View Full Version : olympus RC (NOT OM!!!!) question
i am having some situation compelling me to use the Oly RC without hood. Using any lens without hood for me is a major heressy I never ever did. I also take into account that some times I will be using my left hand to shadow the lens. Fine, but there also will be a lot of pics in which i will not .
I am talking about pics within big factory interiors with lights reflecting from everywhere.
What are my chances of image survival ?
Tri-X at 200
and only 4 days ago I was disdaining the RC in the past thread "olympux 35rc a good compact rf!":bang: Soy un cabessadura.
I would run some tests if you have time to see if different apertures make a difference. Get a couple of young helpers with flashlights to shine them in to the lens from different angles.
Sorry I could not be more helpful.
Wear a hat with a brim. The RC is so short the shadow of the hat is usually enough shade. The coatings on the RC are quite good.
I use mine in bright sunlight without a hood all the time, mostly because I don't have a hood for it. Never had a problem.
Ian, thanks. Highly inspiring at a moment I am frigthened to death.
I guess you developed a discipline to avoid touching the glass surface.
Trius ? Ferider ? Any0ne else would like to support Ian ?
You will touch the glass...
If you look inside the RC it was designed for use without a hood it is 100% baffles, an internal lens hood.
Id use a filter or step ring to allow you to drop the camera as you will otherwise destroy the filter threads.
.......If you look inside the RC it was designed for use without a hood it is 100% baffles, an internal lens hood.
I don't follow, Do you mean that the internal "hoods" actually kill the undesired reflections ? And the RC is the only camera with this primitive/effective system ?
I don't worry about dropping the camera, since i did develope the self discipline of always having a strap, and never ever pick a camera without wristing the strap first.
All the knife edges stop any out of frame light, bouncing internally and getting on the film. But you will still get flare from bubbles, finger prints, etc.
Most of the Olys have lots of internal baffling as they assumed that a lens hood was too complicated for most shooters.
Even one step ring will help a bit, two or three, hmmm
noel, i've never heard that before, where did you come by this information?
I looked inside my RD, RC and XA4, thought for a long time, and said ooooh. Otherwise why would they have baffled the cameras so well? The RD is just amazing inside.
I'll give you they cannot have assumed many people would try to make a hood for the XA series.
Finding an olympus-fitting filter, hood, or ring can be a quite a challenge, some odd 43.5 size that only seems to be made by oly. I wonder if that impossible filter size was the inspiration for the lovely, unique filter threads on the leica CL 40/2 lens.
I have a stock oly RC hood- it clamps on the outside of the filter ring, and can be turned around to store on the camera.
The CL 40/2 is a series 5.5 thread?
Hey I did not know the hood reversed... gone to play with a hood...
i have an original oly uv filter and hood on my rc.
noel, i'm gonna look at mine when i get home later tonight...you got me all curious now.
Your Canon rfdr had a uniform rectangular aperature but even the little RC is progressively larger knife edges, but the RD well you need to look inside one.
........Most of the Olys have lots of internal baffling as they assumed that a lens hood was too complicated for most shooters.
Even one step ring will help a bit, two or three, hmmm
Or/and, they assumed a lens hood will hurt the flat shape of the camera, which is exactly why i will be using the camera without a hood, as i am in need of such flatness.
Thanks, I have mooved forwards. Now, are you recommending a step ring for further helping the internal hoods, first and foremost, of for taking care of the filter thread in case of camera drop ?
Both at same time I'd want you to damage a screw off ring not the lens threads.
A step ring helps with finger prints...
A step ring would also help with filters in the future?
Many thanks Noel, again you share from your special insights.
I do have my arrangement for filters or cap or hood. It consists in a thick tape around the external chrome side of the thread, and a glassless filter 49mm mounted on the tape by pressure. This way I can mount on the 49 thread, either filters, hoods or caps.
Good to know hoods are not needed since they hurt the field of vision of the yellow patch, which in the RC is already small.
Many thanks again,
Ruben: I can't help much, as I haven't used my RC all that much. :( I do have a hood, but it is in that ubiquitous place called "somewhere" ... i.e., I can't seem to find it right now. I hope I can find it soon and make some test photos with and and without the hood.
I've also used my RC in bright direct sunlight with no problems. I never used a hood on it.
Well, there is not only the practical experience but the theory too.
You pals that never used a hood on the RC, are giving me, another pal that never used a lens without hood, the surprise of the year.
Hi Ruben, I'm new here, and now have two of the 35RC's, luv them! I bought a hood from an ebay retailer for close to $10 with shipping, didn't know about the
baffles thing, durn. Anyhoo, here's a pic in a music/cellular phone store's foyer
with cross light from windows and fluorscent lighting 16 feet overhead. This was
taken before I got the hood (haven't used it yet).
and converted to greyscale:
This is using cheap Czech color film Arista ISO 200 and scanned on my Epson 2450, not the best for 35mm.
I do not use a hood for the RC. It seems fine without. The lens is resilient to flare and imho has good contrast and resolution.
Thanks, Zuikologist, looks like I have a hood to offer on ebay...;)
The f/ ring should only really be annoying because of the click stops, which can be a problem...
I slew the focus so I dont hit the end stop and then hold the serrations on the f/ ring with finger nails and slew the f/ (and the focus turns as well), then reset the focus.
No finger nails no f/ ring movement... an early Elmar (or clone) with a hood is more difficult... grow nails manicure like you were to play plucked instrument.
And previous post is accurate (thanks) the hood can be reversed - it has cut outs to clear the flash controls!
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