View Full Version : Hexar AF shutter release - repair in the UK?
After 2 happy years with my Hexar AF, I've started experiencing problems with the shutter release. In my case, it will prefocus but then not take, or it will take without prefocusing. Very frustrating.
So I've read that this is a relatively common occurrence, and seen the Silvergrain site (although the pictures don't seem to load). I'd like to get this fixed, or even replace the shutter button switch, but am too ham-fisted to do this myself. Does anyone know someone in the UK who might be able to repair this?
andersju
06-03-2007, 08:24
The Silvergrain page (http://www.silvergrain.org/wiki/Konica_Hexar#Get_to_the_switch) mentions an Alps switch, SKRN-PA. I found it here (http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=688-SKRNPA). Does anyone here have experience replacing the Hexar's switch?
You may want to try this before you go full hog on replacing the switch: disassemble the top and the switch too (into like three parts I think...silvergrain has the info) and then clean off the metal contact with ronsonol and q-tip and maybe even an eraser to get rid of any corrosion. This might just make your shutter snappy again.
Although it would be nice ot have confirmation that replacing the switch is do-able (for us) it might be a little risky (for you!) so this less invasive procedure may keep your camera snappy for longer.
Thanks for your responses.
I'm trying to decide whether I have the courage to open the thing up and clean the sensor as described by dreilly. I'm nervous about getting the camera apart, but twice as nervous about putting it back together again.
I did mail Konica and got a standard email back telling me that they've withdrawn from the photography market now. Have also mailed one other repair outfit who have said they won't do anything to a Hexar that might require parts :/
Ravinder, there's quite a good chance I would decide it's worth the risk to replace the switch, assuming you felt confident about having a go, and didn't mind me imposing on your time and energy. I need a bit more time to think about it first though.
Cheers,
Simon.
By the way, I found the images to go with the Silvergrain Wiki (doesn't seem to be linked correctly).
Have a look here http://silvergrain.org/g2/v/Wiki+Figures/KonicaHexarAFblack/
If anybody would like to think about ordering switches to have on hand, I would like to participate and commit to buying at least 2. The part is the real problem....with a copy of the silvergrain info, replacing it would be a matter of simply finding someone with the right tools (and a good bit of talent and confidence). Does anybody feel like giving it a shot? GH
I attempted today to communicate with the Manufacturer of the original switches.Unfortunately, even the English translation breaks down on the website when it comes to pricing / payment and contact info.
Does anyone have access to a person who speaks Japanese AND would be kind enough to give us a helping hand?
I feel that I filled out the form correctly and even hit what I guessed was the "send" button, but I have absolutely no idea if it went through or not as all the following info reverted to Japanese. I know that the silvergrain instructions deal with repairing / cleaning the original switch, but I would rest far easier if I simply had some new and exact replacements on hand....even if they would probably have to be cleaned anyway before inserting into the Hexar.
The second best option would be to buy the ALPS switch to have on hand before they stop making them as well)
GH (gharrington@mindspring.com (gharrington@mindspring.com))
What website did you use to contact the manufacturer? I'll see if I can get a friend to look at it.
Also, do we know the part number of the Misaki switch?
Ugh and now the link the gallery of photos from the Wiki isn't working any more :(
giellaleafapmu
06-08-2007, 08:15
Thanks for your responses.
I'm trying to decide whether I have the courage to open the thing up and clean the sensor as described by dreilly. I'm nervous about getting the camera apart, but twice as nervous about putting it back together again.
I am NOT and ingeneer but I have always liked to open any kind of stuff and can give you the following advice.
(1) Use proper tools. A bad or inadequate skrewdriver can demage parts irreversibly even if you do all properly otherwise.
(2) Allow you a lot of time.
(3) Do not try to operate the camera while it is open unless you know what you are doing.
(4) Think that if a man made it another man can fix it.
(5) Think that you might lose a camera but you will surely gain knowledge no matter what happens...
After all a camera is not too bad, for one there are not parts in high tension like, say, in a tube amplifier or fast moving parts like in a motorbyke engine...
GLF
mercedes_sl1970
06-14-2007, 18:40
Hi there
Was wondering if anyone has done the cleaning of the switch and whether you actually need to desolder and remove the switch? That is, is it possible to dismantle the switch in situ and clean the contacts without taking it off the circuit board. The Silvergrain instructions are a little unclear on this and in my reading imply that you need to remove the switch.
Thanks
Andrew
Hi Andrew,
I found another Silvergrain link with both text and pictures at http://www.silvergrain.org/wiki/Konica_Hexar#Get_to_the_switch
From that page...
Where do you obtain a replacement part?
You don't. You unsolder the old part out of the camera, take it apart, clean it or fix it, and put it back on. Based on my experience and user feedback sent to me from the visitors of this page, the problem associated with erratic shutter button is completely fixable by disassembly and cleaning of the electric contacts inside the switch unit. I've repaired a few Hexars this way and none of them have recurring problems.
mercedes_sl1970
06-14-2007, 23:33
Hi Andrew,
I found another Silvergrain link with both text and pictures at http://www.silvergrain.org/wiki/Konica_Hexar#Get_to_the_switch
From that page...
Groan... I hate soldering/desoldering!! Hmm.
Thanks for the reference.
Andrew
mercedes_sl1970
06-24-2007, 21:00
Hi
Just to let you know that it is possible to gently pry the switch apart without removing it from the circuit board. Have just cleaned the contacts, put the camera back together again and tested it out. It appears to be working fine - in fact better than before which was the whole point.
Thanks
Andrew
Cool, thanks for letting us know. I've done nothing at all with mine so far as I've been busy (holidays and so on). I need to work up the nerve...
normclarke
06-24-2007, 22:52
Simon,
Be carefull, email:cameraworkshop@tiscali.co.uk who may be able to help you. If you are only moderately competant with tools it can get out of hand. I have dabbled for more than 50years and am still learning. If you decide to go ahead the quality of your tools is of the utmost importance! I can recommend the above contact being quick and reasonably priced if you take the sane man's route.
Cheers,
normclarke
mercedes_sl1970
06-25-2007, 05:06
Simon,
Be carefull, email:cameraworkshop@tiscali.co.uk who may be able to help you. If you are only moderately competant with tools it can get out of hand. I have dabbled for more than 50years and am still learning. If you decide to go ahead the quality of your tools is of the utmost importance! I can recommend the above contact being quick and reasonably priced if you take the sane man's route.
Cheers,
normclarke
Normclarke - couldn't agree with you more. I once managed to destroy a working Minolta Himatic after the "simple and quick" clean of the viewfinder and rangefinder soon degenerated into a host of other problems. You would think I would have learnt but then attempted something similar with an Olympus XA which I only just managed to save. Not the most pleasant of experiences... Oh yes, correct tools are essential!
Andrew
Hi
Just to let you know that it is possible to gently pry the switch apart without removing it from the circuit board. Have just cleaned the contacts, put the camera back together again and tested it out. It appears to be working fine - in fact better than before which was the whole point.
Thanks
Andrew
Bumping this up. Just fixed my backup AF that I got cheap from ebay
last week doing what Andrew described. Cleaned the disassembled switch
with goop-off and a rubber eraser.
Another thing that I had to clean were the contacts of the aperture dial/switch,
since the aperture sometimes opened/closed erratically. You might
want to check yours, it's not as obvious a problem as the lazy shutter button.
Roland.
Ok, just so I understand this correctly - could someone confirm that's possible to clean all the typicaly sticky parts of the shutter without having to cut/solder anything? If so, that is GREAT news.
Yes. Andy. In fact, I'll clean your camera if you like.
Roland.
Yes. Andy. In fact, I'll clean your camera if you like.
Roland. YES!!! and thank you! I was going to PM you but was a bit shy about asking :o PM on the way :D
dawgfoto
12-21-2007, 09:23
Hi, I just bought a Hexar a few month ago for quite a reasonable price.
It arrived with the known erratic shutter and a faulty aperture selector, which would only switch between aperture 2 and 22. The latter luckily solved by finding a bad SMD solder connection. I then cleaned the shutter with thinner. Happy about the fully functioning camera, the shutter shutter went bad a few weeks later. Set me back quite a bit. This time I bent the feets of this little metal plate, which makes the contact and the click to get better contact. Didn't work well, in fact i needed to put some paperboard between the plate and the boss and now have a very soft switch withnearly no pressure point. At all I just want that damn switch replaced. I really like the camera but I can't handle the unreliable switch. Has anyone ever got the ALPS switch. I found the biggest problem to be is getting one rather than replacing the switch.
Anybody knows a distributor, which sells single items and is located in europe.
Mouser would bill 35 Dollar for shipping.
Martin
Try http://mouser.com/ they should have an equivanlent part.
Forgive me to warm up an old thread, but I hope that some of the folks who provided valueable info here are still around ...
I had my "new" Hexar AF CLAed, and at first sight everything looks ok. The old problems were fixed and my camera almost looks like new. But now, the camera has picked up the wiggly aperture blades syndrome. Before I send my camera back to the shop (it would need to travel from one end of Germany to another, wasting precious time), I want to find out whether I might be able to fix it myself:
I presume the culprit is the control dia PCB sitting on top of the shutter release switch (http://www.silvergrain.org/wiki/Konica_Hexar#Get_to_the_switch, scroll up one picture) - it must be the large rotary coding switch on the left that probably has some contaminated contacts.
Has anyone of you ever disassembled this switch? Any precautions or special tools necessary?
What cleaning agent would you suggest to cure the switch of erratic behavior, or should pressurized air be enough?
I see that the PCB can only be taken off the rest of the camera by opening the flexible PCB connector on the right. Can I just pull it out or is there some locking mechanism I first need to open?Your kind help is greatly appreciated.
enthusiast65
02-21-2010, 13:46
Fixing the shutter problem is very easy to do.
Follow the disassembly instructions on Ryuji Suzuki's Silvergrain website.
This includes the 5 external screws, and the 3 short screws holding the aperture ring, shutter mechanism and exposure comp functions PCB in place.
Rest the camera on its back, using a very fine bladed screwdriver, prise the metal top enclosure off the Misaki shutter switch assembly, taking care not to lose the tiny black button when the metal enclosure comes away. A firm action required to do this for the first time, as on mine at least it was on tight. Prise from the front, at the leading edge where the metal enclosure is secured onto the plastic mounting below the plastic flange that holds it in place.
Using a cotton bud, and ether, rubbing alcohol, Permaclean record cleaner or similar, wipe the corrosion off the contacts of the switch assembly plastic base, as well as the loose internal metal contact part that acts as a trampoline. With the domed side facing upwards, check the 'legs' of this piece are all bent the same way (they appear to invert through use causing many of the problems with AF focus and intermittent operation. If they do not appear to stand up the domed metal part equally all round, bend gently at the noticeable fold and using tweezers, away from the domed side, so that it forms a perfect 'trampoline' for the black button. Reassemble, snapping back on the metal switch assembly top cover, and reassemble the camera.
Follow Ryuji's advice to ensure the hot shoe wire slip into the gap that stops them getting squashed by the top cover of the camera as you gently put it back. Please remember to do this whole operation with the battery removed.
I am no repair expert, have no experience mending delicate electronics, but this job was easy for me to do - all without desoldering the switch assembly.
Audioslave
04-16-2010, 01:06
Fixing the shutter problem is very easy to do.
Follow the disassembly instructions on Ryuji Suzuki's Silvergrain website.
This includes the 5 external screws, and the 3 short screws holding the aperture ring, shutter mechanism and exposure comp functions PCB in place.
Rest the camera on its back, using a very fine bladed screwdriver, prise the metal top enclosure off the Misaki shutter switch assembly, taking care not to lose the tiny black button when the metal enclosure comes away. A firm action required to do this for the first time, as on mine at least it was on tight. Prise from the front, at the leading edge where the metal enclosure is secured onto the plastic mounting below the plastic flange that holds it in place.
Using a cotton bud, and ether, rubbing alcohol, Permaclean record cleaner or similar, wipe the corrosion off the contacts of the switch assembly plastic base, as well as the loose internal metal contact part that acts as a trampoline. With the domed side facing upwards, check the 'legs' of this piece are all bent the same way (they appear to invert through use causing many of the problems with AF focus and intermittent operation. If they do not appear to stand up the domed metal part equally all round, bend gently at the noticeable fold and using tweezers, away from the domed side, so that it forms a perfect 'trampoline' for the black button. Reassemble, snapping back on the metal switch assembly top cover, and reassemble the camera.
Follow Ryuji's advice to ensure the hot shoe wire slip into the gap that stops them getting squashed by the top cover of the camera as you gently put it back. Please remember to do this whole operation with the battery removed.
I am no repair expert, have no experience mending delicate electronics, but this job was easy for me to do - all without desoldering the switch assembly.
Thanks for your post, helped me to fix my Hexar Silver with the erratic shutter problem.
Took me about 20min to fix, really easy.
I just did the in-situ switch cleaning procedure (my AF worked always, but shutter only released 1/2 of the time). It took about 30 mins and was very easy. The camera works perfectly now.
The procedure was described well 2 posts above by enthusiast65 and the photos at Ryuji Suzuki's Silvergrain website. Read and follow their instructions carefully.
All I would add is the following: use an x-acto craft knife to lift the metal cover off the switch from the bottom left. The metal cover snaps on to tabs on the side of the plastic housing so once it's clear, the cover is free to be lifted off. I used a magnifying glass to place the x-acto point between the metal cover and plastic housing while ensuring i didn't mark the flexible PCB the switch is attached to.
You do NOT have to de-solder anything.
Now I can use this camera for street shooting again!!
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