Got my FSU's

[Tom hicks]

They came in the mail today, and in a nut shell they are as clean as the pictures. all glass is very clean , no scratches on any front or rear, on the 3 35mm cameras the lens look to be new . First impressions I like the Zorki and the Fed 3 both feel good and smooth. Fed 5 C , it's Ok built Quality is lower. All appear to be CLA'ed. No dust or dirt anywear that I can see without tearing them down . I ran a roll of BW400CN through the Zorki, here is what I got , maybe you all can tell me what you see.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ZORKI-4-USSR-35mm-LEICA-COPY-RF-CAMERA-UNIQUE-RARE-TYPE_W0QQitemZ160125551590QQihZ006QQcategoryZ15234 QQcmdZViewItem (http://cgi.ebay.com/ZORKI-4-USSR-35mm-LEICA-COPY-RF-CAMERA-UNIQUE-RARE-TYPE_W0QQitemZ160125551590QQihZ006QQcategoryZ15234 QQcmdZViewItem)


http://cgi.ebay.com/CHAIKA-2-USSR-35-mm-HALF-FRAME-CAMERA-WITH-INDUSTAR-69_W0QQitemZ160146973927QQihZ006QQcategoryZ67380QQ cmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting (http://cgi.ebay.com/CHAIKA-2-USSR-35-mm-HALF-FRAME-CAMERA-WITH-INDUSTAR-69_W0QQitemZ160146973927QQihZ006QQcategoryZ67380QQ cmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting)

http://cgi.ebay.com/FED-3-USSR-35-mm-RUSSIAN-LEICA-COPY-RF-CAMERA-M39-EXCEL_W0QQitemZ160146964900QQihZ006QQcategoryZ1523 4QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting (http://cgi.ebay.com/FED-3-USSR-35-mm-RUSSIAN-LEICA-COPY-RF-CAMERA-M39-EXCEL_W0QQitemZ160146964900QQihZ006QQcategoryZ1523 4QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=160147712468&ssPa geName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=006 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=160147712468&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=006) __________________

[Tom hicks]

Here are two more , on one you will see some lens flare? or something?

There also appears to be some gradient in the light from left to right . Dont' know what causes that. I don't really like the BW400CN from what little I have shot of it , But it is the only kind I have ever shot .

[robin a]

Looks like you've got a keeper,nice shots.............Robin

[cmedin]

What ebay (I'm guessing) seller did you use? I still need a Zorki C in good shape...

[Tom hicks]

What ebay (I'm guessing) seller did you use? I still need a Zorki C in good shape...
I posted links to what I got and the seller above in the opening statement.

[TVphotog]

maybe you all can tell me what you see.


I see some rocks, a truck, a bench, some playground stuff and a tree:D.

No really, the first three shots look great exposure and flare-wise. The flare is most likely a result of the J-12. They are notorious for flare. Best bet is to find a hood that will work. I can not give you that information as I don't know where to find them. The gradient that you speak of is a shutter issue most likely. You don't happen to remember the settings for that photo. Most likely, it is capping. The second curtain is catching up with the first and not allowing a full exposure over the entire frame. If you feel up to it, it is a simple fix. First, familiarize yourself with the Zorki 4/4K CLA thread. You will need to partially disassemble the camera to fix. Then read the shutter tension thread that is stickied as well. The first couple of times that you read those threads, it may seem daunting. Do not lose your heart. It is much simpler than it seems and can be completed in an hour or so. Heck, sometimes I do it just for fun:D Although, keep careful notes as sometimes even the most asute of us can misplace a part or two. Reference the 'Zorki 4 rewind woes' thread for example:bang:

[Tom hicks]

I see some rocks, a truck, a bench, some playground stuff and a tree:D.

No really, the first three shots look great exposure and flare-wise. The flare is most likely a result of the J-12. They are notorious for flare. Best bet is to find a hood that will work. I can not give you that information as I don't know where to find them. The gradient that you speak of is a shutter issue most likely. You don't happen to remember the settings for that photo. Most likely, it is capping. The second curtain is catching up with the first and not allowing a full exposure over the entire frame. If you feel up to it, it is a simple fix. First, familiarize yourself with the Zorki 4/4K CLA thread. You will need to partially disassemble the camera to fix. Then read the shutter tension thread that is stickied as well. The first couple of times that you read those threads, it may seem daunting. Do not lose your heart. It is much simpler than it seems and can be completed in an hour or so. Heck, sometimes I do it just for fun:D Although, keep careful notes as sometimes even the most asute of us can misplace a part or two. Reference the 'Zorki 4 rewind woes' thread for example:bang:

Thanks for the Info Paul, The 1st shot , of the Street landscape was at f 16 1/50 sec

the 2nd shot of the truck was f5.6 at 1/500, the 3rd shot of the bench was f 8 at 1/250

the shot of the playground was f 4 at 1/1000 and the tree shot was ? but I was facing in the partly cloudy sky at about 3:00 PM .

I'll take better notes next time and try to duplicate the gradient effect.

[TVphotog]

The flare is definitely from the lens. You would see that with a J-8 or J-3. The gradient, since it get worse the higher the speed is most likely shutter capping. You won't really notice it with the shorter shutter speeds. I take all that back. It would appear that the first shutter is travelling faster than the second. some one else correct me if I am wrong, but the darker part is on the right, so it would be on the left hand side of the camera. That would infer that the the shutter gap is lengthening as it goes across the frame???? Either way, check the CLA thread and then the shutter tension thread for fixes.

[wolves3012]

I can see the gradation on most of your shots. You need to increase the second blind's tension or decrease the first's, as appropriate. The sticky on setting tension will show you how. It's a bit tedious but not difficult.

Before you do anything, try and establish which blind is at fault. Fire the shutter on B, pressing and releasing fairly quickly. There should be a kind of "clip-clop" sound. The first blind should be quite snappy, with the second sounding slightly lazier. From this sound you can probably take a good guess at which tension to alter. It's worth making a note of the adjustments you make, so you can go back to square one and start again if you mess it up.