the Noctilux .... :D

[moonwrack]

When using a 40mm on an M-series, would you use the 35mm of 50mm frame lines?

[hans voralberg]

Somewhere in between ? Guesstimate ?

[Pherdinand]

Ned - do you really really think it's the lens that does it?
Now honestly. Really?

[PetarDima]

I just developed one roll of Efke KB 400 * push for 1 f-stop, 15 min, 20 C in Microphen 1:1 ... new Minolta Rokkor shots will be soon :)
P.S. Anyone have photos with Rokkor 28mm ???

[hans voralberg]

ah lovely :D Im pondering between this and Harris 35mm skopa

[EmilGil]

When using a 40mm on an M-series, would you use the 35mm of 50mm frame lines?
When I checked my M6TTL + 40mm Summicron-C, it was an almost perfect match with the 35mm frames on distances over a few meters. Closer than 3m or so, you need to frame a bit tighter (but not anywhere as tight as the 50mm frame). Making the 35mm frame show up instead of the 50mm one is pretty simple, just take out a file and remove about 1mm from a flange on the back of the lens.

BTW, this thread reminds me that I need to send my 40mm for a CLA as the focusing ring is very stiff...

[Pherdinand]

Making the 35mm frame show up instead of the 50mm one is pretty simple, just take out a file and remove about 1mm from a flange on the back of the lens.

BTW, this thread reminds me that I need to send my 40mm for a CLA as the focusing ring is very stiff...

LOL, maybe because of all the filed-off brass dust falling into the focus helicoid?:D :p

[EmilGil]

LOL, maybe because of all the filed-off brass dust falling into the focus helicoid?:D :p
If it only was that simple, my lens isn't modified! :p

I intend to have it done when I send it to be CLA'd.

[foto_fool]

...I need to send my 40mm for a CLA as the focusing ring is very stiff...

Tight focus ring was a characteristic of the Summicron-C right out of the box. Has anyone else sent theirs to Sherry or Don for this issue? Results?

BTW Ned - great picture. Enough to get me to re-consider selling mine (:D just kidding, Roland!) Anyway, it is the shooter as much as the lens.

- John

[ferider]

....Enough to get me to re-consider selling mine (:D just kidding, Roland!) ...

:)

[RayPA]

photo


BESSA R2M, Minolta Rokkor 40mm

That's got the look.

:)

[palec]

P.S. Anyone have photos with Rokkor 28mm ???

Rokkor 28mm with white spots:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2311/1843264775_0b2442f28a.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/_palec/1843264775/)

Back to topic, here's Summicron 40mm:
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1245/706977728_3d8d5ae69f.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/_palec/706977728/)

[borismach]

Really great shots! I thought the white spots ussually developed on this lens will be harmful to itd optical performance. How come there looks no impact on your photos...amazing!

:-)bm



Rokkor 28mm with white spots:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2311/1843264775_0b2442f28a.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/_palec/1843264775/)

Back to topic, here's Summicron 40mm:
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1245/706977728_3d8d5ae69f.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/_palec/706977728/)

[borismach]

I just got a Leitz Minolta CL set, with a Germany 40/2 Summicron-C for a few days. Just finished a roll of color neg and have it developed/printed. I find it really sharp...however the red color is a bit exaggerated. Overall it is an excellant lens.

Need to examine more on this lens.

Cheerz-bm

[palec]

Really great shots! I thought the white spots ussually developed on this lens will be harmful to itd optical performance. How come there looks no impact on your photos...amazing!

:-)bm

Of those two only the first photo is made with 28mm Rokkor, second is 40mm Summicron. The white spots (more precisely said small bubbles between elements) have impact on performance because of flare problem. If you can evade unsuitable light conditions, you can have nice lens for bargain price. Especially if you like the rough look:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/221/507360364_15826c4184.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/_palec/507360364/)
Neopan 400 pushed to 3200 helped, too, of course.

[Palaeoboy]

Tight focus ring was a characteristic of the Summicron-C right out of the box.

Yes this is true, I have handled many 40mm Summicrons and they all were very firm with their focus. If you prefer a lighter focus I have found the CLE Rokkors to be very light, it most likely has to do with the different cam designs.

The white spots (more precisely said small bubbles between elements)

Sorry but this is simply not true. The front glass of the Rokkor 28 is a single element. It does not touch any other elements so cannot be bubbling between elements. The spots start to form on the black paint covered edges of that front element. Because this is not in the optical path it doesn't effect image quality. When the white spots, which I believe to be crystal leaching out of the black paint, find their way on to the rear of the front element it will begin to impact on optical quality.

[palec]

Sorry but this is simply not true. The front glass of the Rokkor 28 is a single element. It does not touch any other elements so cannot be bubbling between elements. The spots start to form on the black paint covered edges of that front element. Because this is not in the optical path it doesn't effect image quality. When the white spots, which I believe to be crystal leaching out of the black paint, find their way on to the rear of the front element it will begin to impact on optical quality.

I haven't seen the lens disassembled only read about this issue - often mentioned as element separation. What I can confirm is that under first glass are small particles which look like bubbles, so you're probably right. i just wonder, why they look sheer if their origin is in black/white paint. Could be these are crystals from glue balsam?

[varjag]

Sorry but this is simply not true. The front glass of the Rokkor 28 is a single element. It does not touch any other elements so cannot be bubbling between elements. The spots start to form on the black paint covered edges of that front element. Because this is not in the optical path it doesn't effect image quality. When the white spots, which I believe to be crystal leaching out of the black paint, find their way on to the rear of the front element it will begin to impact on optical quality.
The "white spots" are sign of separating lens elements in the front group. Normally they are glued together with Canadian balm (or synthetic substitute), which can deteriorate with time.

[PetarDima]

Here we go! New shots with EFKE KB 400 ( pushed + 1 f-stop, 15 min in Microphen 1:1, 20 C, agitation 5sec. - every 30 sec. ). As usual, I have many
shots underexposed, funny many shots could be done with ISO 100, but I used
this film for hard test: daylight, night, low light. I must say again: I love this extra
sharp lens, but I need something wider - I think that some street shots just ask for
wide and close-up shooting! ... and EFKE, Efke is old school film, pure sadness ;)

All photos are without corrections, only resized.
Cheers, Vlad.


http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h272/PetarDima/EFKE%20KB%20400%20oktobar%202oo7/Birds.jpg



http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h272/PetarDima/EFKE%20KB%20400%20oktobar%202oo7/Comeback.jpg


http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h272/PetarDima/EFKE%20KB%20400%20oktobar%202oo7/Sitnice.jpg


http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h272/PetarDima/EFKE%20KB%20400%20oktobar%202oo7/Postokosto.jpg


http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h272/PetarDima/EFKE%20KB%20400%20oktobar%202oo7/JohanBelmondo.jpg


http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h272/PetarDima/EFKE%20KB%20400%20oktobar%202oo7/BobaHammer.jpg



http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h272/PetarDima/EFKE%20KB%20400%20oktobar%202oo7/Bulka.jpg

[varjag]

The "white spots" are sign of separating lens elements in the front group. Normally they are glued together with Canadian balm (or synthetic substitute), which can deteriorate with time.
After some more research, it appears there are 3 theories about the spots: separation, crystalline growth or coating defect. Hard to tell which one is correct without taking a lens apart..

[NB23]

Good stuff, Petar!

[PetarDima]

Thank you, I've tried to do my best :o

[Palaeoboy]

The "white spots" are sign of separating lens elements in the front group. Normally they are glued together with Canadian balm (or synthetic substitute), which can deteriorate with time.

After some more research, it appears there are 3 theories about the spots: separation, crystalline growth or coating defect. Hard to tell which one is correct without taking a lens apart..

As mentioned in my earlier post its impossible for it to be lens separation and deterioration of some cement or balsam as the front group only consists of only one element. (Please see attached lens diagram)


I haven't seen the lens disassembled only read about this issue - often mentioned as element separation. What I can confirm is that under first glass are small particles which look like bubbles, so you're probably right. i just wonder, why they look sheer if their origin is in black/white paint. Could be these are crystals from glue balsam?

The white spots start at the rim of the lens not in the optical path where it is coated in black paint to reduce internal refections. At this stage it appears as a ring of while spots. (You can see the flat sides in the lens diagram where the white spots begin.) The fact that it starts here at the sides means it cannot be a coating flaw (for only the spherical/optical side are coated) or glue from elements glued together as there are no other elements.

The crystal theory is the only valid one. The crystals leach out of black paint and begin to form around the edges. If not cleaned and allowed to continue they become so abundant they dislodge from the edges and find their way onto the inner surface of the front element. At this point they can etch into the coating. (this is where the faulty coating myth comes from) At this stage it does effect image quality and is irreversible in its damage.

The last myth with regards to the white spots is that if it hasn't happened now it never will. Not true either. One 28mm Rokkor I had only last year that showed no white spots at all and I took it out on a very hot Australian summer day, by the time I got home there was a ring of the white spots, clearly leached out by excessive heat. So keep those 28mm Rokkors cool boys and girls especially if you have only one or 2 spots appearing. If it hasn't progressed to the lens surface get the edge of the front element cleaned and repainted.

[Joe Brugger]

Interesting, Joel. The block diagram helps to understand it. I wish someone would post a photo of the spots.
A local dealer here had an M-Rokkor 28/2.8 for sale that had a very uniform circular donut pattern of small and smaller round dots, that looked like it could have been between elements 2&3 from the front -- sort of like the dot pattern on a CLE shutter but very symmetrical.
I'm still trying to work out what that might have been -- they offered to let me try the lens out but were asking far too much to consider buying it.

Thanks for the photos, Petar. They tell me much more than discussion and it's a fascinating look.

[nikola]

Vlad... love second from bottom.

[PetarDima]

Vlad... love second from bottom.

second from bottom? ... strange, some people said to me : It's too dark!
Funny that man is Boba Hammer, official distributor of Efke film for Serbia :)

[PetarDima]

Interesting, Joel. The block diagram helps to understand it. I wish someone would post a photo of the spots.
A local dealer here had an M-Rokkor 28/2.8 for sale that had a very uniform circular donut pattern of small and smaller round dots, that looked like it could have been between elements 2&3 from the front -- sort of like the dot pattern on a CLE shutter but very symmetrical.
I'm still trying to work out what that might have been -- they offered to let me try the lens out but were asking far too much to consider buying it.

Thanks for the photos, Petar. They tell me much more than discussion and it's a fascinating look.

thank's I hope that
I'll be able to shoot with something wider -
I've spent a lot of time to understand that RF photography gives best results with 50mm & wider

[Palaeoboy]

A local dealer here had an M-Rokkor 28/2.8 for sale that had a very uniform circular donut pattern of small and smaller round dots, that looked like it could have been between elements 2&3 from the front

Joe what you have observed is the classic case of white spots on the rim of the front element. Although it looks deep at the second and third element thats just an optical illusion as you gain a magnifying effect as you look through the front element itself. You can see the 2 flat sides on the lens diagram that angle each other at approx 120 degrees. This is where the white spots occur but remember that the front element is round and when you view the spots from the front they will appear as a perfect donut shape.

[hmarum]

I sold mine... :( (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sugu/435438090)

[NB23]

http://www.angelfire.com/ne2/nenadbojic/2007/Web-Montreal2007-4.jpg

[ferider]

Bumping this up to share two shots taken with a very late Summicron-C
that even seems multicoated. On Reala 100:

http://ferider.smugmug.com/photos/225597489-L.jpg

http://ferider.smugmug.com/photos/225597495-L.jpg

No complaints about the bokeh :)

Roland.

[monster]

This lense is small in size small in price but build amazing result


I just sold one, :-(

[endustry]

I sold one of these a couple years ago but recently re-acquired one. Both of mine have been stiff focusers but the picture quality is amazing. I currently use mine as the everyday walkaround lens on my MP. Even though it's already super compact, I make mine more so by unscrewing the rubber hood and using a generic metal 39mm screw-in cap. Together it's not much thicker than a Canon G9.

[NB23]

I sold one of these a couple years ago but recently re-acquired one. Both of mine have been stiff focusers but the picture quality is amazing. I currently use mine as the everyday walkaround lens on my MP. Even though it's already super compact, I make mine more so by unscrewing the rubber hood and using a generic metal 39mm screw-in cap. Together it's not much thicker than a Canon G9.

Would a regular screw-in 39mm UV filter work on this lens?

[sepiareverb]

A regular 39mm filter will cross thread, but be snug and stay put without damage.

[NB23]

A regular 39mm filter will cross thread, but be snug and stay put without damage.

Thanks for the info

[sepiareverb]

The elusive series ring is the 'correct' piece, but I think less than a dozen were ever made :D

[Krosya]

Not a Summicron, But M-Rokkor 40/2:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2123/2079811856_edf1e1dcfa.jpg

[Vincenzo Maielli]

Hi, dear friends. All your shots are very nice (Ned and Ferider particultarly). I also own a Summicron C 40 mm f/ 2 and i found that is an excellent performer. I love the 40 mm focal lenght.
Ciao.
Vincenzo

[NB23]

Hi, dear friends. All your shots are very nice (Ned and Ferider particultarly). I also own a Summicron C 40 mm f/ 2 and i found that is an excellent performer. I love the 40 mm focal lenght.
Ciao.
Vincenzo

So where are the pictures? ;) ;) ;)

[chikne]

Is it usable with a 40mm external finder?

[hans voralberg]

For 40mm you might as well use the internal one

[chikne]

Well, after spending the whole day shooting my rokkor, I found that I was having problems to make up the 40mm in my head.
It seems it could be easier with a lower magnification viewfinder though....

Well, Mike, my Noctilux thread is doing bad so let's hope it drives the Noctilux prices down ;) ;) ;)

Hey at least you won't get flamed for starting a thread about an expensive lens =)

[hans voralberg]

What body do you use ? I have a M3 and double up the thickness of the 50mm lines help :D Or shooting too much with it so you can immediately recognised its border ( I did it that way, waste quite a bit of film though)

[ferider]

I find M2 + 40 to be difficult. M3 and M6 + 40 work well.

Roland.

[dacaccia]

a yesterday's shot with my new RD-1 and Cron-C 40:

52690

[thafred]

OMG I totaly overlooked this thread! The Cron-C was my everyday lens for quite some time now.
It is my only Leica lens and I allways thought highly of it. however the focus action is very stiff and if I need to refocus it isn´t manageable in fast situations...that´s why I got a VC Nokton 40mm..still trying to figure out if the Nokton can hold a candle to the Cron-C (at 1.4 there´s no contest but at smaller apertures and medium distance I doubt the Cron-C can be bettered!)

I use the M6 and filed my Lens mount down to get the 35 Framelines. never had a problem with that combination. Now I shoot with my M4-2 and the FL fit nicely too!

my Flickr stream is full of Summicron-C shots but here are some of my faves:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1309/1460961738_5a9832db67.jpg
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1081/1409708554_f7e5b575fa.jpg
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1383/1083724331_f6a6a894aa.jpg
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1378/749917071_93f07cb503.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/227/520515754_34d07225ea.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/183/423247072_265bed99fb.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/133/360665342_6e179f99d2.jpg

the detail and rendition of tones is simply amazing IMHO.
Wich lens gives me the same rendering but better mechanics? guess I have to go for a summicron-M?! but which version? (VI?!?)

[chikne]

Nice shots!!!!!

What body do you use ? I have a M3 and double up the thickness of the 50mm lines help :D Or shooting too much with it so you can immediately recognised its border ( I did it that way, waste quite a bit of film though)

I use an M4 .

[chibaken]

Superb - a decent discussion about these lenses at last. I have the 40/2 Summicron-C and it's the only RFF lens I've ever used - it's outlasted 3 bodies and counting - a Leica CL, a Bessa R3A, and now it's on an M7 (hopefully the last body it will sit on now!), and it was the only lens I used on a recent round the world trip.

The only problem I have is that I find it hard to justify buying a 35mm or 50mm lens to complement it - I mean, is 5mm wider worth it?

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2249/1878911021_bc5b689080.jpg


http://farm1.static.flickr.com/188/414536570_957aaf46b2.jpg

[Palaeoboy]

the detail and rendition of tones is simply amazing IMHO.
Wich lens gives me the same rendering but better mechanics? guess I have to go for a summicron-M?! but which version? (VI?!?)

The Summicron-C's do have stiff focusing, it seems a trait of this lens. The CLE Rokkor which has a similar rendering and a conventional M cam have very light focus so you may like to switch to one of them instead.

You mentioned you had the 40mm Nokton already? Well in fact at f2 to 4 you should notice that the Nokton has greater resolution and contrast. I would give it a good try before swapping your Summicron for a CLE Rokkor.

[thafred]

thank you very much for the advice Joel!
I have the Nokton for a month now and haven´t had the chance to use as many fine (slow) films with it as with the cron (about 20 rolls with the nokton but mostly 400-1600, only two 50asa) so I´m still searching for the texture the cron gave me in the Nokton shots.
The handling of the nokton is perfect for me so I really hope you´re right and that it´s as excellent as the Cron (or even better you say! :-) )
Rokkors are very rare in Europe but I seriously think about them! the Cron-C´s size and weight with my home made Lens cap is soooo right!! the perfect lens for me except focus...I´ll have an eye on the next rokkor crossing my path :-)
thank you again
fred

p.s. just noticed you write CLE rokkor..do CL rokkors focus as stiff as the Cron-C?

[ferider]

The Summicron-C's do have stiff focusing, it seems a trait of this lens.


True. I just got a like new one, that was stiff since in the box and unused
since many years, and relubed it. Pretty straight forward if
anybody wants to know how ...

Roland.

[Palaeoboy]

p.s. just noticed you write CLE rokkor..do CL rokkors focus as stiff as the Cron-C?

Yes the first Rokkor has a firmer focus as well.

[photogdave]

My 40mm Summicron's feels pretty smooth without being too loose. Quite perfect really! Here's some images:

[enochRoot]

all of the 40 summicrons i have owned have also been very smooth and easy to focus.

it is one of my all time favorite lenses!!

these were all shot w/ a dark red filter. films were neopan 1600, t-max (i think 100), and konica infrared (just the building shot w/ black sky).

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2151/2087847171_bf2b96df53_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2194/2088634914_deb277a932_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2281/2088634588_8383fefacf_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2396/2087847327_0d65270aa7_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2419/2088635132_8bc43b3646_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2138/2088635046_57986f5fe2_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2041/2087847683_2a3202db6d_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2129/2087847599_a51cfb9221_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2037/2088635392_87c981ecc2_o.jpg

[Paul T.]

Great photos.

I will never part with my Summicron C. The best result have been with black and white on the CL or M3 - with which it works well if you use the whole VF frame. Didn't like it quite as much on the R-D1, as it's the FOV I really love, but all the same...

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e295/greenwichpaul/teddysdead.jpg

[Krosya]

Yes the first Rokkor has a firmer focus as well.

Not in my case - I have had both Rookors CL and CLE and they both focus the same - very smooth!

[Palaeoboy]

all of the 40 summicrons i have owned have also been very smooth and easy to focus.

The firmer focus of the Summicron over the CLE Rokkor should not be confused with being rough or unusable, in fact they focus smoothly and silently just in Comparison with the CLE Rokkor which if anything is a bit too light.

Not in my case - I have had both Rookors CL and CLE and they both focus the same - very smooth!

Again its not a question of not being smooth just the amount of effort required to focus both examples. If your CLE 40 is not lighter in its focus than your CL Rokkor then I suggest it need a simple lubrication. I have owned and handled dozens of examples and all the CLE examples were almost feather touch to focus, the CL version although smooth were always firmer. I quite prefer the firmer action actually but each to his own.

[NB23]

Been a long time since I posted something... Here is one from a month ago.
http://www.angelfire.com/ne2/nenadbojic/Web-20080408120944.jpg

[maddoc]

That looks very cold .... Is it taken same time as your snowstorm photos ? Great BW photo !!

BTW, my Summicron-C 40 is on the way :D:)

[alfcnka]

I have both the summicron and rokkor. But somehow i prefer the 40/2 Rokkor. Maybe it's the lens cap of the summicron. Here's some pics by the Rokkor.

[alfcnka]

somemore...

[chikne]

Alf, I like the landscape a lot!

[maddoc]

Alf, some very good BW photos you have there !! From the second series, I like the left one. Where was it taken ?

Cheers,

maddoc

[alfcnka]

and one more at a fish market....

[alfcnka]

The pics were taken in Li Jiang, China. Google "Li Jiang" and you will see more of it. An unbelievable old town.

[NB23]

Hey Doc!
I'm glad for you :-) The lens is so small it makes it worth to own the big Noctilux and switch for those moments where small is beautiful.
What happened to your Noctilux? Fixed, finally?

Alfcnka,
Great shots! I particularly like the B&W richness.

[maddoc]

Hi Ned !

Looking forward to use the Summicron-C and Noctilux together !!:) The Noctilux should be back end of this month (April 20th according to Leica) The focus mount was a little off (stronger vignetting on the right side) and some part of the hood had to be repaired. Hopefully it is still in calibration .... :o

Gabor

[digitalintrigue]

How similar is the rendering of the Summicron-C 40 to a Summicron 35?

I just acquired a 40 with a CL but haven't put it to use yet...

[NB23]

How similar is the rendering of the Summicron-C 40 to a Summicron 35?

I just acquired a 40 with a CL but haven't put it to use yet...

I personally think the 35 is in a class of its own above all the rest. The 40 is ok but it's not unique enough in its rendition. This being said, for the price it's the best Leica bargain... But I'm not sure one is into the Leica system for bargains. It's all about the image and the 35 is a strong ally.

[WoolenMammoth]

I shot the 40 for about a year as my main lens, more so for the focal length rather than any unique look this lens might have. I recently got a 35 and my initial impression of the cron was how similar it was to the 40. After reading the way people talk about it and laughing at the hideous pet name this lens has been awarded, I was expecting beams of light from the ark of the covenant to fly through this lens... Its sharper than the 40 wide open. Its higher contrast. Edge detail seems to me to be a little more delicate. Its a fully awesome lens. However, the 40 is not 4 times less the lens you might assume it to be based on the price. I think people pay tons of money for these things and then along with an awesome lens, purchase a fantasy about the thing as well. If the cron-c was available in a focal length that was available on a standard M body, this lens would be just as expensive as the next. The problem is, many dont want to deal with what for some is an odd focal length. The C is fully amazing and really not a whole lot lesser than the 35 cron4. It IS lesser, but these lenses are far more similar than I think a lot of people are willing to give them credit for. If I had to keep one it would be the 40, but Im glad I have access to the 35 now as well. When you consider the price of a 50 cron from the era, the 40c and the 35v4 the thought that comes to my mind is not that the C is a bargain but that the v4 is *really* expensive.

We all have our own opinions on these things. The 35v4 is a better lens but IMO just marginally so. The C has a really unique look to it but its a much flatter feel that the 35v4 which is just super sharp which tend to make pictures pop a bit more.

[NB23]

Mammoth,
I don't have any experience with the summicron 35. But I know the 35 summilux pre-asph is a special lens and is unmistakeable in its rendition.

[WoolenMammoth]

I cant comment on a 35lux, never used one. I was just addressing digitalintriugues question.

cheers!

[digitalintrigue]

Thanks Mammoth...I used to have a 35 v4, so I'm anxious to try out this 40 Summi-C to see if there are any rendering similarities. This one came to me modified to bring up the 35mm framelines.

[maddoc]

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3017/2441642689_83fb3f9393.jpg

Hexar + Summicron-C

[NB23]

Superb shot, great mood

[maddoc]

Thanks Ned !! :) Superb lens, the Summicron-C :D

[tomasis]

agree with ned :) good eye

that funny little detail is the road sign which made me smile. 40mm km/h :)

[Ken Ford]

Sorry to be redundant, time to shoot my 40 more!

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/data/500/Cars_of_the_Century.jpg

[maddoc]

@ tomasis: Thank you !! 40km/h is maximum speed here inside of towns, 50 km/h outside ... :eek:

@ Ken: That is a nice one !! The Summicron-C rocks :D

[NB23]

I just got my M8... And after testing all my lenses (digital makes it all so easy), I'm very pleased to see my 40mm summicron outperforming many others. It is very sharp and I'm surprised!

[maddoc]

Nice Erik :), but no 1 and 3 have a quite high contrast (or my monitor is off ...)

Ned, the Summicron-C turns into a 53mm FoV lens on the M8, if my calculation is right. How do you like the narrower FoV of the M8 (effect of the 1.33 smaller sensor size) compared to your film Leica cameras ? Any change in your lens setup foreseeable ?

[NB23]

Doc,

I don't know. The M8 leaves me cold. Great tool and all, and I fully appreciate the engineering and I can understand why it is so expensive. It's just that film is unbeatable and I can't find my mojo with digital. I thought long and hard about this and my simple conclusion is, after all, very simple: A good film image is a long process. It's like giving birth. There is a thought, a gestation process, a delivery. It's all carefully done.
Digital is a garbage process. I mean hey, the first thing I did was to test all my lewnses for sharpness. How stupid is that.

The reason why I went for the M8 was to capture quick, fast images of my newborn son and wife and family. That's for them. But for my own personal pleasure, the most important, I shoot film. This is why I will travel around the world with my film Ms and leave the M8 behind.

[maddoc]

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2305/2484628939_ee1da154fb.jpg

Hexar RF / Kodak E100VG

[NB23]

Niice! Alien's bath?

[maddoc]

Alien's (snow)-bath !! :D

[edodo]

If I may say that shooting family stuff is better on film, cause it will last for sure many generations while digital stuff surely won't make it that long!

[maddoc]

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3282/2498935096_c6a769db6b.jpg

[Maxapple88]

If I may say that shooting family stuff is better on film, cause it will last for sure many generations while digital stuff surely won't make it that long!

Although the material might still be there, people might simply not know how to handle film anymore in close future.

[SergioGuerra]

On my first test film with summicron-C:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2260/2493180662_f8c26d6213.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2116/2490946390_b13d4eee4a.jpg

Regards :)

[maddoc]

http://www.pbase.com/gsamj/image/98242068.jpg

Delta400 + Rodinal 1:50

[Pherdinand]

hm,that's pretty grainy and muddy for 400 iso film...what happened?
or is it cropped a lot?

[NB23]

Neat shots!
Gabor, I like the last one. Has depth...

Here's one of mine. A repost but still shot with a 40mm summicron-C. This lens is astonishing on the M8. I didn't expect it to be that sharp. It has a character of its own but not as much as other Leitz lenses. But it's compact!

http://www.angelfire.com/ne2/nenadbojic/M8/Web-L1000149.jpg

[maddoc]

hm,that's pretty grainy and muddy for 400 iso film...what happened?
or is it cropped a lot?

It is not cropped and I used Rodinal to get some grain. While scanning I increased the contrast to make the grain more visible.

[maddoc]

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2220/2626228389_37c275fa6b.jpg