Introduce us to your vintage exposure meter

[doitashimash1te]

Here's my (1955?) General Electric PR-1, which I still use on a regular basis since I bought it in the late 90's. I guess this is a selenium meter, right? It amazes me that it still works after more than 50 years. I guess it hasn't seen that much light before I started using it.

http://www.xs4all.nl/%7Eacben/GE.jpg

[rbiemer]

I have a few(really, only three or four!:D ) but the battery for my digi is flat. I'll post something after I replace that.
A kodalux II, and Argus clip on meter(M44? can't recall), and my newest the Sverdlovsk 4.
I like those GE meters but haven't come across one yet that's still working
Rob

[lynn]

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/241/516424642_418918cc5d_o.jpg

This - I've posted it before, mind - is my favourite old meter...and it's surprisingly accurate!

[sepiareverb]

... - I've posted it before, mind - is my favourite old meter...and it's surprisingly accurate!

Where would one find one of these? Seems like something everyone should have, or at least I should have!

[Ash]

I only have my Leningrad meters.

I wouldn't mind that old bee-type meter

[Steve Bellayr]

I just picked up the PR-1, also. The darned thing was right on target.

[Wimpler]

I use a minolta viewmeter 9, see here: http://met.open.ac.uk/group/cpv/photo/Viewmeter9.html

Before I used a gossen variosix (if I remember correctly), but one of the LEDs stopped working making a lot harder to use.

[aizan]

i use two weston master iv meters. at least i used to. they both died a couple months after purchase. :(

[amateriat]

Redefining "vintage", perhaps...

This, I believe, was the first meter to use a silicon cell. Other than this, it's old-school all the way...sort of like sticking a modern V8 in a Studebaker Avanti.
(Whoops...already been done.). Anyway, it works, I like it, it was cheap (50 from you-know-where), and I have almost all the attachments, including spot and
enlarger tchotchkes.

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=45632&stc=1&d=1180297131

- Barrett

[Biggles]

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=45633&stc=1&d=1180298098 http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=45634&stc=1&d=1180298007

Late 1940s Weston Master II, Commonwealth military issue. A ten-dollar eBay find. Mr. George Milton at Quality Light Metrics gave it the spa treatment a couple of years ago; found me a manual and an Invercone for it, as well. Good as new.

I carry it as a backup to the CL's internal meter when I'm on photo-vacations.

[trittium]

I mostly use these

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/33/40328094_3a08196710_o.jpg

[doitashimash1te]

I mostly use these


Not what I would call "vintage" ;-)

[amateriat]

Not what I would call "vintage" ;-)
Word. And check those beads of sweat...bet he's working in half-stops there. :D


- Barrett

[landsknechte]

I haven't had much luck finding working vintage light meters, but I recently picked up a GE DW-58 meter in good shape with a WW2 "sold through the army exchange" data plate on the back.

[vha]

These are the one I use at the moment, think I might have a gossen luna something in a drawer somewhere too . . but not sure about that.

Use the leicameter on a weekly basis with the M3ds, and it works excellent with 400 delta or a kodak bw400cn, the Weston meter I got from a friend who got it form his father which happened to find it some place in northern england in a 2nd hand store ..
anyway I think it work, just have to learn how to read it.

Sounds like I have a project for the summer.

vha

[Biggles]

...the Weston meter... I think it work, just have to learn how to read it.



There's a manual here: http://www.westonmaster.com/

[Keith]

:D :D :D

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g196/wheelie52/RFF%20Storage/Brain.png

[Trawlerman]

I got a really nice WESTON MASTER IV from eBay for £40 recently.
I've checked it against my Samsung DSLR and it seems to be pretty accurate.

Even though I felt that with a meterless cam such as the FED-3a that I use, I don't really use it. I prefer to use the Sunny-16 rule as it's just easier.

[bsdunek]

My favorite is the Westen Master series. Problem is the selinium cell. What I use the most is a Gossen Lunisix. This has never failed me, although one has to have a good battery!

[colyn]

My favorite is the Weston

45678

[heliographer]

I have an old Spectra that a friend let me have for about $25. It's a bit big, but it is a dream to use. Hold the button down and it reads out in F stops directly, with a big swinging needle. Probably one of the most sensibly designed meters I've used. I use a digital Polaris now, though, which is also nice, with the added benefit of doing flash. I also have a Sekonic Twinmate L-208 which is very handy. But really, that Spectra is a piece of work.

[350D_user]

Half of my film-based equipment...:
45712

The other half is the perma-attached Industar-22 lens, and rolls of FP4+. :)
If only I could be bothered in getting the Weston 650 repaired.

[erikhaugsby]

Half of my film-based equipment...:

Oh, man. What would you take in trade for it? :D

[cpborello]

My vintage exposure meters? Leica M5 and Leica CL.

[350D_user]

Oh, man. What would you take in trade for it? :D
Heh... it's a setup I'm not trading. :)

[Joao]

Hello: Three classics: a Leningrad 2 (left) , an Optek (center) and a Leningrad 4 (right). The Leningrad 4 is moribond,but there is another one on the way...
Regards
Joao

[Stephanie Brim]

I'm going to pick up a Gossen Luna Pro soon because I'm going to be shooting in some really, REALLY low light and I'm wanting to push some film well beyond the limit of rationality. I have a Sekonic that I use regularly when I can't quite figure the Sunny 16.

[dexdog]

I have a couple that I use regularly- a Weston Ranger and a 1950's vintage Zeiss Ikon Ikophot selenium meter. The Weston has been overhauled by George Milton, and works great, while the Zeiss meter reads about one stop too low. I like the Weston a lot, but it is just huge.

[owenreading]

I have an original bakelite Weston Master, the 1939 model. It still works perfectly having seen very little service for a few decades (damn these newfangled meters *on* cameras) and is very useful for low light shots when my FED-4's meter gives up.

[-vin-]

Where would one find one of these? Seems like something everyone should have, or at least I should have!
http://cgi.ebay.it/VINTAGE-JOHNSON-STANDARD-EXPOSURE-METER-CALCULATOR_W0QQitemZ220116013004QQihZ012QQcategory Z4702QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD2VQQcmdZViewItem

here is one! :)

[-vin-]

by the way... between the ones you posted here, which ones work?

[350D_user]

by the way... between the ones you posted here, which ones work?
The Weston V works, and is accurate. Sadly the 650 has a failed selenium cell, and does nothing at all.

[350D_user]

I'm not sure what filmspeed this thing's configured to, but...

45934

It even has the "2/6" price scribbled on its packaging. :)

[louisb]

I bought this Weston from its original owner over e-Bay at the end of last year. I often use it when metering flowers as I can get in close and get a good reading. I only wish my R-D1's shutter speeds were the same as on the meter but I usually choose the meter reading and the closest speed and I've never been let down.

Every serious photographer should have one of these superbly built, precision instruments, imho. Especially as you can usually pick them up on e-bay for a pittance.

45938

[amateriat]

I'm not sure what filmspeed this thing's configured to, but...

45934

It even has the "2/6" price scribbled on its packaging. :)
Old enough to still be priced in shillings? ;)

Somewhere, I have two of the last (at least known to me) Kodak Pocket Guides made (the very last one with a tech-y silver/chrome cover, which I bought less than fifteen years ago) with several calculators within its pages. Well worth seeking out.


- Barrett

[350D_user]

Old enough to still be priced in shillings? ;)
It is... I'm not. ;)

Reading that 1947 almanac, Johnsons have a several-page advert thing... the standard exposure calculator is listed in there.
Somewhere, I have two of the last (at least known to me) Kodak Pocket Guides made (the very last one with a tech-y silver/chrome cover, which I bought less than fifteen years ago) with several calculators within its pages. Well worth seeking out.
I'll keep a look out, thanks.

[vha]

There's a manual here: http://www.westonmaster.com/

Been reading at the page a few times, and finally I think I got the meter, but it looks like its even older than i thought .. or they made the model for a long time :)
After clicking around i´v found the model , did not see it first because i did not think it was the first model they made.

Anyway it looks like I´v found a new source of GAS, I mean the Master V or the Euro master looks great, would be a excellent company for my Rolleiflex or M3ds :D
Already found a few on e**y in UK.

Vidar.

Edit : I forgot the question, is the weston meters quite like the Sekonic L-398A III something , having a strong magnet inside ?, had one of those 5 years ago and killed a swatch watch by placing them in the bag together. After that the swatch lost 5 minutes a hour . ..

[ChrisN]

Dexdog mentioned the Zeiss Ikon Ikophot - I like it for the simplicity of the dial and ease of use.

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=46021&d=1181346656

My other favourite is the Pentax Spotmeter-V.

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=46022&d=1181346675

[charjohncarter]

OK, here is mine. I bought it new in 1971 and I'm not sure if you asked me what it was I could tell you. I use it all the time. It is still right on. Sorry about the image, I took it with my K10d on Anti-Shake at f2.0 at 1/4 second.

[350D_user]

OK, here is mine. I bought it new in 1971 and I'm not sure if you asked me what it was I could tell you. I use it all the time. It is still right on. Sorry about the image, I took it with my K10d on Anti-Shake at f2.0 at 1/4 second.
Not bad. The Weston V I have seems to be ok, but I can't tell if it's accurate as b+w exposure doesn't need to be an exact thing. http://www.megatron.co.uk seem to be able to supply replacement selenium cells in Weston meters, fwiw.

Apologising for a photo taken with "anti-shake" stuff as well... not bad at all. ;)

[ChrisPlatt]

I have an old Vivitar 45 CdS meter.
It's an inexpensive but nicely made incident/reflecting model.
Thanks to G'man I just discovered it is also accurate with a modern 1.5V battery. :)

I also have my first meter, a tiny, 30 year-old Sekonic selenium model.
It's still right on in normal light but not very sensitive in low light.

Carrying a separate meter is a real PITA so these get very little use.
I just picked up a little shoe-mount Vivitar CdS model that might see more action...

Chris

[chut]

Pardon the slight OT question, but I would also like to get a vintage light meter. I gather though, that these display EV, rather than a specific shutter speed/f-stop. How does one convert the EV?

The Ikophot doesn't even seem to show any markings in its display! How does this work?

[Roger Hicks]

SEI Photometer, still in the eyes of many the ultimate spot meter (1/2 degree spot, and can read 1/4 degree areas). Mine has been updated with an LED reference and modern ISO scales:

http://www.rogerandfrances.com/photoschool/sei.html

Among more conventional meters, my Weston Master III meters are more reliable than later models...

Cheers,

R.

[chris00nj]

Leica Meter 3 is definitely the one I wish was accurate (it's the little one on the left). It's selenium cell that gives the output in LV. Although it doesn't need batteries, it's not very accurate

Weston Master II - Haven't played with this one much

Leica MR - I put in a new Wein Cell battery, but it didn't seem to work.

I just ordered the VC II meter.

[chris00nj]

Pardon the slight OT question, but I would also like to get a vintage light meter. I gather though, that these display EV, rather than a specific shutter speed/f-stop. How does one convert the EV?

The Ikophot doesn't even seem to show any markings in its display! How does this work?


EV of 15 is the basis of the sunny 16 rule. So you can count stops from there. Perhaps the meter told me EV 13. EV 15 with ISO 100 would be f/16, 1/125. Two stops away could be f/11 and 1/60.

The Ultimate Computer Exposure is a good resource (http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm#EXPOSURE%20FACTOR%20RELATIONSHIP%20CHA RT%20B)

[Muggins]

Chut,

In my (limited!) experience, most lightmeters with an EV scale read off shutter speeds and f-stops on one side, and EV on another. Frankly, the easiest way to convert is to have a 1950s camera (the Retinettes, and the Balda Baldesa come to mind) with red EV markings on it.

ETA Beaten to it by someone who knows :o

Plus if you go back far enough you need to be aware of the different standards for film speed.... including old and new Weston!

As for old meters, I do have one that I seem to recall dates to sometime around WW2 which still works, though I've never dared use it. It's black-painted brass, and feels like it weighs a pound! If I could just remember the name I could find an image... And the one I most wish worked is the Argus LC3 on my Brick - it's a pain doing anything other than sunny 16... er... 8!

Adrian

[literiter]

There is a Gossen Luna Pro around here somewhere, for when I'm feeling retentive, but I like the feeling when I'm measuring light with my Weston II for my Super Ikonta B.

[shadowfox]

Say hi to one of my vintage light meters:

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/198/477801423_8e45d99e40_o.jpg

it's small ... and yes, it can take a picture on its own also ;)

[Florian1234]

I used to use a Gossen Bisix 2 (bought from a fellow RFF member), but it fell down two times and the second time it was not repairable. :(

Now I'm looking for a Gossen Profisix or Variosix F. :rolleyes:

[Disaster_Area]

I'll give another vote to the Zeiss Ikon Ikophot... mine is spot on according to my Canon 30D and has never let me down with my meterless gear. It's accuracy does break down in low light but so do most older meters, shooting film I usually just give it a stop more than it reads in low lite to be safe and it seems to work fine. I would LOVE a spotmeter though.. can anyone recommend one that's not going to cost me a fortune?

[Muggins]

Here's something very similar to my elderly AVO meter mentioned earlier: http://www.scienceandsociety.co.uk/results.asp?image=10244345
Mine has a black top plate, and the name is just AVO, but other than that they're pretty similar.

Being largely brass, it wouldn't make a bad weapon... Perhaps one day I'll work out what the film speeds would be marked as, and see how accurate it is after 70-odd years?

Adrian

[Muggins]

Well, I've just dug out my AVO meter and I'm intrigued as to what scale it is marked in. Apertures cover f32 to f1, exposure times 1/2000 to 60 seconds . Here's the hard bit. The scale that the needle points to, which I assume is the film speed, begins at 200 and goes 500-1000-2000-5000, and then says "H&D". I'm fairly sure that's way too high at both ends to be ASA/ISO. Does anyone know what scale it might be, and how to convert to something a bit more 21st-century?

It doesn't help that the one pictured in the link from my previous post is marked in yet another scale - looks to be N I or No 1 film factors...

Any assistance gratefully received!

Adrian

[Roger Hicks]

Well, I've just dug out my AVO meter and I'm intrigued as to what scale it is marked in. Apertures cover f32 to f1, exposure times 1/2000 to 60 seconds . Here's the hard bit. The scale that the needle points to, which I assume is the film speed, begins at 200 and goes 500-1000-2000-5000, and then says "H&D". I'm fairly sure that's way too high at both ends to be ASA/ISO. Does anyone know what scale it might be, and how to convert to something a bit more 21st-century?

It doesn't help that the one pictured in the link from my previous post is marked in yet another scale - looks to be N I or No 1 film factors...

Any assistance gratefully received!

Adrian
Dear Adrian,

Surprise! It's the H&D film speed scale. From memory this involved producing the gamma slope down to the log E axis and using that as the speed point, so the figures are not directly translatable to later speed systems. To make life still more interesting, there are two H&D scales, UK and European, with European approximately 3x UK, i.e. UK H&D 100 = European H&D 300.

A workable translation for UK H&D (likely on an AVO) is 200 = 6 ASA, 1000 = 32, 5000 = 160. These figures are rounded for convenience; accuracy is very unlikely to be affected.

Cheers,

R.

[Muggins]

Thank you very much for that, Roger! I'm afraid the physics sailed way over my head, but I have a point to start from now.

Once we have a little light to play with, I'll have to try it out against a more known-quantity meter, and see if it's even remotely accurate. If it is, I may pop a roll through something period with it. I could do that before I check, but it seems slightly pointless to use B&W and let the latitude take care of any inadequacies when the point of a meter is to set the value... Or am I taking this photography lark too literally? ;)

Adrian

[polaski]

I use a Gossen Luna Pro.

But my oldest meter is extinct.

[literiter]

Today I acquired a slightly ratty old Weston Ranger 9 which looks like it might work provided I can get it modified to take silver oxide batteries. I like the look of it so far.
It is just a little smaller and slightly heavier than my Luna Pro and feels like a solid well made mechanism.

[literiter]

The Master 5 works quite well. I really like the fact that it doesn't require batteries. Of course it doesn't perform in low light very well.

The Ranger awaits some PX625 silver oxide cells and then a small modification to accept them. Seems OK on the outside.

[projectbluebird]

I have an old bakelite and aluminum DeJUR selenium meter. It used to be exactly one stop slow, but now it seems to have given up the ghost. Too bad, it was fun to use, if a bit heavy. The ASA index goes from 800 to 0.8! Which I believe is (or was) the speed of some papers.

[thirteen]

Here's my Zeiss Ikophot - great user - accurate except low light.