Zorki 1 curtains same as others?

[fidget]

Hi,
I'm going to run a full service on my Zorki 1. I don't like the curtains, they look dry and stiff, showing what looks like some cracks in places and loosing some of their backing where they run on the shields. So the curtains are to be changed also. Before I strip it for this, I assume that the curtains which fit the rest of the range of say FEDs (2,3,4 etc) are suitable for the Zorki 1, being the right size? Anyone confirm this?
The curtains I have for this job have the bare metal laths rather than the nice material covered originals, but this maybe doesn't matter.

Dave...

[wolves3012]

I'm not actually sure but I think some differences exist. Whether it's enough to matter I don't know. Jay Javier would be the man to give you the answer. The metal crimped laths don't matter. Jay believes that shutters are quieter with sewn or glued laths, something that makes sense in a way.

However, saying that, I really can't say that my examples vary due to it, and I do have several of each. I have, for instance, a Zorki 5 (sewn curtains) that is louder than a Zorki 6 (crimped). Both have been CLAd and are running smoothly too, so that isn't the cause. I have a Zorki 1 (quiet) and a Zorki 2C (louder) that both have sewn curtains. No logic to it!

Good luck anyway - what a fun job.

[ZorkiKat]

If you plan to change the shutters in your Zorki-1, try to find plain shutter material, rather than the ready-made ones with crimped laths and complete ribbons. If the ribbons are still intact in your Zorki's shutter retain them and rip out the old curtains instead. Your replacement/repair work will be much simplified. No need to find where to glue the ribbons and long curtain on the main drum. Locating where the ends should be on the drum when using 100% new, materials is probably one of the more difficult tasks in shutter repair.

Wolves is right about the crimped vs wrapped laths. They don't seem to make sense in as far as smooth or quiet operation is concerned.

Most of the shutter repair done (when these cameras were in active service) would have involved total replacement. So some FED-1 or Zorki-1 would be found with crimped laths rather than the 'proper' wrap-around types. Many of those I found with such tend to run with more noise and less ease than those with the original wrap-around types.

The crimped laths came with the latter cameras- these had wider shutter channels with different body castings. So in a FED-2 or a Zorki-6, a crimped lath would probably work as well as the traditional wrap-around.

Not all crimped laths are made the same. A couple of Zorki-1 which I serviced last month came with such laths. One camera had a shutter which had to be tensed about 50% more than usual (ie, about 7 turns on the tensioning spring instead of the usual 4) to allow the shutter to function. The other would not allow proper firing at 1/500, regardless of tensioning or any form of shutter cleaning or adjustment. It was only when the crimped laths of these cameras were removed and replaced with wrap-around types that the shutters functioned properly, and with less tensioning.

It is often how much tensioning is done on the shutter springs which determine smoothness or quietness of movement- assuming that the rest of the works is clean and properly oiled.

Some of the crimped laths I've seen are wider and thicker than others. The thinner and narrow ones should work in a Zorki-1. The ready-made shutters also come in different widths- FED shutters, and many of the complete, ready made replacement material- tend to be narrower than about a milimeter or so.
Using a narrower blind than needed in a Zorki-1 can cause light to breach through the sides of the shutter since the material isn't wide enough to cover the film gate and lap with the baffle to form a tighter light-proof breach.

Jay

[Blank288]

I can't be as specific as Jay, but I replaced the worn curtains on my Z-1 some time ago for new FSU 'crimped-lath' examples. Indeed the width appeared not exactly the same, IIRC the new curtains were quite a bit smaller than the old ones. Nevertheless I gave it a try and now my Z-1 works great - no light leaks and no extensive tensioning needed.

[fidget]

Hmm, thanks for th extensive reply. Not quite as clear cut as I though then. I will start with a careful stripdown, then look at the extent of whats needed.

Thanks, Dave...