View Full Version : Meterless M?
stupid_john
03-21-2007, 03:35
I started RF photography nearly a year.
A Bessa R2 carrying a 35mm Summicron.
However, the Bessa R2 cannot use my Summicron 50mm DR.
Now, I am considering buying an M camera.
I have been struggling with the following options:
Option 1)
Save enough $ and then buy a M6. That's it. (Camerquest suggests start with a metered M body, right?)
Option 2)
Buy a M2 or M3 now. The price of second hand M2 or M3 can be 2/3
of that of an M6. Quite attractive. In addition, M3 .91x magnification ratio
seems useful for the DR. However, my main concern is:
Will it be too inconvenient to use a meterless M?
Also, I am afraid of GAS, i.e. I will also buy the M6 eventually.:D
Please give your advice and share your expereince~:)
No, do it.
Buy an M2 or M3 and a handheld meter. Once you get used to seeing the light using a meterless camera is a dream, almost like having AE. You think ahead, set exposure prior to bringing the camera to your eye, point focus and shoot.
It is that easy after a little practice.
dave lackey
03-21-2007, 03:59
No, do it.
Buy an M2 or M3 and a handheld meter. Once you get used to seeing the light using a meterless camera is a dream, almost like having AE. You think ahead, set exposure prior to bringing the camera to your eye, point focus and shoot.
It is that easy after a little practice.
Ahhh...good question is which handheld meter would be best with the M? :)
>>Ahhh...good question is which handheld meter would be best with the M?<<
An incident meter that is very small, light and handheld. Mine was so small and light that I didn't notice it was still in one of my pockets and ran it through the laundry. It was a small Sekonic with a match needle.
In my experience, a large, heavy feature-filled light meter doesn't fit well with the shooting style of a rangefinder camera. I have an old Gossen LunaPro Six and just won't use it because of size and weight.
Once you learn to use an incident meter (this takes about an afternoon) you realize that the last 40 years of in-camera meter technology have been a paintful attempt at duplicating the accuracy of a basic incident reading.
mfunnell
03-21-2007, 04:13
My recommendation would be to buy a meterless M. For me, the M to buy was an M3, simply because I needed something to focus my 75/1.4 Summilux (which has a DOF so short, wide open, that it needs all the help it and I can get).
But that's not the reason I'd recommend a meterless M. The reason I do recommend it is because of what working purely manually can teach you about exposure. I'll admit, sometimes the lessons are harsh. But what that continues to teach me (I'm not there yet) is to make conscious decisions about exposure and to know why you're making them. I'm currently enjoying having an AE camera (my Hexar RF), a manual camera (my M3) and a fully automatic dSLR exercise. In many ways, though, the M3 is the one I like the best, even though I mostly get better shots from the Hexar RF. With the Hexar RF I get something close enough to be saved. With the M3, the usual result is either absolutely correct, or its completly unusable (because of my own personal photographic pathologies).
But I've found my AE shooting with the Hexar RF and my dSLR have benefited from both my successes and failures with the M3.
...Mike
OurManInTangier
03-21-2007, 04:14
I recently purchased an M6 for exactly this reason. I wanted a metered body that I could use in a similar manner to the old slr's I used to use. I found that it actually slowed me down, admittedly some of this is the simple matter of learning to adjust to a new camera, but I took the advice of many and started using a handheld meter. This has been a relevation as far as work speed goes. I now meter for whatever light is around and when I see something I can raise the camera, compose and focus without having to worry about adjusting aperture or speed too much. You can also zone focus if you want to be even faster.
Having said this I'm still glad I've got the M6 with its meter as a back up should my handheld ones batteries die or worse. I would definitely buy a meterless M body as my second body though.
BTW - My handheld is a Sekonic L-308B Flashmate that I use in the studio. Does a great job for incident readings and fits in my pocket perfectly.
Good luck making your decision!
like2fiddle
03-21-2007, 04:43
I say go for an M2 or M3 and hand held meter. My primary camera is an M2. I used a Gossen Pilot 2 for a long time. It has both reflective and incident measurement, is small and requires no batteries. Not so good in low light though, which is why I purchased a VC II last fall. I now use both (or none). A month or so ago I also picked up a used Bessa R2 because I felt I needed a camera with an onboard meter, and I just couldn't come up with the funds for my first choice, an M6. I have found that I am having alot of trouble getting used to using the in-camera meter. I've now shot several rolls of film with the R2, but I still find myself wanting to check out the general lighting, meter it, set the camera, and concentrate on focusing and taking pictures. I very often use the R2's meter to take one reading that I judge to be "average" for the circumstances, and then set the aperture and shutter and fire away without regard to the meter until something significant changes in the lighting. Good enough results for me, but I'm not a pro, I do this for enjoyment.
I have M6 and quickly learnt to appreciate its metering. The key (IMO) is understanding and masterign zone system - a very powerful knowledge and experience that aims you to nearly any lightign situation with simplest, yet precise and reliable in-camera metering as in M6. I just learnt to evaluate the relative brightness of the patterns relatively to average gray so you can meter off anything and compensate accordinlgy. With little practice takes almost no time.
Besides, recently acquired a used Polaris digital meter - very handy one yet non-expensive, Small and light enough to fit your pocket and palm, allows both, incident and reflected (as well as flash metering if necessary).
So, the aproach is to use the incident when shooting in more or less even lighting (take one reading once and shoot away, take another reading if light changes noticeably). Shoting distant subjects with different illuminaiton then in my proximity - here in-camera meter along with zone system evaluation skills come handy....
Todd.Hanz
03-21-2007, 04:59
An M3 would be great for your DR, if you want a small meter that fits the M3 like it was made for it, get an VC Meter II from Cameraquest, works great!
Todd
Now, I am considering buying an M camera.
I have been struggling with the following options:
Option 1)
Save enough $ and then buy a M6. That's it. (Camerquest suggests start with a metered M body, right?)
Option 2)
Buy a M2 or M3 now. The price of second hand M2 or M3 can be 2/3
of that of an M6. Quite attractive.
Option 3)
Read the reviews at CameraQuest (http://www.cameraquest.com/m5.htm) and photo.net (http://www.photo.net/equipment/leica/m5/) and buy an M5. Cheap, great spot meter with convenient user interface, and simply the best M of them all. Better than an M4 either way, and doubly so if you add a clunky, wobbly, scratchy Leicameter to the M4. (See, I'm entirely objective now that I've got an M5. <maniacallaugh>) :p :p :p
Phil*infected*ipp
I don't have a meterless M but would like to get an M3. I do have a Sekonic Twinmate meter that is very simple to use and would recommend it as a small, even retro looking meter. But once in a while I take the batteries out of my MP and voila! Meterless M.
Meter or no meter I do feel that the M3 or M5 are great cameras. I'd buy both!
sebastel
03-21-2007, 05:49
get the M2 or M3!
for handheld metering, i use the gossen sixtomat digital.
simple, easy to use.
just a little bit bulky compared to the very small meters.
regards,
sebastian
Steve Bellayr
03-21-2007, 05:50
From what you have written I think that you really want that M6. As for prices...if you shop around the M6 will not be that much more. You also need to check framelines for each camera as they vary. M3 is 50-90-135 while M2 is 35-50-90. Check that I believe that I am correct. There are differences. M5 is a big camera. M4's are uncommon. As for meter a good small meter...VCII...which is recommended is about $180 S&H. Add that to the cost of the camera. The TTL's are more than the Classic. If you are doing street shooting and you are not a professional films today have a full stop latitude in each direction which is good because lighting varies greatly when you are running on the street catching the shots as they go by. On the other hand memorizing the sunny 16 rule is very easy combing it with the film latitude. Also, the older the camera the more problems that may occur. The M6s seem to be around generally in excellent shape as people are trading them up for the newer models (Leica users keep their cameras in excellent shape if not pristine).
In my own experience I've found metered M's to be much easier for my photography.
When I'm out on the street looking for pictures, I prefer not having to think (or in my case, guess) about exposure when all I want to do is make images.
I've owned a number of non-metered M's (m2, m4-2, m4-p) and although I like their simplicity, I still prefer my M5 and M6. In fact, I've sold them all except for my M5 and M6's.
On the other hand, a M2 with a CVII meter is a great place to start ..
I suggest to make it dependent on your lens choice. If your favorite FL is 50, buy an M3, if it's 35, buy an M2,
if it's 28, buy an M4P or M6.
Incident metering with a nice digital meter is much quicker than the in-camera meter. The in-camera meter is most useful
when doing informal portraits and you don't want to waive a light meter around ... YMMV.
Roland.
rogue_designer
03-21-2007, 09:48
toss a gossen digisix in your pocket for when you don't want to rely in sunny 16. It's small and robust - just don't forget it's there when you do the laundry.
Cheaper than the VCII - you can mount it on top of the cam if you want. Offers either reflective or incident readings.
As for which cam - my dream is a black M2R, but you won't save any money looking for one of those. M4 is next on my list. But one in good shape goes for about the same as an M6.
Maybe an M4-2 or M4-P is about the right balance?
drewbarb
03-21-2007, 10:11
I'll throw my vote in with the folks who suggest you get a meterless camera. It will teach you more about exposing and photography to use a meterless camera, and yes, the lessons are sometimes harsh, but you'll get it pretty quickly, and in the end your photography and your confidence should both improve. I started RF shooting with an M3, and after a while thought I wanted a meter body, for all the same reasons anyone wants a metered body. But in the end I sold my M6 and stuck with the M3. I found the meter diodes distracting and ultimately unneccesary. Now, the M7 or another body with AE would be nice to have. What's the point of an internal meter if it's not coupled with the ability to really speed your shooting? Anyway, the M3 has a spectacular finder. I shoot with two of them now and largely immune to camera body GAS- except that I'd love to add a Hexar RF for the AE and it's low-magnification (wider angle) finder.
Well, I like the meter in my M6. I don't obsess about it, and if I think I know better I adjust appropriately, but I'm glad the meter is there, it's one less thing to carry. Spot metering takes a bit of getting used to, but it made me learn about the zone system, which is useful in difficult mixed lighting. And I do a lot of shooting by the sea, in very changeable light, and a meter definitely helps, even though I can generally work without one if I have to.
Ian
It's good to shoot meterless for awhile so that you understand the process. I found that I handled a metered camera much differently -- and more confidently -- after I'd spent awhile shooting meterless.
haagen_dazs
03-21-2007, 10:55
In my experience, a large, heavy feature-filled light meter doesn't fit well with the shooting style of a rangefinder camera.
is the VCII considered large or a decent non-intrusive size?
haagen_dazs
03-21-2007, 10:56
have a question...that i am debating.
which would make better sense?
getting a m3 or m4 plus a VCII (or some sort)
OR
getting a m6 ?
any advice?
shadowfox
03-21-2007, 10:59
I was tethering on getting an M6 as opposed to M3 (which I prefer craftmanship-wise) because of the meter also.
The thing that changed this is my experience in using the Sunny-16 rules and an EV chart with my batteryless Olympus OM-1.
I was skeptical and had no confidence whatsoever until I saw the result. Using the rules and my eyes to guesstimate the exposure is a lot of fun. I believe that if I continue practicing, I'd become proficient enough not to have to rely on a meter unless in tricky lighting situations.
So now I want an M3 and maybe the VCII meter :)
The only real issue with an M5 is that if the meter goes south on you it may be difficult to get it fixed. I am told that some parts are no longer easy to find. There is a small Sekonic hand-held meter model number 300-and-something that is light and accurate and quick and easy to use that I have (but not here at the office) that I'd recommend if you're buying new -- about $60 or so IIRC.
About 2 years ago I almost bought M4-2 for my first rf/Leica, but when I found out that it had no meter, I did not buy it. You know, I had never before used a camera without meter and I thought it would be difficult to use handheld meter. Well, after few months of thinking about it, I finally decided to try it and bought M2 and a small Gossen meter...wow... To make it short; I think that shooting with handheld meter and negative film (color or B&W) is sooooooo much easier than with built-in meters. From that moment on I have used only handheld meter with all my film cameras -- including Nikon F5 (pro camera known for it's fantastic meter) and Leica M6. I had F5 for about an year and I did not use it's meter not even once.
So, just go for it!
PS. Just today... OH MY GOD with digital canon... I totally wanted to smash that piece of cr*p to the floor... I can't explain how many ways I hate that camera... I just today shooted one session with digital "just in case"...what a pain. And after that digital agony I switched to handheld meter, M6 and B&W film. Oooohh, "ZENNNNNNN", the ultimate zen experience. Just developed the films and all perfect (exposure that is). During that session I metered only once. Super easy.
OH MY GOD with digital canon... I totally wanted to smash that piece of cr*p to the floor... I can't explain how many ways I hate that camera... I just today shooted one session with digital "just in case"...what a pain. And after that digital agony I switched to handheld meter, M6 and B&W film. Oooohh, "ZENNNNNNN", the ultimate zen experience. Just developed the films and all perfect (exposure that is). During that session I metered only once. Super easy.
What's stopping you then from setting the camera to the some ISO value, metering once with your external meter, setting the camera to "M" and shooting with manual exposure? With a decent focusing screen you can focus manually, too, if you insist. It's not like the camera forces you at gunpoint to use automation.
Philipp
I think the VCII is a nice small meter, judging by Gandy's website.
>>What's stopping you then from setting the camera to the some ISO value, metering once with your external meter, setting the camera to "M" and shooting with manual exposure? <<
The first time I used a digital SLR -- an NC-2000 -- I was completely baffled by its auto-metering system. So I set it on Manual exposure and shot a combination of Sunny 16 and handheld meter. Digital capture is about like slide film ... expose for the highlights instead of the shadows and expect narrow latitude.
What's stopping you then from setting the camera to the some ISO value, metering once with your external meter, setting the camera to "M" and shooting with manual exposure? With a decent focusing screen you can focus manually, too, if you insist. It's not like the camera forces you at gunpoint to use automation.
Philipp
Of course I use M mode and shoot with optimum settings, but still there is 100x more fiddling with your camera with digital than with manual film camera. it takes away the attention from the actual shooting if you need to fiddle with your camera. Like todays images...the negatives look exactly the way I wanted. The digital...yeah, couple of frames OK, then the subject (human) moved maybe 3 feets in one image and wow...now his face is totally white, highlights blinking.... I have shooted now exactly one years period with this digital canon -- at my job that is. Maybe 30K of images in all kinds of different situations and still no, the ZEN just is not there.
Manual focus with 30D -- impossible. Absolutely no chance. Been there, tried that (and almost lost my mind).
What is the advantage of a meterless "M"? Zippo, nada, nothing.
Working meterless? You're kidding. Not using the meter on a M5, M6, M7, ZI will give you the same result. It is your choice, not the camera's.
Working without battery? Ever complained that all M's up to M7 are FILM dependent? You have to change a film every 36 exposures. A battery every now and then. Taking - let's say - 5 sets of batteries with you on a day trip will not exceed size and weight of a single roll of film.
Saving money? How? The price difference between a 30 year old used M4 to a 20 year old used M6 or a 1 year old ZI or a BRAND NEW Bessa is about the same you have to pay for a good external or add-on meter.
No doubt, M2, M3, M4.. are fine cameras that will deliver - in the hands of an experienced photograph - extraordinary results. But a M5, M6, M7 claims the same attributes.
A reasonable upgrade for a R2 would be a M6. Nobody has to chasten oneself....
Working meterless? You're kidding. Not using the meter on a M5, M6, M7, ZI will give you the same result. It is your choice, not the camera's.
Not addressing your other points here, but: with a metered camera you'll succumb to metering simply because of those LEDs sticking in VF and not indicating "correct" value. Sortof like one always itches to empty Recycle Bin on computer desktop when seeing that "trash can with litter" icon.
reub2000
03-21-2007, 13:12
Of course I use M mode and shoot with optimum settings, but still there is 100x more fiddling with your camera with digital than with manual film camera. it takes away the attention from the actual shooting if you need to fiddle with your camera. Like todays images...the negatives look exactly the way I wanted. The digital...yeah, couple of frames OK, then the subject (human) moved maybe 3 feets in one image and wow...now his face is totally white, highlights blinking.... I have shooted now exactly one years period with this digital canon -- at my job that is. Maybe 30K of images in all kinds of different situations and still no, the ZEN just is not there.
Manual focus with 30D -- impossible. Absolutely no chance. Been there, tried that (and almost lost my mind).Learn the inverse square law. If your going to shoot without automatic exposure, then you have to account for things like a subject moving closer to and farther away from the light. Accept responsibility for your mistake and stop blaming the camera.
drewbarb
03-21-2007, 13:13
What is the advantage of a meterless "M"? Zippo, nada, nothing.
Working meterless? You're kidding. Not using the meter on a M5, M6, M7, ZI will give you the same result. It is your choice, not the camera's.
Working without battery? Ever complained that all M's up to M7 are FILM dependent? You have to change a film every 36 exposures. A battery every now and then. Taking - let's say - 5 sets of batteries with you on a day trip will not exceed size and weight of a single roll of film.
Saving money? How? The price difference between a 30 year old used M4 to a 20 year old used M6 or a 1 year old ZI or a BRAND NEW Bessa is about the same you have to pay for a good external or add-on meter.
No doubt, M2, M3, M4.. are fine cameras that will deliver - in the hands of an experienced photograph - extraordinary results. But a M5, M6, M7 claims the same attributes.
A reasonable upgrade for a R2 would be a M6. Nobody has to chasten oneself....
If you consider it chastening to use a meterless camera, by all means, don't. M6 is indeed a fine camera. But the three reasons you list miss the point. Nobody argues is saves money; battery dependence is a non-issue, and as for meterless shooting, as I said before, if a camera doesn't have aperture priority auto exposure, I'd rather it not have a meter at all- the lights in the finder annoy me, and they don't offer me much I don't know before I lift the camera to my eye. At that point my settings are already dialed in. If I don't know what the light and settings will be, I check a hand-held meter before the action starts. All I'm saying is that it's rewarding to learn to work this way.
have a question...that i am debating.
which would make better sense?
getting a m3 or m4 plus a VCII (or some sort)
OR
getting a m6 ?
any advice?
The VCII meter is decently small. My only quibble with it is that the asa setting is too easily altered unknowingly.
As to which camera, you can't go wrong with either. Let the camera find you. Start looking and see what comes along. If it feels good, buy it.
Don't get the M3 if you do a lot of shooting with a 35mm - no framelines for it. The M3 IS perfect for the 50 and 90.
You may end up with both in a few years anyway. I've got an M2, 3, and 6. BTW, I use the M6 meter like a handheld meter. I point the camera at a medium grey area, set the exposure, and only think about changing it if the light changes.
haagen_dazs
03-21-2007, 13:36
The digital...yeah, couple of frames OK, then the subject (human) moved maybe 3 feets in one image and wow...now his face is totally white, highlights blinking....
Manual focus with 30D -- impossible. Absolutely no chance. Been there, tried that (and almost lost my mind).
i fell off my chair laughing at this..
i totally totally feel for you :bang:
Learn the inverse square law. If your going to shoot without automatic exposure, then you have to account for things like a subject moving closer to and farther away from the light. Accept responsibility for your mistake and stop blaming the camera.
Yes, I am part of the problem (often), sure. But what can I do, I hate that kind of stuff while I'm shooting... That is exactly why I prefer hand held meter and negative film -- all those problems are gone :) Well, let's end this digital talk and let's focus on the original topic :)
The digital...yeah, couple of frames OK, then the subject (human) moved maybe 3 feets in one image and wow...now his face is totally white, highlights blinking....
Hm, if the subject moves towards the light and suddenly is a stop brighter, don't blame the equipment. Digital has less latitude than a negative. Think of it more like slide film where you have to compensate, too, regardless of whether the metering is taking place in-camera or with a handheld meter.
Philipp
mfunnell
03-21-2007, 14:33
The VCII meter is decently small. My only quibble with it is that the asa setting is too easily altered unknowingly.Completely agree with Frank regarding the VCII meter. My only other issue with the VCII (and its my issue, not the meter's) is when using it mounted to the accessory shoe on the camera. I have a horrid tendency to dial in the correct exposure settings on the meter then forget to set the shutter speed. When I use it as a hand-held meter I don't seem to make that mistake. I know this, but still I occasionally mount it on the accessory shoe and proceed to mess everything up.
...Mike
Completely agree with Frank regarding the VCII meter. My only other issue with the VCII (and its my issue, not the meter's) is when using it mounted to the accessory shoe on the camera. I have a horrid tendency to dial in the correct exposure settings on the meter then forget to set the shutter speed. When I use it as a hand-held meter I don't seem to make that mistake. I know this, but still I occasionally mount it on the accessory shoe and proceed to mess everything up.
...Mike
Yep, Mike, I know EXACTLY what you mean. I was lamenting making this same mistake in a conversation with Allan (kaiyen) just last night.
-Randy
I have and M3 and and M6. I would agree with everyone who says go for the M3. I frequently shoot with the M6 without batteries and use a Gossen Digisix meter instead. The incident readings are much more friendly in tricky light and the meter is so smal I actually hold it in the palm of my hand sometimes while shooting. If you must have a built-in meter the M6's is as good as any if you understand the limitations common to all built-ins.
An M2 works fine for me. A Gossen LunaPro Digital handheld meter is quick, simple and straightforward to use. Just meter, set the shutter speed and aperture, then forget about exposure and just focus, compose and shoot. I'm not badmouthing metered M's, mind you, but an M2 is so direct that it's almost intuitive.
Just wonder .... Are M3s/M2s that cheaper than a (used) M6 ? At least here in Japan, a non-pristine M3 goes usually for ~ 10 - 20 % more compared to a M6. If I add the cost for a CLA and maybe replacement of the shutter - curtains it will get quite expensive using a M3 ...
stupid_john
03-21-2007, 23:28
Thanks for the input from other RFFers.
The discussion help me a lot.;)
1. It seems that a meterless M is not as difficult to use as I thought.
At least, it is still a user camera for many guys here. Not merely an
collection item put in a cabinet.
2. The use of built-in meter vs. handheld meter is so interesting.
I also found that the built-in meter of my R2 confused me a lot.
I need to check the meter more than when i am using other
mechanical cameras. The R2 meter sometimes does not response
to the changes in aperture/shutter speed. So, sometines, i simply
wait a few seconds and then pre-press the shutter button again to
check the expossure or simply guess the exposure if i don't want
to wait. Maybe, I need to send the R2 to the dealer for checking.
One has to juggle between, focusing, adjusting exposure, checking meter,
composing......Oh..... just too much for me.
I am afraid that using a meterless M will increase the hassles for taking photos.
Maybe, I can try to use R2 with the Sekonic 300B to see if I can manage the
photo taking process. If so, I think that I can manage a meterless M well.:rolleyes:
3. Regarding the choice of M2, M3 or M6 is a tough question.
Yes, I cannot plug my 35mm Summicron directly on an M3.
This is a draw back of an M3. But it is good for my 50mm DR.
Here in Hong Kong, M2 is the cheapest. M3 (a classic) is pricier than M2.
M2 and M3 usually cost about US$700~900. M6 costs about US$1100~1300.
Curently, there is an excellent M3 selling for $700 while a black M6 in similar
condition is selling at over $1200. The meter costs me $500!!!
As someone already pointed out, if I buy a M3 now,
I may also buy a M6 eventually. Or, maybe not.
If I buy the M6 first, I may or may not buy an M3.
Who knows.
georges h
03-22-2007, 00:10
have a question...that i am debating.
which would make better sense?
getting a m3 or m4 plus a VCII (or some sort)
OR
getting a m6 ?
any advice? A M6, of course , you can work very quickly
Curently, there is an excellent M3 selling for $700 while a black M6 in similar condition is selling at over $1200. The meter costs me $500!!!
It's not only the meter that costs $500, it's a lot of added conveniences like loading film without fiddling with spools, 28 and 35mm framelines, a hot shoe and a rewind crank, and most important of all it's the 40 or so years that the camera is younger. I'd say that does make a difference, even with Leicas. I would buy an M6.
However, don't discard the M5, I paid $650 for mine and the meter is quite good.
drewbarb
03-22-2007, 10:11
Thanks for the input from other RFFers.
The discussion help me a lot.;)
1. It seems that a meterless M is not as difficult to use as I thought.
At least, it is still a user camera for many guys here. Not merely an
collection item put in a cabinet.
2. The use of built-in meter vs. handheld meter is so interesting.
I also found that the built-in meter of my R2 confused me a lot.
I need to check the meter more than when i am using other
mechanical cameras. The R2 meter sometimes does not response
to the changes in aperture/shutter speed. So, sometines, i simply
wait a few seconds and then pre-press the shutter button again to
check the expossure or simply guess the exposure if i don't want
to wait. Maybe, I need to send the R2 to the dealer for checking.
One has to juggle between, focusing, adjusting exposure, checking meter,
composing......Oh..... just too much for me.
I am afraid that using a meterless M will increase the hassles for taking photos.
Maybe, I can try to use R2 with the Sekonic 300B to see if I can manage the
photo taking process. If so, I think that I can manage a meterless M well.:rolleyes:
3. Regarding the choice of M2, M3 or M6 is a tough question.
Yes, I cannot plug my 35mm Summicron directly on an M3.
This is a draw back of an M3. But it is good for my 50mm DR.
Here in Hong Kong, M2 is the cheapest. M3 (a classic) is pricier than M2.
M2 and M3 usually cost about US$700~900. M6 costs about US$1100~1300.
Curently, there is an excellent M3 selling for $700 while a black M6 in similar
condition is selling at over $1200. The meter costs me $500!!!
As someone already pointed out, if I buy a M3 now,
I may also buy a M6 eventually. Or, maybe not.
If I buy the M6 first, I may or may not buy an M3.
Who knows.
John- I think you have a really good idea here- try pulling the battery out of your R2 and shoot with it for a while with the handheld meter (your Sekonic 308B is perfect for this). See if you can get comfortable with shooting without a meter in the camera. It sounds like your R2 meter is not that helpful, anyway. If you are shooting negatives, you should find that in constant light, you need to take a couple of readings, know your highlight and shadow exposures, put the meter away and just shoot, adjusting as needed by learing to trust your eye. You may find that in fast situations, you are shooting first, then checking your meter to make sure you are right with your settings.
If working like this works for you (and I bet it will- anyone can learn to shoot this way), then the M2 or M3 should be yoru next camera. If you just don't like it, get the M6. You really can't go wrong- and as you say, you may very well end up with more than one of these in the long run anyway.
I think it was Frank who suggested that you let your lens choice guide you to the right body, in terms of finder magnification. This is good advice. So is his idea to look around and let the right camera find you. Good luck!
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