View Full Version : Olympus Trip 35: The Leica of the Point and Shoots?
Tigersight
08-23-2007, 17:51
I recently bought an Olympus Trip 35 (I will not tell you right now how little I paid for it or you might be prejudiced against it) and was so stunned by its steller performance and razor sharp lens that I bought a second one as a back up in case anything went wrong with the first one. That's how impressed I am with it.
It requires no battery as it has a selenium cell which always works, even in very low light. The camera is so light, intuitive, unobtrusive and worry free that it's become my constant companion. I invite you to look at my photos here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8995523@N08/ and apologize to the hosts of this fine site for not having posted them here yet.
I bought one of my Trips for $12.50 from an auction house in New Mexico and it came in almost mint condition with warrantee card, user manual, and really nice soft black kidglove leather carrying bag blind embossed "Olympus Trip 35." This kind of deal on this camera is not all that rare. My every day Trip was bought for $13.50 and it works like a new camera. It was made in 1976 while the almost mint one was made in 1967 or 1968.
I invite you all to investigate this camera as it is really a lot of fun to use and, like my lizardskin-covered Trip, gets some real positive attention.
I hope to get mine tomorrow.
Tom Harrell
08-27-2007, 04:07
I like the looks of the camera and probably will buy one as soon as I find one in good to excellent shape! I have a little Oly ECR 35 right now and would enjoy trying one like you have as well.
I liked your pictures, thanks for sharing!
Tom
charjohncarter
08-27-2007, 06:43
I just bought one on impluse, I wanted to try it out, along with a few others I recently purchased. I have not received it yet, but I hope it is as good as you say. Is the scale focus a problem? I assume a reseal will be in order. Japanese cameras from this period and type all seem to need light leak help.
markinlondon
08-27-2007, 08:06
The Trip 35 is a little gem. When they came out they were advertised in the UK by David Bailey. The ad's catchphrase "Who d'you think you are, David Bailey?" is still in use by those with congenital humour deficiencies at the sight of someone with a camera. I keep searching the charity shops and market stalls in vain.
Tigersight
08-27-2007, 08:36
No, the scale focus is NOT a problem! It's a blessing. I am a sharp focus nut. And, because of this, eschewed the the use of cameras like the Trip 35 for years. But I was wrong. This camera is very, very sharp. In fact, I will go so far as to say that it takes the sharpest pictures of any of my seven cameras. I've long fussed and fiddled with both SLR TTL focussing and rangefinder focusing trying to get the subject "perfectly focused" before tripping the shutter. But with the Trip you have zone focus. And, as incredible as it may seem, the camera is never out of focus unless you make a gross mistake like leaving it set on single person portrait when you take a landscape shot.
I just could never get it through my head that a zone focus camera could take razor sharp photos at all distances. And this is especially relevant now with my trifocal gradiated lenses that fight with the rangefinders and TTL focusing systems. If you wear glasses this camera is a delight to use.
Regarding the light leaks: when I bought my first Trip 35 it arrived without any light seals at all. I took a whole roll of film that way and it turned out beautifully (truly the magic camera in every respect!). But, then I did it right and bought a foam seal kit from Jon Goodman (Jon_Goodman@yahoo.com) that came with full instructions and tool making the whole job very easy indeed. Also, Jon is very helpful and makes himself available for all questions via email. The kit has generous supplies of various kinds of foam and I've done two Trip 35 with it as well as sealing the door of another camera and most of the kit is still unused. It is EASY to refoam a Trip. It is also EASY to reskin a Trip and I got my lizard skin from cameraleather.com. Taking off the old skin and putting on the new one took me 15 minutes.
A WORD OF CAUTION: The Trip 35 uses a selenium cell that surrounds the lens to power the internal light meter which makes the decision as to exposure (when set at "A"). It is a wonderful cell that works in even the lowest light and will last forever IF YOU KEEP IT COVERED FROM THE LIGHT WHEN NOT IN USE! If you buy a Trip with no lens cap or no camera case then you are taking a chance that the selenium cell will be DOA. The first Trip I bought on eBay was shown with a lens cap and it has a good selenium cell. So, too, does my second eBay purchase as it was pictured with its leather case, so I knew it would probably be alright and it was. The first Trip 35 I paid $13.50 for the second I got for $12.50, both on eBay. But be very careful of eBay as it is riddled with shysters and people who have no conception whatsoever of the word "mint."
I hope this has answered all of your questions. If you have more you can ask here or go to Flickrs' Trip 35 Group: http://www.flickr.com/groups/olympustrip35/
Happy shooting.
charjohncarter
08-27-2007, 08:49
CrisPlatt and Tigersight, thanks for the guidance, I'll let you know how the TRIP does. I'm only to bifocals, but I still can't focus at times. I even bought an old AutoFocus Pentax body (that looks like a spaceship) just to use with wide angle lenses because I have so much trouble 'getting it right.'
Seems like the Trip is a perennial favorite around here; everyone who gets one winds up raving about it, myself included. I've gotten some great 11"x14" prints from mine. I just wish it wasn't limited to ISO 400 and slower.
sweathog
08-27-2007, 12:27
I bought one a while back for 99p (about $2) off the bay, made the postage back because it came with another camera that I then sold. It is in ratty condition, the ASA and scale dials don't lock into place properly, so I have to keep checking them. However, when it works, it is lovely. I've shot a lot with this camera, it was my carry around for a long time. I've got a fair few shots on flickr (http://www.flickr.com/photos/tomswanboroughnilson/sets/72157600169108826/) and another roll is getting dropped off tomorrow.
I recently passed one up for £3, I regretted it for a long time, so I've just bought two for £5 (including postage) on the bay, can't wait for those to arrive. Then I'm going to take my first one apart, see if I can sort it out.
What am I trying to say?
The Olympus Trip 35 is a brilliant little camera, well worth getting (but don't all rush to the bay, keep them cheap).
zuikologist
08-27-2007, 12:56
The TRIP was my first camera before SLRs. Carried it everywhere - a tough and very able camera with a very nice lens.
Tigersight: I like the Carmen portrait - lovely light.
I received mine Friday, and put 2 rolls through it by Saturday night. It is a great camera,in many ways some sort of "ultimate" in that it's so simple, easy to use, but makes incredible pictures.
Scale focus a problem? Absolutely not. I handed it to a friend who was helping document a construction project, set it to "group"-everything perfect.
Heck, it even works with my Pentax flash! And very, very quiet. It may be the ultimate-and cheapest-street camera around.
Some years ago I bought one of these at a local thrift shop. It then lay in its leather case in my drawer for a couple of years after that while I was still shooting with a digital P&S. It was only after reading more into photography that I found these old cameras to have quite a charm.
Fortunately when I dug out my camera the selenium cell was still working well. Stuffed some film into it and took it to the streets. Didn't make any good pictures but the camera and its scale focus definitely works well. Pretty good when shooting from the hip also. Ultimately I sold it (together with a few other old cameras) and I really shouldn't have.
Now, some 12 months after selling all my film cameras I've come full circle to hunt down a single film camera to shoot with alongside a digital setup. Old cameras really have a charm...
I had a couple, but needed to clear out my camera cupboard. I gave one to a skaeboarding nut, he tells me it's brilliant preceisely because it's zone focus - perfect when somebody's flying over your head - and because there's no shutter lag at all.
The other one went to joefriday I think - tried it yet Joe??
No, the scale focus is NOT a problem! It's a blessing. ..........I just could never get it through my head that a zone focus camera could take razor sharp photos at all distances. And this is especially relevant now with my trifocal gradiated lenses that fight with the rangefinders and TTL focusing systems. If you wear glasses this camera is a delight to use.
Happy shooting.
Hi,
i can testify from my own that the selenium cell still works wonderfully.
Secondly the idea of using the zone focus method for glasses wearing folks is quite interesting.
Thirdly, sadly my evaluation of short distances.....
But from Tiger I can conclude this camera is aperture priority programed, which is good for still subjects.
Cheers,
Ruben
Well, wit only two shutter speeds, it's hard to say which is the priority, eh?
Hi aad, Which are the two ?
Hi Tigersight,
a) I gave a look to my old Trip 35, and can add that perhaps zone focusing, once you get used to, is faster than manual focusing with a rf or slr.
b) Why don't you move this whole thread to the Olympus rf subforum, with the help of the moderators ?
Cheers,
Ruben
jorgef2002
09-22-2007, 15:20
Hello Tiger eye where did you get the leather cover for the trip 35 ? thank you.
jorgef2002
izziebears
09-22-2007, 16:48
My first camera (1960's) was a Kodak Motormatic with zone focus that took great pictures. It had three click stops for close, group, and distance.
Hi aad, Which are the two ?
According to the manual I found at http://zuserver2.star.ucl.ac.uk/~rwesson/esif/om-sif/camhistory/manuals/olympustrip.pdf, the two shutter speeds are 1/40 and 1/200. When you use flash it sets the speed to 1/40 and allows you to change the aperture.
charjohncarter
09-22-2007, 18:13
Maybe the lens, but that is it.
See this: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=70325&limit=recent
Yes, Ruben, as mentioned the 2 speeds are 1/40 and 1/200. I can hear the difference!
Thanks, now for a question:
Why not using a hood to try to limit the area being light-metered ?
Has anyone tryied it ?
Cheers,
Ruben
Sort of defeats the spirit. Besides, I think you can lock exposure by half-pressing the shutter release while pointing at an appropriate area.
Sort of defeats the spirit. ..........
What do you mean ?
I guess one way to prevent under exposure from too much light/sky in the frame would be to use your finger to cover part of the selenium meter around the lens to make the camera think that there is less light and therefore give more exposure. Exposure compensation at it's simplest!
But what I am looking for is not compensating the exposure for narrowing the area of exposure. Some sort of "spot" :) metering, because I meet at the streets a lot of mixed sources of light, very often with high backlights.
BTW, I am speaking about a Hoya standard hood, that as most of you know they are cilyndrical shaped, not conical.
Cheers,
Ruben
Sorry Ruben I was not addressing your question with my observation.
For your question: the selenium meter has these bumps that act as lenses that gather light from directly in front of the camera, though certainly not spot metering. The meter was designed this way. If you restrict light from hitting the meter by using a lens hood for instance, it may cause over exposure of the scene.
Also, the "spirit" of the camera is one of simplicity and compactness.
Providing you're not using 25 or 400 ISO film, you are blessed with at least one stop of adjustment either direction by using the film-speed ring. Take the film speed down to increase the exposure and up to decrease the exposure.
Tigersight
09-25-2007, 13:37
JorgeF, I got the lizard skin form cameraleather.com
FrankS, your idea is very good and, in fact, done regularly by Trip 35 aficionados.
Regarding the discussion as to the two speeds of the Trip 1/40 and 1/200, it may sound like it doesn't have much flexibility in different lighting situations but that is certainly not so (see my photos at the site given at the beginning of the thread).
I am no longer a fussbudget. I take photos with the Trip set at either "A" (for almost all situations) or I put it on f2.8 in low light when the red flag ("not enough light") pops up and doesn't let me trip the shutter. I frame the shot and push the shutter (carefully....it might be at 1/40!). I never take more than one shot of anything! That's how sure I am of this camera. The light meter is phenomenal, better even than what I have on my OM-1n.
The Trip 35 is one of those strange cases in life where, when you look at something on paper, it just doesn't match the performance that you actually get because the different componants all just come together in some inexplicable synergistic way to produce totally beautiful photos. Who would ever think a humble 4-element lens could do what it does? My photo, "Zeta" was taken in the dark with the Trip set at f2.8 and handheld for cri-eye! Who would ever think that it would turn out so perfectly?! It doesn't seem possible.
nightfly
09-25-2007, 14:26
Anyone have an extra they want to get rid of?
PM me.
I'm not giving up mine anytime soon...
Tigersight
09-25-2007, 18:43
Right now there is a very rare black Trip 35 up for bid on eBay--22hours left. It's pricy as far as Trips go, but it looks to be good, as the seller says the red flag activates which means the selenium cell is ok.
If I weren't interested in other gear, I'd bid on that ... the black Trips are dead sexy!
Here's another Trip shot which I made expressly to test out sharpness, colour rendering, etc.
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1133/1441124036_eaa6c95358_o.jpg
Very impressive, Trius. I look at shots like that and end up wondering just how much real improvemnet we've made in 40 years. Perhaps the best modern lenses are more flare-resistant and contrasty, but are they more so than Leica and Zeiss glass of a generation ago?
John: Thanks for the compliment. As I said, it was just a test shot, though I did try to compose it so that it was at least somewhat visually interesting.
When I see top-flight lenses from Leica, Zeiss & CV, I say, "yeah, we have progressed." But how much? The point to me is that the older stuff is STILL way more than capable of good results than we normally can produce as photographers. Certainly a lot of the digi-SLR glass that is sold today is no better than the four-element Zuiko (Tessar design?) on the Trip. You generally have to get the "pro level" zoom lenses from the majors, not the kit lenses, to get any advantage. And then what have you got? An unweildy piece of plastic that gives most people more questions ("How far should I zoom in? How do I choose an f-stop? What IS an f-stop?") than they can answer before the photo is gone. Or they're too far away to create an image with impact. "If your pictures aren't good enough, you're not close enough."
Earl
'Trip Gas' ... I have just put a bid on a trip I spotted on Aust eBay!
Do I need another small scale focus camera ... probably not ... how long is a piece of string? :bang: :p
Apparently long enough for a trip...
Apparently long enough for a trip...
I blame you totally .. that pic is impressive! :p
Saying from highschool: I may be cheap, but I'm not easy.
How many Trips is one too many...been so impressed with my first (a silver-buttoned version) that I've just bid on and won another, but this one is a later black-buttoned version. I've also seen a website selling restored examples with varying colours of leatherette. Been tempted to get a pink one for the Missis, not that she even needs one!
Frank: Speak for yourself. I'm normally easy. With a good cab franc, I'm so easy it's pathetic.
Cabernet leather for my Trip ... Hmmmmm.
The Trip 35 is not for me.
That's my conclusion after making some 15 shots. There are two problems, one is mine, the other built in in the camera. My problem, as i suspected, I consistently setting the distances for less than it should be.
Rectifying this mistake is not an unsurmountable issue, but it is a small project and there is another related small project - to become as good as to do it without thinking. Because if you start thinking about the correct distance, then better start thinking about the speed on a Canonet.
Fine, not impossible. But there is another issue for which the Trip is not built to solve: photographing at low light, a mall for example. Then the camera will be using the widest apertures, f/2.8, and here within 15 feet there is no room for mercy. Although it is remarkable that at ISO 400, not a single underexposure in the mall.
So thanks for the trip and the tips, this is not the camera for me to carry now as permanent companion, but another project for the future.
Cheers,
Ruben
next in my menu: Yashica GX.
Everyone is different Ruben, no worries. Lots of folks like the Yashica Electros for example, but they're not for me. Thank goodness we have choices!
I think that some of the older Konica cameras come close to Leica quality, like the Konica IIIA or IIIM. Even the II and III have dynamite lenses and solid metal built.
NickTrop
09-29-2007, 20:25
I think that some of the older Konica cameras come close to Leica quality, like the Konica IIIA or IIIM. Even the II and III have dynamite lenses and solid metal built.
Yes. Even the Konica Auto S2. Don't own one though I recommended one to a friend who bought it. It's a beauty and they're quite affordable. Although the build quality of the Konica Auto S3 isn't nearly what it was in the early 60's, and it probably was built by Cosina, man does that thing have a lens...
Yes. Even the Konica Auto S2. Don't own one though I recommended one to a friend who bought it. It's a beauty and they're quite affordable. Although the build quality of the Konica Auto S3 isn't nearly what it was in the early 60's, and it probably was built by Cosina, man does that thing have a lens...
All Konica RF cameras have good lenses.
The Auto S3 looks as if it were built cheaply, but its lens has an excellent reputation. The S2 or the S are bigger and heavier.
Ruben, sorry the Trip is not what you expected, but in all fairness to the guys who designed it, I'm pretty sure they didn't have in mind someone using it to photograph the insides of shopping malls. It is a pitty though that they just couldn't have included a coupled rangefinder, for those who wanted the same convenience of a batteryless, take-anywhere camera but with accurate focussing. Perhaps they judged that including an RF on the Trip would affect the sales of the RC.
Dr. Strangelove
10-02-2007, 05:23
Ruben, sorry the Trip is not what you expected, but in all fairness to the guys who designed it, I'm pretty sure they didn't have in mind someone using it to photograph the insides of shopping malls. It is a pitty though that they just couldn't have included a coupled rangefinder, for those who wanted the same convenience of a batteryless, take-anywhere camera but with accurate focussing. Perhaps they judged that including an RF on the Trip would affect the sales of the RC.
The Trip 35 was a simple "almost P&S" camera. It was designed to be relatively cheap and therefore it could not have expensive parts like a coupled rangefinder. Without a rangefinder you could have scale focus, zone focus or fixed focus. Fixed focus means at best so-so image quality at all ranges except at the one fixed range and is not really at all usable with fast lenses. Scale focusing is even more difficult to use than zone focusing, so Olympus chose the latter.
In fact zone focus was the only sensible choice for an inexpensive P&S cameras with a fast lens before AF became affordable enough. In the 1980s zone focusing fell out of favor, since research showed that ordinary P&S users found it too difficult. At the same time ASA/ISO 200 films became better, which made fixed focus cameras with f/4 or slower lenses much more usable and versatile than before. The cheapest models in the Trip series were also fixed foxus after the Trip 35 was discontinued.
One of the last cheap zone focus cameras in production was in fact also an Olympus, the AM-100 introduced in 1987. It was essentially the same camera as its somewhat more expensive cousine the AF-10, but with a zone focusing lens.
The Trip 35 was a simple "almost P&S" camera. It was designed to be relatively cheap and therefore it could not have expensive parts like a coupled rangefinder. Without a rangefinder you could have scale focus, zone focus or fixed focus. Fixed focus means at best so-so image quality at all ranges except at the one fixed range and is not really at all usable with fast lenses. Scale focusing is even more difficult to use than zone focusing, so Olympus chose the latter.
In fact zone focus was the only sensible choice for an inexpensive P&S cameras with a fast lens before AF became affordable enough....
Hi Doc,
I am not knowledgeable of the difference between scale focus and zone focus, and perhaps this may be of some help to ventilate my model. Could you explain the concept using the Trip 35 as example ?
Thanks,
Ruben
Dr. Strangelove
10-02-2007, 09:10
Hi Doc,
I am not knowledgeable of the difference between scale focus and zone focus, and perhaps this may be of some help to ventilate my model. Could you explain the concept using the Trip 35 as example ?
Thanks,
Ruben
The Trip 35 has four focus settings or focusing zones, marked with half a person (1 meter), two persons (1.5 meters), three (or group of) persons (3 meters) and mountain (infinity) symbols. In zone focusing you estimate the approximate range of the main subject and set the focus zone accordingly. For people, which are the primary subjects for most P&S users, the symbols give a very good hint of the correct zone. For other subjects you will just have to estimate the range and set the zone accordingly.
In scale focusing camera the focusing ring rotates freely without any stops from closest focusing distance of the lens to infinity, just like it would on a rangefinder or manual focus SLR camera. The only difference is that you have to estimate the range to the main subject or use an external rangefinder. When using a scale focus camera without an external rangefinder, most people try to use smaller apertures in order to increase the depth of field and minimize the chances of the main subject being out of focus in case of incorrect estimation. This is often combined with hyperfocal technique. Of course all this means that using scale focus cameras for handheld low light photography is very difficult and requires fast films at least.
The expression "zone focusing" is indeed sometimes used with scale focus or even rangefinder cameras. Typically it means a technique where you do not even try to use the rangefinder for every shot, but you just try to keep the main subjects (and background if desired) within the "zone of focus" or depth of field. Usually it involves using relatively small apertures, typically f/5.6 and smaller. Here is a nice article about hyperfocal technique and zone focusing:
http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/marine/569/rusrngfdrs/focusing.html
I found my Trip 35 in an Op-Shop (thrift store?) last week, paid AUD$10 for camera and flash. I had 0% expectation regarding its picture quality.
Heres one of the test shots I took with it, used super el-cheapo Focal (K-Mart Australia house brand) 400 film. Then had it developed at same K-Mart by some pimply faced girl who looks like she would have trouble working a kettle let alone a film processing machine.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2269/1625412645_2dbd8a71bb_o.jpg
Trip 35 is the ultimate street camera for me. It's unobtrusive, easy to adjust, and very, very reliable in automatic mode. I take it everywhere now. Mine came with a Hoya Skylight filter and a Starblitz 160A manual+automatic flash.
I brought it to a hot air balloon festival last weekend and got a lot of curious glances despite being in a sea of very very intimidating DSLRs with very very long lenses.
Just noticed this thread and thought i'd agree with everyone's positive comments about the mighty little Olympus Trip 35!
Here are some photos i took with one of my 3 Trip's (The light was terribly harsh) :
http://www.flickr.com/photos/onrelas/sets/72157603817077553/
I just have so much fun using them :)
vBulletin® v3.6.8, Copyright ©2000-2013, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.