View Full Version : Do you develop your own B&W film?
I've always thought that rangefinders and B&W kinda went together naturally. But I'm wondering how many folks still develop their own B&W?
Although I no longer do any darkroom printing, I've dusted off my developing tanks and for the past year, started developing film again. Mainly HP5+ and sometimes Tri-X (I can buy HP5 cheaper) :)
I usually develop in Rodinal or HC-110, then scan the negs after they're dry and cut.
Tried some XP2 and some T400CN and liked both, but I'm still drawn to the older emulsions and a bit of DIY.
Anybody else?
Gene
Yes,
I still develop my own B&W, but I don't wet print any more. Recently I've been using DiXactol most of the time.
Best,
Helen
jacemanuel
01-25-2004, 13:21
Yes, I develop my B&W, and I still go into the darkroom to make prints. I even like the smell - and I make rather many prints in 12x16 or 16x20.
Jacques.
I do not though I am considering starting again. My father has an enlarger in his attic he has been begging me to take home, infact he wants to come over and help me set up a dark room. He bought all of the equipment to develop film and print B&W when I was in high school. We did quite of bit of film then, and I would like to start again. I am considering developing 120 film and perfecting (I mean learn how to) my scanning skills and print digitally. I have taken photography classes at a local community college, and they have some B&W Darkroom classes which may gain me access to their equipment.
You made me go look on B&H to see if they had a basic film development kit. You guys are bad, very bad.
SolaresLarrave
01-25-2004, 17:31
I read these posts and turn green with envy... :( I even learned to drop words like Rodinal and started thinking of making my own soup, getting myself a timer or taping a cassette with directions read off some DIY manual, just to learn how to develop my own stuff. I don't think it'd lead to savings, though, but I imagine it'll lead to a larger control over the final product: you shoot it, you develop it, you scan it and you print it.
Wow!
Rover, you can develop film! You just gave me one more reason to envy you!
back alley
01-25-2004, 17:42
after not photographing for a few years, i recently started shooting again. (rff photo project)
i am back to developing and will start printing again also.
i like the ilford films, mostly delta 400 & 3200. i 'soup' them in ddx and my old standby ilfosol s. the latter is not the best at anything but i seem to like it.
i use an old bessler 23c for both 35 and 120 negs. i discovered the beauty of fuji enlarging lenses years ago and have 2.
someday i might start scanning for the ease and quickness of it but i have yet to research my needs and costs. (i'm a very poor human service worker).
joe
While I'd like to claim "yes" I have to admit to "no." Not recently, anyway. I have a darkroom with a big sink, mixing faucets, and a Beseler 23C with dichroic head. But, sigh, it hasn't been used for a few years, and in the meantime it's been cluttered with "temporary" storage, so it's actually unusable until it's cleared out. Which I intend to do! I bought a package of Diafine to run some Tri-X I have in the fridge, a few rolls of Pan-F loaded from bulk, and some 110 Verichrome Pan I hope is still good because you just can't get it any more. But I really am a fan of Ilford's chromogenic B&W; it's more challenging to develop due to the high temp and short time, but that didn't stop me before!
I think you are right Francisco about the lack of savings from developing film. For B&W the real expense is in the printing, specifically the paper. But if you were to develop the film and scan the negatives you're in business.
And my darkroom skills, it has been almost 20 years, but it really isn't that hard. The hardest thing I remember is getting the film on the reel and into the tank in total darkness, and that gets easier with practice. Of course, it got easier when I was 18, we will have to see now.
oftheherd
01-26-2004, 06:36
I haven't developed my own film for many years, I think since about 1989 when I was in Korea and it was easy to get to an Army Craft Shop. Used to do b/w. slides, and even color. Always enjoyed it. Never considered myself a good printer, but I enjoyed that too.
When our house was rebuilt, I insisted there be a sink in the utility room for developing, and built a sturdy wood bench for that. Sadly, I never did so. Due to this month's project, I am looking to doing my own MF developing again, and have gotten some D76 for that. I will also develop my own when I get up the gumption to start using an 8x10 I have. Then I can start with some of the different chemicals. I doubt I will mix my own chemicals though. I did that the first time I was in Korea, because it was easy to get chemicals. It was a fun experiment, especially as it was difficult to get things like rodinal and diafine, but now easier to purchase them. Ah, the sweet smell of darkroom chemicals in the morning.....
I think developing your own film makes shooting B&W pretty inexpensive. You need about $100Cdn of starter gear -- developing tank (I use Paterson plastic tanks and reels), changing bag for loading the reels in darkness, a few storage containers, and some chemicals. Developers like Rodinal and HC-110 are concentrates that last a long time and the only other chemicals I use are Kodak Fixer (mixed from powder) and a hypo clearing agent to remove any residual fixer from the negs.
In Canada I can purchase 3 x 36exp rolls of HP5+ for $10. I scan each roll to make a digital contact sheet and only work on a few keepers (parallel to what I used to do in the darkroom). I can't shoot col film this cheaply and when I process my own, I get much cleaner negs.
I think, as an analogy, it's like baking your own bread. You can purchase really excellent bread, but baking your own is always special. Besides, when I develop my own film it seems to irritate my buddies who have declared film is dead. I enjoy that :cool:
Gene
SolaresLarrave
01-26-2004, 07:31
Need to learn that right away... I'm almost ready to do it; in fact, at home, there's a nook in the basement that, with a bit of water, could be turned into a dark room.
And there's a nice sink around too...
Dreaming is still cheap. :)
I develop my own B&W and shoot maybe 80% B&W, and about 80% of that is 120 format. I feel like its all part of the creative process: shoot, develop, print. I built myself a darkroom in a large finished shed two years ago as a Christmas present to myself, but at age 52 and a 4 year old daughter and a 1 year old son, I don't have much time to use it (or energy).
I learned developing 14 years ago at the Vo-Tech school when I lived in Florida. There's just something about creating your own image. I print mainly 11x14 and have some 16x20 paper waiting to try. When you shoot the great outdoors, you need a print big enough.
Lately I've been using Rodinal just because it last forever after opening the bottle and because I'm trying to find a film/developer combo that really pops.
Chicken soup (ok, film soup) for the soul.
Brian
back alley
01-26-2004, 16:08
2 kids under 4 and you're 52!
brian, you are a dog!!!
i'm 53 and can barely take care of myself...
joe
Heck yes!
I live in New Zealand and I'm yet to see a pro-lab here correctly develop any non-C41 black and white film. Also I'm a student and apparently poor <quickly hiding the Hasselblad kit under the bed> and black & white is dirt-cheap.
But best of all, I love it! I have complete control over the process (which developer today?), you can experiment like crazy (hmmm... lets try putting a Zeiss Softar over the enlarging lens?), Zone System ('nuff said really), cheap prints at home bigger than A4, ISO 50 to 3200, etc etc.
And shock horror... Colorvir! If you haven't tried, give it a go.
Only thing stopping me from doing my own E6 and Cibachromes is the ultra scary cost of it all.
Also in this digital age of cheap-horrid inkjet prints, nothing bets giving someone B+W photo and hearing them exclaim, "Is this a real black and white photograph?"
"Yes..."
"Wow! It's even got that old fashion brown coloured effect..."
Carry on, carry on, etc etc...
Also if you like black & white photography, I can strongly recommend a British magazine called "Black&White Photography", by GMC Publications Ltd. Covers all aspects of B&W and a favourite section of mine is 'The Printers Art'- where all manner of negs are printed with step-by-step guides to dodging and burning, paper choice, grades, toning....
Stu :)
Originally posted by Stu
Also in this digital age of cheap-horrid inkjet prints
Stu, I agree that nothing quite matches a real darkroom print for B&W. But I've seen some outstanding colour prints done on inkjets. Better than many of the old Cibachromes I used to admire. And some of the upscale inkjets, like the Epson 2200 with both black and grey inks, come really close to darkroom quality for B&W's.
Gene
Nope... nope... nope :(
it's something I still have to try... I wanted to join the photography club when I was in high school but both times groups were already full :bang:
now with the MF scanner (epson 3170), I suppose someday I'll give it a try mainly with 120 film (bigger and probably easier to manipulate in the dark or inside the bag).
a brand new complete negative developing kit is near 60€, so I really have no excuse apart from laziness :rolleyes:
sorry guys, but still have some work to finish :( but tomorrow from 11:30 and on I'll be free again !!! BCN markets are waiting for me...
Wayne R. Scott
02-29-2004, 20:16
I develop my own B&W. I started with patterson type tanks and hand processing. I stumbled across a couple of Unicolor rotary tank processors and haven't used the patterson since. I use the 8x10 unicolor print tank to develop 4 sheets of 4x5 at a time. The film tanks are adjustable to accept from 1 to 6 reels of 35mm or 1 to 4 reels of 120 at a time.
I shoot mainly T-Max 100 in 120, Kodak Tri-X in 35mm, and Arista 125 in 4x5. Kodak D-76 1:1 is my main developer.
I use a Beseler 45MX for the 4x5 and a Beseler 23CII With Color Diachroic head for 120 and 35mm printing.
Wayne
Originally posted by Wayne R. Scott
I stumbled across a couple of Unicolor rotary tank processors and haven't used the patterson since. I use the 8x10 unicolor print tank to develop 4 sheets of 4x5 at a time.
Sounds like a nice setup, Wayne. I have an old Unicolor roller that I'm holding on to in case I ever get into 4x5. Lord, the last thing I need is to even think about another camera...
Gene
It is nice to know there are members out there who are still doing their own B&W film processing and printing.
After laying off photography for 25 years, I have made a come back a couple of years ago. Started off trying some digital stuff but the technology was not ready. Decided then to set up a wet darkroom in the spare room.
Things have really changed during my absence.....there are many convenient aids now....like the nova print processor (great space saver), print washers, enlarging exposure meters etc. Not to mention the really cheap prices these items are selling in the used market.
Really have great fun doing this darkroom stuff now compared to 25 years ago. The internet is a great resource that i did not had then.
Well, darkroom many not be anyone's liking. Very soon it is going to be very niched just like vinyl records.
You bet! I just finished 6 rolls of HP5+ tonight from last week's wedding. Here's a photo of my darkroom:
I just started learning how to develop films. It's great fun doing it.
Max
When I got my first SLR and kinda got more serious about photography I bought a basic LPL enlarger and enough gear to soup my own films, back then I'd buy HP5 & FP4 by the 10 pack and waste a lot of paper to get passable 8x10's but I had a lot of fun trying. Now I'm shooting only XP2 and a few rolls of Delta 3200 a year (lab processed at great cost). As time goes on I intend to get a good neg scanner that can do a reasonable job on true B&W negs so I can shoot a lot more real silver based film, soup my own and then scan and print them digitally on something like a high end Epson or at my local Fuji Frontier lab. I do agree there is nothing like a good hand printed B&W but I don’t have the skills myself.
PS: I still have my old enlarger and gear and only a couple of months ago I was almost tempted by all the low cost/high quality used enlarger lenses at my local camera store, if anything will return me to B&W D&P shooting RF's will :)
back alley
10-01-2004, 22:11
laika,
printing at a master level takes time and lots of work, but being a good printer isn't really that hard.
after a bit of practice you will be better than most of the labs around you.
believe me, i'm no great printer but i ain't so bad and all it takes is patience, a good editor and evening full of good kharma.
joe
Rich Silfver
10-01-2004, 22:38
Great looking setup Frank!
Just noted the interest shown in this thread. Sharing my compact darkroom setup in the spare bedroom. For film processing I usually use a changing bag and process it in the bathroom next to this room.
The nova print processor is mounted on a roller tray that can be rolled out when in use and roll back for storage.
I've developed about 7 rolls of Efke KB100 in the past year and a half or so, and still have 3 rolls unexposed lying about. Developing the film by myself is nice but I'm not addicted to it. I actually rather shoot colour neg film and use PSP to turn the shots into B&W (or better, Monochrome).
I do mostly B&W stuff - color is only used with my Nikon F80 during family gatherings, birthdays, etc...
I've NEVER had any B&W developed by a lab!
My first lab work must have been some time in primary school - in the late seventies :)
I seriously started photography with my first serious camera - a Yashica FR (which I still have, though it's inoperable) in 1982, I think. I did quite some shooting for 3-4 years, but then other things intervened (it's a long story).
A few years ago, when moving into a new house, I reserved a small space under the stairs (actually, a toilet :)) for myself, which has become my permanent darkroom. It's so tiny that I had to use fisheye to get a shot of it :D
I use mostly Efke films (no wonder, since I'm in Croatia), and develop in Rodinal at 1:50 - mostly in a small tank, but I recently also got a used Jobo processor (CPE) with lift - for medium format stuff, when I have more than 2 films to do.
Lately, since I bought a Leica, I've been shooting like mad :) I already had to buy two new bulk cans of Efke KB100 and two cans of TMax 400 :D
Attached is a shot of my darkroom:
Honu-Hugger
10-02-2004, 06:58
I have always done my own B&W film and printing. With my next batch of film I am going to take it to my local lab after processing and have them scan the film for me, before I cut the strips. They will scan for a very reasonable fee and the convenience of this may be worthwhile. If nothing else, it will be a "digitized" contact sheet to work from. I have read with great interest the comments regarding the Epson 2200 -- although it's hard to imagine replacing conventional printing I must keep an open mind.
D2
Pherdinand
10-02-2004, 09:59
In the last year i started to seriously consider developing my own. Alas, this is the period when i don't have time for it, so might be something for the future... Used darkroom equipment is very cheap, in some cases even free, if i take care of the transport :)
Anyway, a question bugs me. How good is the result if you develop your B&W neg, scan it and let a lab print it? And, first of all, do they print it specially as black and white? Or just like anything C-41?
The reason for asking it is, here it's very expensive to get traditional black and white processed and printed...and the quality, especially for speeds above 400iso, sucks. If i'd develop the film myself, would get a scanner as I plan to do, and follow the hybrid route, the quality problem would be solvable (said with some self-confidence, ha ha ha) - but if the prints still cost me triple of c-41 (and even more for large prints), then it's not a big help.
P C Headland
10-02-2004, 10:10
I keep thinking I should get around to developing at B+W, now I'm having fun with the MF gear. At the moment, I'm fortunate in that the shop I go to in Amsterdam does a pretty good job, or has done so far, in developing both slide and B+W.
As for printing, I scan the 120 negs on a Epson 3170, and print them on an HP 7660 inkjet - quite satisfactory for A4. The HP has a special "photo gray" cartridge, and does very good B+W prints. Since the print head is in the cartridge, there is no need to set a printer aside for B+W printing. Plus, unlike Epsons, it doesn't clog its nozzles, even after not printing for a couple of months.
As I get more into the B+W side of things, I may just have to get a daylight developing kit, and give things a try (I've done it before, but that was over 20 years ago back in NZ. I do have a little darkroom spot too, setup by the previous occupants).
Originally posted by Pherdinand
Anyway, a question bugs me. How good is the result if you develop your B&W neg, scan it and let a lab print it? And, first of all, do they print it specially as black and white? Or just like anything C-41?
The reason for asking it is, here it's very expensive to get traditional black and white processed and printed...and the quality, especially for speeds above 400iso, sucks.
I've tried that, just for the hell of it - thought the quality wold be waaay below traditional darkroom print.
Surprisingly, the results came out relatively fine. Anyway, I brought them a JPG file of approx. 1600x1200 pix. size, 300 DPI, and the result was printed on the usual Fuji paper they have.
Well, not the *ordinary* one, since they told me I'll have to wait a day or two, since they had to order the paper for this.
As I said, the results are acceptable. The paper was Fujicolor Crystal Archive. The photos *are* a bit different than my darkroom prints, but not bad at all.
The print sizes were 13x18 cm, and the sharpness was quite OK. Not something you'd like to do for an exhibition, but OK.
As for the price, it was the same as for the "ordinary" color print (from color negative film) of the same size.
So, if you REALLY can't do your own B&W, and want B&W prints that won't cost a fortune, this might be a temporary (!) solution.
In the meantime, get the equipment needed (it's cheap these days!), and try doing the B&W stuff yourself. Otherwise, you're missing half the fun!
I mean, shooting a Leica or Bessa (or whatever RF you use), and never having a REAL B&W print done, it's just... unthinkable ;)
Denis
I was surprised to experience how friends, relatives and other people in my neighbourhood - with very fine own digital cameras and so on - got completly overenthusiastic and keen on when thew saw some rather simple B&W homemade (in my bathroom)photos I had of them and other people. And they all asked for copies and more copies.
I thought that my B&W way of taking and making pictures was out of time and onmodern, so their interest of B&W photos of old-fashioned kind astonished me.
So, if You want to get "popular" and cared about, show friends and other people some homemade B&W photos and You´ll be surprised the how high status that old craftsmanship has.
And if You haven´t tried start develop Your own B&W film. It is so easy and cheep. And as a member of a photoclub or so, You can make Your own B&W enlarged copys. It is a thrill to see the picture develop in the developer.
Svante in old Sweden
I've been doing my own b&w for about a year now. Being a cheap way of shooting was my reason. APX400 & Ilfosol to start, a $5- flea market tank and splurged $35- for a change bag. Since then, I've picked up a few more tanks, bulk rolling HP5 & FP4 and souping in HC110, ID11 & Rodinal. Going to try pushing HP5 in Microphen as well.
I scan most of my negs with a Minolta Dual Scan, and sometimes print with my "suitcase" enlarger when I have a late evening free, and have the bathroom to myself for a couple of hours :). This should get easier in the winter months as it gets dark a lot earlier as my bathroom/darkroom isn't dark enough during the day.
Shooting b&w is also the closest I get to "instant" gratification with the RF's (I have the Dreb for the wildlife), since I'll usually finish the roll, and I can have results quickly and cheaply. 1hr labs are either good or cheap, but not both.
Pherdinand
10-03-2004, 08:35
thanks Denis - i might try it after all, sounds better than I thought. One detail: from 1600x1200 pixels and 300 dpi, how did you end up with 13x18?? Shouldn't that be more like 10x15?
I think i need that darn scanner:D Point is, i'd like to use it for 6x6 negs too - which means one of the epson flatbeds. But i constantly hear people complaining about it when used for 35mm negs... I certainly can';t afford a MF film scanner, neither a 35mm film AND flatbed for 6x6.
Originally posted by Pherdinand
thanks Denis - i might try it after all, sounds better than I thought. One detail: from 1600x1200 pixels and 300 dpi, how did you end up with 13x18?? Shouldn't that be more like 10x15?
Don't ask me - the guy said the size isn't that important, the important thing is that the JPG is 300 DPI.
I think i need that darn scanner:D Point is, i'd like to use it for 6x6 negs too - which means one of the epson flatbeds. But i constantly hear people complaining about it when used for 35mm negs... I certainly can';t afford a MF film scanner, neither a 35mm film AND flatbed for 6x6.
The one I use is Microtek ScanMaker 6100 - since you're in Netherlands, I guess it shouldn't be difficult to get it there. I like it - 35mm negs are great, and MF negs are *perfect*! (It's a flatbed, BTW.)
The only thing I did was to make my own MF adapter - the original one allows you only 1 (ONE!) negative (frame) at a time..
So, with some cardboard, glue and xacto knife (scalpel), I made another adapter in about half an hour, and now I can scan 2 negs up to 6x7 size at once. 6x9 size is a little too big to scan two of those at once....
Anyway, check out reviews of Microtek 6100, and see if you can get it in Netherlands - the price should be lower than Epson, and the quality even better - max. scan resolution is 6400!
All photos in my gallery were scanned on Microtek, if that's any help. Everything was shot on Efke KB100, souped in Rodinal 1:50, and scanned on Microtek ScanMaker 6100.
Regards,
Denis
In the last year I finally got around to building a permanent darkroom. SO cool after years of makeshift bathroom set ups. One of the great things for those of us doing this is that prices on the used market for equipment have gotten so low. Safelights, enlargers, timers, easels, etc have gotten laughably cheap.
Interesting thread on photo.net right now on darkroom design:
Tentative Darkroom Plans (http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=009eeZ)
You bet! I just finished 6 rolls of HP5+ tonight from last week's wedding. Here's a photo of my darkroom:
Cool ! What is that nice poster hanging on your wall Frank ?
Frank, that enlarger on the top of your shelf looks like the Meopta Optimus I used years ago before I got a Durst. Is it a Meopta?
Gene
Wall? There's a wall in Frank's darkroom? :rolleyes:
Boy, this one is from way back! it will be interesting to see if any of the earlier contributors have changed their positions!
I don't developpe, never developped, for financial reason nothing more, only big chemical packs available expensive, the lab is CHEAPER.
Boy, this one is from way back! it will be interesting to see if any of the earlier contributors have changed their positions!
You're right -- this is an oldie. Looking back, I still stock only HC-110 and Rodinal and I still scan my B&W negs. I think about my old darkroom gear once in awhile and get a little pang, but common sense prevails and I go back to scanning :)
The only change for me is that I've switched from mixing fixer from powder to using rapid fixer from concentrate.
Gene
With regards to costs, it is a secondary concern. The main reason to develop your own film is control. For example, using a low dilution and stand development for negs which you know that the extreme contrast of the available light will make them difficult to print.
Hmm, let's see. I started developing myself using Diafine two years ago...
And I could still be using the same 1 litre batch if it wasn't by trash rolls which ended being due to reel loading problems.
So I'm on the 2nd litre :) 6 years more and I'll have to go digital. lol.
Oscar
I agree with that,a nd that's the only reaosn i'm sying to do my own films, but it's way too expensive, my point is that already films are costly, so i wouldn't get more than 10 rolls/monththat would cost 200 L.E, an average worker's salary...!
so imagine the same amount to developpe your roll, the thought is nearly impossible, untill i get my own income of coruse, i'm still dependant on my parent.
I don't developpe, never developped, for financial reason nothing more, only big chemical packs available expensive, the lab is CHEAPER.
You sure they're not C41 color chemistry packs? Most BW developers come in small packages, and it's *way* cheaper to process classic BW yourself.
So I'm on the 2nd litre :) 6 years more and I'll have to go digital. lol.
Oscar
By that time they'll be giving them away when you buy a memory card :)
Gene
I do only BW, all developed myself. No lab can do it better, not that I'm an expert, just labs do it worse than I do :)
I do it myself, way cheaper and more fun, at least for 35mm. Rodinal lasts a long time and with a couple of stocked up bottles, I will manage for some years. For 120 it is not as funny as I can only develop one at a time (compared to two 35mm) and with 8-12 shots on a film, it adds up quickly.
The 120 negatives tend to be gorgeous! But, scanning is a pain for 35mm, and much worse for 120.
I tend to have a backlog as a result. From time to time I get thoughts about using digital cameras more. But film cameras are better and cheaper (though I pay with my spare time), and I like to have negatives.
/Håkan
You sure they're not C41 color chemistry packs? Most BW developers come in small packages, and it's *way* cheaper to process classic BW yourself.
I still have kodak to ask...But yes so far, epopel have shown me what they have, add to this not many people developpe B&W these days...
Kodak should be the worst of all or my angels...But i doubt it, they already denied me photopapers last month...:mad:
Uncle Bill
07-28-2006, 06:37
I started developing my own film a few months ago, I won't go back. It's only a matter of time until I get a durst enlarger and really head down that slippery slope.
Bill
robert blu
07-28-2006, 06:57
more or less 30 years ago I developped personally my last B&W film. Than for years and years only colour slides. Since one year partially back to B&W, I have a friend developping that for me, but planning to start again (still have an old tank!). Also trying XP2, but not yet decided if satisfied or not. Plan is film, developping, scanning and inkjet printing. I have seen amazing results. Not the same as wet printing. but Why have to look the same ? It s a different thing and must look like something different, which in my opinion does not necessary means bad ! Process still on going !
traveller
07-28-2006, 08:58
I started developing my own film a few months ago, I won't go back. It's only a matter of time until I get a durst enlarger and really head down that slippery slope.
Bill
That's how it starts. Now I got everything in place and it's too hot to start printing :bang:. But the weather report for next week sounds good and than I'll see how slippery the slope is....
micromontenegro
07-28-2006, 10:58
I develope 100% of my 35mm and smaller B&W. Always had, probably always will. Use Tetenal Ultrafin almost exclusively. Sometimes I farm out 120 negatives, when I am feeling lazy, 'cause some of those are darn hard to get into the reels.
Sadly, I don't print anymore. Too messy. But every other month I remember that time when I was six and my brother took me into the darkroom and teached me the basicis... and I start some heavy thinking about getting some trays (don't have any now) and firing up the big Besseler 45 again. So maybe next month...
Boy, this one is from way back! it will be interesting to see if any of the earlier contributors have changed their positions!
just a slight change in position here, Chris. I am considering a film scanner as well as keeping the traditional darkroom.
There be 4 walls to my darkroom, Earl.
Thanks Rich. I am lucky to have a spare bedroom in my house that was next to the bathroom and plumbing.
Gelmir, that's a history of Nikon camera bodies poster on the wall.
That is a Meopta enlarger sitting on the shelf, Gene. I recently gave it to a neighbour's son who is showing some interest in photography. (I have several other enlargers.)
I just started (last week) developing my own B&W negatives in 120 and 35mm size. I love it! To keep it simple I chose Diafine, and even simpler: found an unused, almost new darkroom on campus with a supply of fixer included! How happy was I? Total cost? Just enough to cover the Diafine and a lot of expired film that cost me nothing (once I resold all the undesired color and chrome film). I've developed about 5 rolls of 120 so far--and am very pleased.
Although I've got two enlargers at my disposal (both 35mm only I think) I'm scanning my negatives and will print on an inkjet, using a black-only process.
narsuitus
07-28-2006, 12:43
Years ago, I shot a lot of black & white film and developed my own.
Today, I rarely shoot small and medium format black & white film.
However, I still shoot and develop my own large format black & white film.
I also shoot and develop my own small and medium format E-6 slide film.
I no longer perform optical printing. Instead, I scan negative and positive film and print digitally.
robert blu
07-28-2006, 13:14
when i was used to the darkroom it was for me exciting and relaxing in the same time. But it was many (ehm, too many) years ago and I was single.
One of the reason for which I would like to try inkjet B&W printing is that because of my job I already spend many nights and days away from home. Many times I leave on monday and come back on friday. I would not feel confortable to closmyself in the darkroom and leave my wife alone when I'm back. But our flat is organized as an open space: she can sit and watch television and I can sit a couple of meter away and work on the computer. Meantime we can exchamge comments, ideas, laugh and do not feel isolate. Let say it is more socially friendly !
Vagabond
07-28-2006, 13:35
I guess it's the smell of Stop Bath that I'm addicted to.
Tmax film with Tmax developer in a Paterson tank. What can I say, I'm lazy.
After the negs are dry, I'll scan them as JPEGs @ 72ppi. These serve as on screen proofs. If I think anything is worth it, I'll rescan as TIFFs at the highest resolution (Minolta Scan Dual III) and work on them in PhotoShop. Since the number of "keepers" is usually rather low, this saves a lot of time and disk space.
Using a changing bag along with this eliminates the need for a wet darkroom. The kitchen sink works just fine.
Urged on by this thread, and finishing a roll of Pan-F in the M2 the other day, I broke down and cleared enough junk out of the darkroom to make room to develop the 7 accumulated films. One roll 120 HP5, three of 220 Tri-X Pro, one 35mm Tri-X and two 35mm Pan-F. Dial thermometer said the solutions were at 79 degrees so that's the temp I set the mixing faucet for rinces and washes. I had a fresh gallon mix of Diafine in distilled water waiting, and over several months I noticed that the undesolved particles in B had gradually dissolved into the mix.
I ran the three 35mm rolls in a 4-roll 32-oz Kindermann tank, and did the 120/220 two at a time in a 44-oz Kindermann tank. So I operated two tanks at the same time for the first group and then the other two 220 rolls in a second run. Handy to have the gallon kit of Diafine and gallons of Rapid Fix and Hype Clear too.
The three rolls of 220 had been shot last October, so it's been a while. All the negs look fine except a mysterious underexposure on half of one Pan-F roll shot in an Olympus Pen, exposure errors I guess. But I'm looking forward to seeing some scans!
I got a camera shop to develop my b/w negs one time because it cost me a damn fortune, $21 for a roll of 24 and they wouldn't even make a contact sheet for me. Its cheaper to develop myself and I have full artistic control.
shutterflower
07-28-2006, 21:13
I do all my own B&W, but send all the color to a lab. Of course.
When the pics REALLY matter, I don't chance it with my limited abilities, and send the B&W also to the lab.
I do 85% home B+W, including the printing. Getting real image quality into and back out of the comuter frustrated me into it...
I still shoot and process b/w but that may change because I really like the files from my LX-1 converted to b/w and will also get the GR-D soon.
Phoenix Phil
07-28-2006, 21:55
I develop all of my own b&w in order to control the quality and learn what controls are available to me. It is the simplest thing to do (developing film) and you can learn a lot doing your own. I didn't even need a darkroom when I first started developing my own film.
stephen_lumsden
07-29-2006, 06:52
Hi
I have never had the space to develop or print myself and the b/w group at the local camera club always seem rather coy about helping in this direction, and I reckon it would take years to get up to speed in any case, which is not very encouraging these days with the onset of digital.
So I have decided to go down the slide route with dr5.com and see how they do it. I can always scan the postives myself and they will look lovely on a projected screen. I think that way I can maintain some control without spending a fortune getting prints.
regards
Stephen
Gabriel M.A.
07-29-2006, 07:08
Ah, the double-edged sword of "digital": it is thanks to my scanner(s) that I can develop my B&W film in my hypervirtual darkroom (read: bathroom), and scan my film. No need to have a "real" printer/enlarger, sink, washer, drier, etc. When I own a place with a basement, everybody knows what will happen to it.
Nachkebia
08-03-2006, 08:08
Just got 5 pack of T-max developer with 2 packs of D-76 powder :) finaly I can try something else than Ilford Ilfosol :)
I do all my b&w (now including LF 4x5) in the kitchen sink. A quart bottle of Clayton F76+ costs about $11 US, at 1:9 dilution that allows you to do a lot of film at 1:19 even more:)
steve garza
08-03-2006, 10:35
Just got 5 pack of T-max developer with 2 packs of D-76 powder :) finaly I can try something else than Ilford Ilfosol :)
push-processing and fine for normal development as well. I started developing this year after getting tired of putting the money out. I've not had much success with Rodinal and need to use my supply before it goes bad on me. According to the directions it's only good for 6 months after opening the container. I use a dark bag to load the film then scan my negs and send the color out. My kitchen in the guest house serves as a great workspace. Thanks for the re-modeling job Dad!! I'm toying with the idea of purchasing a rotary processor and developing my own color. I rarely have prints made and usually they're 8x10 or larger when I do. I do intend to start printing next year during a photo class at SMC. I've decided to take the inro course this year to bone up and instill a little direction in myself.
nightfly
08-03-2006, 10:44
Rodinal and need to use my supply before it goes bad on me. According to the directions it's only good for 6 months after opening the container.
I've had open bottles of Rodinal last for literally years after they were openend with no visible loss of effectiveness. Don't believe the hype.
Junkie is probably an understatement, in my case. I develop and print all of my B&W, from 35mm through 8x10. I also formulate my own developers. You can read about two of my favorites here:
http://www.digitaltruth.com/techdata/article-stainingdev.php
You can see some beautiful results from 510-Pyro in Todd Hanzelka's work. Developing film is easy, cheap, and allows total creative and quality control. The developers I've formulated are unique, and nothing like them is available commercially. By using a dilute solution, the cost of developing a roll of film can be as low as a little over one penny! The results are what matter most, and these developers deliver. Hypercat is easily among the sharpest developers ever formulated.
It doesn't take much space to develop roll film. I developed my film in a bathroom, at night, before getting my first real darkroom. The process I use for developing film requires a developer, which in my case is a highly concentrated stock solution that is diluted for one-shot use, a neutral rapid TT fixer, and a wetting agent, all of which would fit in a shoe box, with room left over for the developing tank, a graduate, and a thermometer. A digital kitchen timer that times in seconds/minutes makes a good process timer, and can be had for a few $$. Developing film is cheap and easy, and anyone can do it.
Printing, on the other hand, is much more demanding of $$ and space, and requires a more or less permanent space to be practical and enjoyable. I'm learning, with help, the ins and outs of film scanning, and hope one day to make digitally enlarged negatives for contact printing. Digital printing is also expensive, and requires a dedicated space to be practical and enjoyable, but I have very limited experience in that area.
When we grow up, we have to find something creative, and something physical to play with, or we get fat and go insane. For me, my darkroom is my creative playground, and bikes, and rivers keep me from getting too fat to fit into it.
Jay
Unless you use chromogenic it is more convenient to dev your own especially if you have a scanner. Ive single 35mm tanks and two off 5x 35mm tanks, and clips and clothes pins for batch processing.
The supermarket processor (for chromogenic) is 1 mile walk away, and is not that cheap.
My problem is I need to refoam my Ru spy style suitcase enlarger, and I dont know what happens when my last bulb goes.
Noel
P.S. opened Rodinal lasts for decades my current bottle is from 70s, I discarded a bottle from '60 believing the hype, waaaaaaah, just replace screw cap and dont filter the residue in bottom, the residue indicates the developer will last longer, also ignore the nice black tea colour this indicates it is +6m old and becoming mature like good wine.
ZorkiKat
10-05-2006, 08:24
My problem is I need to refoam my Ru spy style suitcase enlarger, and I dont know what happens when my last bulb goes.
Noel
.
Noel
If your Russian enlarger is the same as the one I have in mind, looking for replacement bulbs aren't a trouble at all. I've used an ordinary 60W household lamp (with Edison screw) for one. Success will depend on the type of lamp used- go for the traditional pear-shaped bulbs rather than one of the fancy bell-shapes. Select one with an even frosting. Sometimes a piece of frosted glass in the filter drawer helps.
I still have a 'toy' Chinese plastic enlarger. Not too different in design from the Rus suitcase enlarger, except for being rendered in heat-absorbent(!) plastic and the lack of 'autofocus'. Though normal enlarger lenses should be used with it, its instructions mention that it can use normal 75-100W household lamps. It does.
Jay
Jay
Thanks much appreciated I'll go to sofa refurb place for foam offcuts ASAP. Yes it has the autofocus capability, Ive always wondered why I had not seen posts on it.
Noel
P.S. I should not ask but do your cats become curious about the dismantled cameras?
Stephanie Brim
10-05-2006, 09:29
Still developing and experimenting. I love it. It's what keeps me interested in different films. "I wonder how THIS film will look in THIS developer?" Etc. I don't think I've found my perfect film/developer combination yet, but I'm close.
Still developing and experimenting. I love it. It's what keeps me interested in different films. "I wonder how THIS film will look in THIS developer?" Etc. I don't think I've found my perfect film/developer combination yet, but I'm close.
by numerous preaching of rodinal, i thought you have already nailed it. are you just moving internet knowledge from one place to the other?
by numerous preaching of rodinal, i thought you have already nailed it. are you just moving internet knowledge from one place to the other?
I love internet knowledge. Did you know that the birth rate of elephants has tripled over the past year? :o
I love internet knowledge. Did you know that the birth rate of elephants has tripled over the past year? :o
no, i did not. good to know.
internet also says that the global warming is just a theory.
SolaresLarrave
10-05-2006, 15:29
Just learned to soup film... My first attempt was very successful, the following two... were not. But heck, it's all in the sleigh of hand, right? :)
So, right now I'm stuck using D-76. Not that I don't like it, it's simply that I won't go in a wild goose chase looking for a developer/fixer combo I like, simply because I don't know what's there to like about the result: as long as my negatives are viewable and render decent scans to print, I'll be happy.
BTW, I'm an Ilford film devotee... that I already know! :)
Just learned to soup film... My first attempt was very successful, the following two... were not.
Exactly what happened to me :) Then I devised a system for myself, and it seems to work well. It's simply a matter of maitaining consistency. When you get good, you can start playing as if you are cooking (where you don't follow recipes exactly).
I'm late to the thread. I develop all my B&W film. I do it in my kitchen. I love being able to come home from shooting, pop on the headphones, and immediately develop everything I've shot. It's very convenient, and I love being right there to see how they come out.
I use HC-110 developer. My last two rolls, though, have seemed a little off. I need to shoot one more before I can figure it out. It's either that my thermometer is giving me bad readings, so I'm slightly underdeveloping, or it's something in my chemicals. Or, uh, it's something in my shooting.
After they've dried I cut 'em up and scan the ones I like. I used to have a darkroom in my garage, for printing, and it was on the verge of taking over my life -- I would spend four hours at a time working on a single photo -- but then I had to move (but it was one of the perks of living with three photography students).
Figuring out everything I needed for developing was a tad daunting, but of course there are many nice checklists on websites. But it's not too difficult, and it's definitely worth it.
Wayne R. Scott
10-05-2006, 20:30
Boy, this one is from way back! it will be interesting to see if any of the earlier contributors have changed their positions!
I hadn't read this thread recently, because I thought I had answered a similar one a while back. Lo and behold it was this very thread that I answered!!
I have changed a little, I have added 5x7 and 8x10 negatives to my developing. I have been using Diafine for my developer in addition to D-76.
I just recently bought an Epson 4990 scanner (about 2 days before they went on clearance for $200 less than I paid). I am luke warm about scanning right now, probably due to my not progressing up the scanning learning curve very quickly.
Wayne
Stephanie Brim
10-06-2006, 13:50
8x10? 8x10?!?
Let me sit here for a minute and try and get my mind around negatives about 4 times the size of 4x5.
...
*faints*
Er, yeah. 8x10 is pretty, but I still wonder how everyone can afford to buy film. I don't care how much money you make...regardless, it's STILL expensive. ;)
I develop my own black and white - mostly delta 100 and 400 - in Ilford chemistry. Perceptol is my favourite but also use DDX. The thing that still amazes me is just how easy it is to do your own processing!
Currently, I scan the negs using a KM Elite 5400 - using either Vuescan or Silverfast Ai - and get the printing done by Peak Imaging or supply as TIF files to clients. The results aren't bad...but I'm looking at buying an enlarger and doing it the traditional way...everything I read says that provides far superior results...time to find out.
David
reub2000
10-06-2006, 14:19
I'm currently developing film at my high school for photography class. It's kind of boring shaking a thermos like canister for 10 minutes. Now printing is fun. It's under a safe light, development takes around 2 minutes, and you can see the print while it's developing. And I can kind of chimp while printing.
Also, B&W processing is really expensive. $15/roll for development and a contact sheet. Almost double for pushing.
I'm amazed this old thread suddenly came to life again, but I've noticed an increase in the number of people posting that they've started developing B&W film. I think that's great.
I re-read my starting post and nothing has changed for me since then. I've tried a few other developers, namely D-76 and X-Tol, liked them, but returned to my original two: HC-110 and Rodinal. I prefer a long-lasting concentrate and both of these developers turn out good results with slightly different personalities. I like HC-110 for pushing and Rodinal for pulling.
I'm still shooting Tri-X mainly, supplemented with some slower films such as Acros 100. I have some Pan-F to try but haven't got there yet. I miss APX 100. Neopan 400 is also excellent. I don't use T-grain films much.
Still scanning rather than running a darkroom. It works fine for my needs, though my hat's off to anyone doing wet printing. Wet prints are beautiful when done skillfully.
Gene
phototone
10-06-2006, 19:24
44 years now, never stopped.
I`ve just started processing B&W, after a very long time. Dug out all the old gear, mixed up a batch of ID-11, fumbled around under the bed clothes LOADING FILM !! Poured in the ID-11 @ 1-1, and 12 mins later Hey Presto !! MAGIC. I even processed a roll of exposed 20yr. Plus-X , a bit flat, but certainly acceptible.
reub2000
10-06-2006, 22:21
Still scanning rather than running a darkroom. It works fine for my needs, though my hat's off to anyone doing wet printing. Wet prints are beautiful when done skillfully.Your missing a lot of the fun by not making enlargements.
tedwhite
10-06-2006, 23:10
I have my own lab on the first floor of an old hotel that's no longer a hotel, so the rent's cheap. Contains my Simmons/Omega B22XL and a motorized Beseler 45. They are both quite old, but neither seems to work any differently then when they were new. Also a ten foot long tub sink. Possibly the only darkroom in America with a 14 foot high celing. Do I make enlargements? Of course. But the bane of my existence is that I can't get Agfa Portriga Rapid anymore. Developer? D76 and Dektol. Film? PlusX, TriX, HP4, TMAX 100, and Fomapan 200.
Ted
Harry Lime
10-17-2006, 21:16
I've always developed my own black and white film for a few reasons.
For one thing getting b/w developed at the lab is expensive. It would push my per roll cost to a solid $10-15 dollars, and I would rather put the money into buying more film. Tri-X isn't getting any cheaper...
Another reason why I prefer to develop my own film is control.
I can match developers to certain stocks.
Generally my slower films (100asa) are developed in Rodinal.
Tri-X does into Ilford DD-X or Divided D76.
Delta3200 or anything that needs to be push processed ends up in DD-X.
And of course I can vary the development time etc, depending on what look I am after.
And finally there is the simple convenience of being able to develop a roll when ever it pleases me.;)
I still make wet prints in the 'darkroom', but it's difficult for me, because I don't have a permanent setup. My free time is also limited and I would rather be shooting.
So, I purchased a good Nikon scanner and output via the Fuji LightJet. I can't wait for Ilford to ship their new glossy fiber paper for digital enlargers.
Cheers,
HL
Phoenix Phil
10-17-2006, 21:25
Harry, I agree with you. I love developing my own film. I do a little exploring of different developers, dilutions, and times to maximize the film's capabilities. Originally, I did it because that was what I had to do and also it was the cheapest way to explore the subject of photography. It seems that the labs never could do as well as could do even as a rank beginner.
For those that have not tried it, it takes only a minimal amount of equipment. A developing tank, three dark bottles (or bottles stored in a dark area) and thermonmeter. Get some developer, fixer and photo-flo and you're set. I would load the tank in a dark room and hang the developed film in a bathroom (least dusty of the rooms). In about 30 minutes from start to clean-up, I would have film hanging to dry.
Now, I am exploring mixing my own developer so that I can learn more and to find one that will last a long time so I won't pollute the planet as much.
Best of luck,
Phil
giellaleafapmu
10-18-2006, 08:34
I put "Yes I am still addicted" but what I should have put (if such a box existed) should have been: "yes, for convenience". To develope a couple of roll of film I just put them in the tank and do all the work in about 1 hour, including washing, in order to obtain exactly the negative I want. If I expose in a special way I know it, and I also know what kind of contrast and rendering of shadows and highlights I like. Then I enlarge exactly what I like the way I like. Sometimes after I enlarge a picture and look at it I might come out with some idea (cropping, solarization, whatever...). If I had to use a lab I should walk more or less 40' speak with the chap about what I did and how I want him to develope my work, then walk another 40' and wait and hope one day before having negatives which possibly are as I want but possibly are not. Assuming they are I should then explain to him how do I want them printed. Any fine tuning would be done on 40'+40' walks, hope, and a lot of explanations to end, in the best case, with something I like but which I only partially created... No thanks!
Convenience could be going digital or shoting Polaroids. Digital is ok, but if I have to choose I prefer spending two hours in the darkroom rather than 2 hours in front of a computer screen (I already have to spend many hours in front of a computer for my work). Polaroids are great but they are a completely different game: no enlargement (unless you use a positive-negative one, but then you are back to darkroom), only one copy, reduced choice in many things, so they are only for some special applications (the positive things, for memebers of this list, is that they are mostly rangefinder cameras!).
Giella lea Fapmu
FilteredLight
10-18-2006, 13:58
I use Diafine and rate Tri-X at 1250 ASA. Chromes I let labs develop.
I used to make wet prints back in the '70s, but I have to say I didn't find it the transcendental experience some others seem to enjoy. Lots of hours trying to get it right, and I won a local photo contest with one of my B&W prints, but still--I'd rather scan and print digitally. Let's not even go into dodging, burning, bleaching, dyeing, etc.
Another task I'd rather not revisit: developing E-6.
Developing B&W 135 and 120 is fun, though. One of my favorite magical moments is the simultaneous expectation and surprise of seeing what thought I saw when I originally took the picture after I develop the film. Digital doesn't have that magic--it always seems like a deterministic process to me: okay I made picture A, and I will apply filter B in Photoshop, etc. With film, you take a picture of a scene that you imagine will look a certain way, and it always has a surprising difference. Especially with a Holga!
eli griggs
10-23-2006, 19:17
When I started photography, back in the mid '70s, I did all my own film and print work, almost from the begining. For a long while there, in the army, I could shoot a can a week (100 ft.) and I think I even had a few weeks i shot two cans. Latter on, when Cibichrome came out, I started bulk rolling Ektachrome and learned to develop with E-6 chemicals. I shot a lot of macro stuff and birds while stationed in the Marshall Islands and after I ETSed, shot a lot of dancers, both ballet and modern. The colors were fantastic and the cibi prints were better (IMO) than anything you could get, short of a master custom lab or professional dye transfer prints.
Later on, as a freelancer, I would do b&w work as a service to other photographers, both product and people. I loved to put in long days printing, especially if it was a model shoot, my own or someone else. Those types of work allow for a lot of experimenting and I did a lot of bleaching and toning for effects that could not be had from other sources.
When I became ill and stopped working in 1990 to become an at home parent, I gave up photography and not until the last few months did I pick it up again.
Tonight there was an email informing me that the last of my chemicals, needed for my b&w darkroom setup, will arrive by UPS tomorrow; thirteen pounds of sodium sulfite...you can do a lot of damage with that... I can hardly wait.
My opinion has always been that, if you shoot b&w, your missing 60% of the thrill if you're not doing your own stuff.
Cheers
And cheers to you, Eli, on your return to the darkroom! You're going to have fun... :)
MelanieC
10-24-2006, 00:47
I develop black and white because I can't afford to take it to a lab and because it's so damn easy. Also, the labs that do a really good job are kind of a pain in the ass to get to, while the labs that are convenient for me do a crap job that I can easily surpass even with my toddler-like capabilities. Also, it's fun to be able to see my negatives the day I shot them, if I want to.
I've only used D-76 so far and am pretty happy with it. Recently I even ventured into the 1:1 dilution and finally started to understand the difference between "worse" and "better" when it comes to results. Eventually I may branch out.
Rolls that are actually important (like, the photos from my brother's wedding) I don't develop myself. I'm sure they would probably come out fine, but I worry about random accidents or mental lapses.
Flyfisher Tom
11-14-2006, 02:35
HC-110 and Xtol are my favorites, although I've got some Microphen I've been meaning to try for some serious pushing.
Films: Tri-x, neopan. Tri-x because it is grainy, neopan because of its wonderfully smooth tonality.
like2fiddle
11-14-2006, 06:46
Got into BW developing and printing because my now teenaged son developed a serious interest in photography fairly early on in life. We're currently rebuilding the darkroom into a more permanent set-up. We started in a bathroom at night, then moved to the utility room in the basement, again only at night. We live in the country so outside light from windows is not an issue unless the moon is shining. We are currently closing in a room in the basement that will be the "official darkroom".
Roll our own HP5, use D76, Dektol, Ilford paper, Kodak paper, Vivitar and BIG old Omega enlargers. Have done a little 120 developing and printing - need a better MF camera. (I think he wants one for Christmas!)
Roger
emraphoto
11-14-2006, 22:04
don't see it very often here but mainly tmax 100 and 400. souped up in tmax developer. scanned via epson 4490 and voila!!! it may take an hour or two longer than usb 2.0 but mmmm b+w film.
I use mostly Ilford Pan-F*, FP4* and HP5* (50, 125, 400 ASA), Fuji Neopan 1600, Ilford Delta 3200. The films with * I have in a large stock of bulk rolls.
All souped in Ilfotec LC29 in 1+19 dilution, which gives me processing times from 4 min. (Pan-F) to 14.30 min. (Delta 3200). I use one dilution 3 times with +10%, +20% prolongation for the second and third bath. The processing times are mostly around the standards as indicated by Ilford, or by PHOTOTEC Entwicklungszeitenrechner (http://www.phototec.de/infomag_erechner.php) (online processing time calculator).
I use Ilford stop bath, Ilford Rapid fixer and Kodak cleaning agent as well.
Wet prints have become very seldom here since I scan the negs direc tly after they have been dried.
Didier
PHOTOEIL
11-14-2006, 23:20
I was 16 when I developed my first film (AGFA PAN 400) and printed the negs., I NEVER stopped doing so (I am 48 now).
I am still doing this professionally ( see http://www.photoeil.be/books/megalyth/stilte.der.stenen.html ; http://www.photoeil.be/books/wrapping/wrapcover.html ; http://www.photoeil.be/books/roth/dieter-roth.html ), the last book was shot on DELTA 100 reversal developed in my Collenta AT60 (in home brewed recipes). I do my E-6 in the Collenta to (see my other (cookery-) books). Wonderful machine, very stable ( 90 lit. water jacket) and flexible (microprocessor controlled programming). The B&W negative is still done by hand.
I bought it used and built an extra darkroom for it, it took me at least two months to learn to control the E-6 processing and the B&W reversal. Here in town there are no E-6 pro labs any more, they got killed by digital...
As long as I have the clients asking for work on film, I will go on like this, I know that soon or later I will have to convert to digital, no problem to me.
But will go on on film when ever possibel.
Good luck to you all,
I opt for the convenience and quality of the Kodak Chromogenic B&W films (T400CN, now Portra 400CN). The films are finer grained and have more exposure lattitude and sharpness than most conventional 100 ISO silver halide film. I do want to re-set-up our B&W darkroom at work and make some nice fiber prints though. I'll even mix my own developer from scratch for that.
Snowbanks, Boston (T400CN) (http://www.people.fas.harvard.edu/~keirst/city/boston12.html)
I've done my own B&W for over thirty years, but sometimes I've been more intense at it than at others. Lately, though, I've been doing more and more hand processing and printing. Mainly for two reasons, one, as others have mentioned, for the control and quality that only a very specialized (and costly) B&W lab could match. The other is for escape. I love to "get away from it" in my darkroom, there is something that working with my hands and mind to create a tangible result right before my eyes that I just can't seem to get from the digital workflow. Not that I don't like digital for some work, but somehow I don't find it as satisfying. I have a full wet darkroom with a 4X5 enlarger, and space to do up to 16X20 prints, I sometimes wish I could go a bit bigger though.
For film processing I use either XTOL or Rodinal, shooting with PanF, HP5, or Fuji Acros 100, and others from time to time.
A new minilab for film and digital opened up nearby recently, and I sometimes take a roll of 35mm hand processed film B&W in for prints, this saves me the time and money of making proofs myself, as I find 35mm contacts too small to judge from. This has worked successfully, as they haven't wrecked my film (yet) and the prints are not bad. From here I can make bigger and better as I wish.
I should also confess that I was a professional darkroom printer for about thirty years, before almost all pro labs went digital, so I do have the skills.
Now I fly a Mac and a Durst Lambda digital printer system, so I think that is part of my motivation also, going back to doing what I know and still love to do.
I started developing b&w when I was 11 and still do it. I now take all of my color work in though.
Northern_Bliss
12-15-2006, 20:40
Yup, still at it! Mostly using Kodak XTol dev. 1:1 for most of my films (Tri-x, HP5+, Delta 100 and 400, Acros) but always willing to experiment with any film/dev. combo. I do miss having a permanent darkroom setup for wet printing though.
I've been development my own film for almost a year and a half now, both black and white and chromes. I could not see sending out my B&W to a lab ever again lol (unless it was c41 or E6 then maybe, and only if it was 35mm or such).
I like to be able to control my image from start to finish, and I like to be able to have the knowledge to do so especially if I runinto that odd film size.
Pherdinand
12-16-2006, 13:37
OK - how can I change my vote? :D
tedwhite
12-16-2006, 17:50
From what to what?
Started this again after a long lay off 2 years ago. Favourite thing - a roll of Foma or Adox 100 and some Rodinal. Also love Delta 400 in DDX. The strangest thing of all (to me) is that I finally mastered steel developing tanks and spirals. I can now load these easier and quicker than the Paterson plastic types and it gives me immense satisfaction.
Pherdinand
12-17-2006, 09:15
Ted - from 'not yet' to 'yes i do'
dpetrzelka
12-17-2006, 15:07
I started developing B+W in high school-- T-Max in Xtol
My favorite for 120 has been Tri-X or HP5 in Xtol. Having just got back into 35mm I'm excited to also start experimenting with film/developer combos.
Developing at home is so easy, and rewarding, everyone should at least give it a try.
comp_wiz101
12-17-2006, 16:34
I strictly shoot film, and only the colour film goes to the lab - I don't have the budget for it!. B&W though, is all my own work. I just finished mixing some Ilford ID-11 so I can develop the negs from my Kiev 88...
sweathog
08-06-2007, 10:45
I do at college, but don't have darkroom access outside of term time.
So yes, when I can.
robbiechad
08-06-2007, 11:18
Hi, I develop my own film here are a couple of pics from last week, shot on a Olympus Mju II agfa APX400 developed in a Jessops brew similar to Acutol for 12 mins.
topoxforddoc
08-06-2007, 11:38
Usually HP5 in Ilfosol, although I used to like Tetenal Neofin a lot in the past. Got some X-Tol too, but just haven't made it up yet.
Charlie
John Robertson
08-06-2007, 18:17
Done my own B/W and colour since I can remember.I remember the Ferrania colour slide process in the 60's, thirteen different stages, including holding a 100watt bulb over a bowl of water with the film in it, usually with wet hands. A good way to electrocute yourself, 240volts + water is not a good mix!!! If you got it all right (most of the time) you got a nice set of colour slides, if not , a clear piece of film with the emulsion as a slimy black goo running down the middle!!!
B/W developer is usually Rodinal, since 1956, but lately T-Max and Moersch Finol. I enjoy the processing side, its part of the whole process for getting a nice image.
An elderly photographer friend once said that getting someone else to process your film, was like finding a beautiful woman, then bringing her home for someone else to make love to!!!:eek:
John (who at 60+ still has enough energy to process my own!!;) )
I quit souping my own film when I got too old to lure teenage girls into the darkroom to "help me make a print."
I quit souping my own film when I got too old to lure teenage girls into the darkroom to "help me make a print."
When would that be? I can't think of an age when such a thing could happen. Hugh Hefner surely doesn't care yet. I don't know if he has a darkroom, though. :)
John Robertson
08-07-2007, 11:28
There are pubs in London with "darkrooms" but I believe they are not for developing films!
I have absolutely no idea what they are used for:rolleyes:
tedwhite
08-07-2007, 14:07
When I taught Introduction to Black and White Photography at the local college we had a large lab with 10 enlargers. The class was limited to 12 students, and on average 10 were young women. Labs lasted 2.5 hours.
It was a difficult job.
yes, i i develop my own B&w film since few months. I'm quite happy with the results i get, however i would like to test other combos like Tri-x + rodinal @ 800 or @ 200
for the moment, i developped Ilford FP4 @ 400 in D76
and Tri-x @ 400 in D76
newsgrunt
08-26-2007, 18:37
Got some 8x10 film washing right now (sorry not rf).
Also process 35 ,120 and 4x5. Been using Rodinal for awhile but am getting into PMK Pyro. Haven't done a side by side between PMK and Rodinal but imagine they'd be close. All my chems are concentrate and haven't used powdered stuff in ages.
Spent the last year slowly getting the darkroom back in shape and although I miss shooting the breeze with friends at the lab, I rather enjoy pulling the film off the reels and seeing the results. Still has that magic.
edit: shooting APX 400 and Tri X and what's left of my Forté sheet film.
hi guys,
do you have opinions on tri-x developped in D76 @ 1600 ?
Bob Michaels
08-28-2007, 15:58
While the primary reason I develop my own b&w is control, convenience is a close second.
It's very inconvenient to have to drop off film and then go back and pick it up. Plus, it's at their schedule which is never on a Saturday or Sunday night.
It is most convenient for me to spend 30 minutes total to develop my own b&w film. That's 30 minutes from loading film into the tank to hanging it to dry, even with a 8-9 minute developing time. I can't get to the lab in that time, much less come back home. And then there is the return trip to pick up the film.
Cost? I computed it's less than 25 cents a roll for chemistry. Some say you need to factor in your own time. If so, the cost to drive to the lab twice makes it very expensive to have someone else process it.
So no matter if I give consideration to 1) control, 2) convenience, 3) turnaround time, or 4) cost, doing it myself wins.
tedwhite
08-28-2007, 22:35
Samsam:
Forget it. You'll give up too much in image quality. better to get some Fuji Neopan 1600 - you'll get the same speed and a non-stressed image.
However, that's merely my take on it.
Ted
thomasw_
08-28-2007, 22:59
both. i am going back to developing my own bw film because it is more convenient than waiting a good week or 2. "develop and scan as long as i can" ....sounding like theodore geisel:)
Yes, I just started this week :)
I tried Fujifilm Darkless and found that it sucks. Using the old reel, tank & chemicals is much easier and provides consistent results. MUCH more convenient than having to trek to the store, drop it off, wait 2~3 business days, go back to pick it up and pay.
Been developing for a couple of years, started with D76 1:1 now HC110. Just started printing. Use a lot of Foma paper, easy to work with and cheap enough to make the mistakes more bearable.
Jon
Morca007
10-26-2007, 12:37
I really need a better way to dry my film.
The roll I did the other day is beautiful, minus all the scratches it acquired from my "microfiber" cloth. :(
350D_user
10-26-2007, 12:44
I really need a better way to dry my film.
The roll I did the other day is beautiful, minus all the scratches it acquired from my "microfiber" cloth. :(
A drop of washing-up liquid in the tank, once the final wash has been done, then hang the film up to dry, I get no scratches on the film. :)
yaadetgar
10-28-2007, 09:02
Yes,
I still develop B&W films!
Today, I'm using digital a lot, but I still use film cameras, and I think that B&W is much MUCH better by film, and when I'm photographing B&W it's always by film.
I use only Tmax 100 now, and I'm home developing them with Kodak developers. I prefer a Tmax developer, but HC-110 is good also.
After that I mostly scan the films now, 'cause I don't have an enlarger at home...
That's all.
Yaad Etgar
minoltist7
11-14-2007, 05:13
I develop BW myself in the spiral tank.
then I scan it on my Nikon Coolscan IV and print in digital minilab (I don't have enlarger).
unfortunately, quality of digital prints from scanned BW is mediocre, becouse of graininess and partial loss of half-tones.
but for color slide (Velvia, Sensia, Ektachrome) it's ok - almost the same as from digital camera
I'd like to get a good enlarger and print myself
minoltist7
11-17-2007, 10:09
I really need a better way to dry my film.
The roll I did the other day is beautiful, minus all the scratches it acquired from my "microfiber" cloth. :(
I developed a my own safe drying practice:
1)wash film with dishwashing liquid (1 small drop to the processing tank)
2)wash it 2 or 3 times with distilled water - it's important! do not use water from the bathrum tap for the final rinse. Distilled is sometimes hard to get (in auto parts stores, maybe). So I found an alternative. I buy a pure water for drinking (in big plastic cans).
after you rinse film, shake it to remove excessive drops of water, hang it in the bathroom, and wipe GENTLY with cotton pads. I found that pads which my wife uses for removing makeup, do not leave scratches or tiny pieces of cotton. Wipe only from the shiny side, not from the emulsion .
Paul McCarthy
12-06-2007, 07:47
I recently rediscovered b&w processing and wonder if anyone else has noticed that when following the manufacturer's instructions regarding developing time that the resulting negative is a bit 'thin'. Recently I have added 15 to 20% to the manufacturer's recommended times and the results are much much better. Nearly excellent in fact. I doubt if it is the developer (I use Ilford ID11) and am left wondering why this should be so? Anyone any ideas?
Bob Michaels
12-06-2007, 19:30
I recently rediscovered b&w processing and wonder if anyone else has noticed that when following the manufacturer's instructions regarding developing time that the resulting negative is a bit 'thin'. Recently I have added 15 to 20% to the manufacturer's recommended times and the results are much much better. Nearly excellent in fact. I doubt if it is the developer (I use Ilford ID11) and am left wondering why this should be so? Anyone any ideas?
Paul, everyone has their idea how to work the processes of exposing and developing to get what they think is a good neg. Certainly no right and no wrong, just differences of opinion. The film and developer manufacturers usually state those exposure indexes and development times are a starting point, or at least say they may be adjusted.
My techniques are the opposite of yours in that I typically develop less but expose more. I would never contend mine is right, it's just what works for me. You should do what works for you.
tedwhite
12-06-2007, 21:42
Paul, I haven't had your experience. I'm a simple guy. I take the manufacturers description of the product at face value. If Kodak says TriX has an ISO of 400, I rate it at ISO 400. If Kodak says develop it in D76 1:1 for X number of minutes, I do that. Always seems to come out just fine.
Back in the sixties I played a lot of Rodinal roulette - 1:50, 1:100, etc. - but finally gave it up.
Currently I'm using two different kinds of TMax, new and old. In my darkroom I have a blow-up of a developing chart for a huge number of b/w films, and as long as I don't forget to distinguish between tmx and tmy I'm OK.
Ted
I am still develop B&W film. These picture do not damaged.
shadowfox
06-02-2008, 13:30
Hah, four years after this poll was started I finally can vote.
Yes, I develop my own B&W now :)
120, 35mm, haven't tried 4x5 yet, still mulling the methods.
Developer? go Clayton, they are cheap, last long, and very nice (both film and paper).
tedwhite
06-02-2008, 21:38
aarathi:
Hi, and welcome to RFF. I get that you develop your own film, but I'm not sure I understand the second sentence.
Do you mean that when you develop your own film that the negatives turn out OK?
vBulletin® v3.6.8, Copyright ©2000-2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.