FrankS and hand-metering incident/reflective light

[thomasw_]

Hello,

I have been rethinking my sensitivity to exposures. This thread (http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11120&highlight=reading+incident+reflective+light) from a few years ago started by FrankS prompted my rethinking.

I have gone through stages where I used a hand meter, then progressed to the stage where I thought I understood exposures enough to get by only using the Sunny 16 rule of thumb and my understanding of reflective and incidental light; but lately I am doubting myself because I missed a few shots through exposure errors on my last two or three rolls. Granted I have been using some unfamiliar film and a new lens, but I can't excuse myself because it didn't just happen on the first roll or for lack of thought; what I had reasoned to work just didn't.

So I ask with humility:> 1. has anyone ever gone through this doubt? 2. has anyone any exposure rules of thumb or tips? 3. has anyone ever gone back to using a hand-held meter when they thought they didn't need it? 4. has anyone any recommendations on current small, accurate hand-held light meters?

Respectfully,
Thomas

[raid]

Thomas,

I did a lot of reading about exposure for slide film when I was using only SLR cameras. As you know, slide film is very sensitive to overexposure and results in muddy photos for underexposure. I chose to use a spotmeter for all my photography, and I have been doing this until today. You learn more about controlling exposures by using multiple spotmeter readings. I "scan" each scene with the spotmeter, returning to the central focus point in the image. After some practice, it becomes very easy and highly accurate to get back what you envisioned you should be getting back at the time of taking the photo.

Many photographers here will advise you to use an incident meter, but I have become used to my Pentax digital spotmeter to give me what I need in information. I chose my SLR cameras to have built-in spotmeters whenever I could.

Good luck.

Raid

[J J Kapsberger]

Thomas,

You learn more about controlling exposures by using multiple spotmeter readings. I "scan" each scene with the spotmeter, returning to the central focus point in the image.

Raid

I agree. But knowing what to take a reflectance meter reading of is a difficult trick to master. Often when I judge something to be of average reflectance, I'm surprised to learn that I'm off by a stop. For slide shooting, such a mistake can spell disaster. For negatives--well, I suppose the exposure latitude can save the day (as long as enough shadow and highlight information is captured) and the printing process is where the photographer's memory of the scene can be recreated.

To me, knowing how far to deviate from average exposure (e.g, to know how many stops should be added to a bright part of the scene to create a true highlight instead of something middle gray) seems to be the most important metering technique to master.

I guess it's a good idea to bracket when the situation allows.

[shadowfox]

but lately I am doubting myself because I missed a few shots through exposure errors on my last two or three rolls. Granted I have been using some unfamiliar film and a new lens, but I can't excuse myself because it didn't just happen on the first roll or for lack of thought; what I had reasoned to work just didn't.

So I ask with humility:> 1. has anyone ever gone through this doubt? 2. has anyone any exposure rules of thumb or tips? 3. has anyone ever gone back to using a hand-held meter when they thought they didn't need it? 4. has anyone any recommendations on current small, accurate hand-held light meters?

Respectfully,
Thomas

Hi Thomas, first of all, missing a few shots bcause of exposure error is better than my usual test roll of a new camera *with* meters :)

On the questions:
1. I have more control over the exposures when I'm using the Sunny16 rule. I just lost a couple of frames due to underexposure because I'm experimenting with one camera's Auto exposure which got fooled by shady subject and bright peripheral lighting. When I use the rule, I became constantly aware of the lighting condition on my subject, not the surrounding, so I automatically compensate in my head. I don't know why this sounds more intuitive to me than relying on the meter.

2. I don't use my handheld meter enough to go back to it :)

3. I use an old selenium handheld (very small) that I got as part of an outfit from an older photographer. You may want to visit camera shows, they always have lots of old, cheap handheld meters like mine. Just be sure to bring a camera with meter that you trust to test them. I tested mine against my DSLR and so far it's quite reliable.

[sepiareverb]

I have two meters, a Sekonic 398 and a Pentax Spot meter. I have only recently gotten the spot meter after working on a LF project where the light was too dim for the Sekonic to read. I've always been a fan of the incident metering, even as a LF shooter, figuring that from camera position one can get the meter head into the same enough light as the subject nearly all the time. The incident meter is in my mind closer to that 'sunny16' method, as it gives you a direct indication of the brightness of the light. When I moved out west and found the light so different, I carried around the light meter even when not shooting for a while to get a feel for light- it was the contrast in the high-altitude sun vs shadows that I was having trouble with. The metering exercise helped me pin down exposure & development. Incident reading is quick and simple, and seems less likely to draw attention to the photographer than spot metering.

The 398 is still available new, and there are likely many of them around used, it's been made for a long time. Uses no batteries, just the selenium cell, and can be adjusted easily.

[aad]

Currently I'm leaving my camera at f11 and a shutter speed of 200 while running a roll of BW400CN, only using the camera during daylight. When I get through I'll let you know how it went.

[Never Satisfied]

Hi Thomas, I tried the sunny 16 rule a few years ago and I failed. I purchased a Sekonic L508, a combination spot and incident meter, not cheap, but brilliant. Having the ability to either a zooming spot or incident is fantastic and I think that slowing down a little to make a meter reading is a good thing. I know film is cheap, but nothing burns more than duffing up the exposure on a Pulitzer winner. CV make a great little clip on meter that gets a great rating. Cheers Andrew.

[pvdhaar]

... Granted I have been using some unfamiliar film and a new lens, but I can't excuse myself because it didn't just happen on the first roll or for lack of thought; what I had reasoned to work just didn't.
...
Don't underestimate how a different film and lens can respond differently to the same exposure. Different dynamic range (film) and contrast (lens) may conspire to an exposure that doesn't work out for some situations and subjects..

I'd say spend some more time with the film/lens combination and learn to recognise where you need to adapt.

[payasam]

Thomas, for long years I did without a meter because I had none. Then I used an SLR with a TTL meter: although for colour slide film I would whenever possible use the "poor man's incident meter", a reading off the palm of a hand. I now find myself laughably dependent on a hand held meter -- to the extent that often I do not even try to set speed and aperture even when those should be obvious.

[shadowfox]

I'd say spend some more time with the film/lens combination and learn to recognise where you need to adapt.

One of these days I'd hang up the glove of testing new cameras and do the above with only a few remaining favorites. :rolleyes:

[FrankS]

Back when I wrote that, I was using an M2 and M3. Now in addition, I have an M6 and Hexar RF, both with built in meters, that I use most frequently. I've also got that little CVmeter2.

[Never Satisfied]

Hi Frank, give it up and tell us about that little VC meter; is it as good as they say? Cheers Andrew.

[FrankS]

Yes it is IMO. I've kept it over a few Leica MR meters I had because it is smaller and easier to use. It's cool to be able to take a meter reading and set the camera's controls without raising the camera to your eye, as you have to do with a built in meter.

[shadowfox]

Hmmm, I probably should consider this CV meter ...

[FrankS]

It's a bit pricey but worth it. So is a 50mm external finder for all your old squinty viewfinder cameras.

[sepiareverb]

...squinty...

Now there's a great adjective!:D