Zorki 4K - "HOW TO - CLA"

[wolves3012]

Zorki 4K "HOW TO - CLA" here. hope you like it!

NOTE 1 - most photos will be in the posts below the sections - there are more than 5
photos in most sections!

NOTE 2: You can use this for a Zorki 4 as well. Apart from the winder, the two models are identical. To remove the winder knob on the Zorki 4, slacken the small grub-screw in it and then unscrew it. Ignore the parts about the rewind lever and its associated gears thereafter.

NOTE 3: towards the end of the posts there's a link from Vido, who kindly turned this into a PDF file for download.

[wolves3012]

General Precautions, Warnings etc

Firstly, on your own head be it! I accept no responsibility if you decide to take your
camera apart and damage something or can't put it back together. If you are in doubt
about your ability to cope with the work needed, leave it to a professional. You will need
time to complete this task, together with the right tools and somewhere to work and possibly
to leave a part-assembled camera. Good lighting is essential, as is either good eyesight or
the neccessary vision aids! There are many small parts, such as screws, which are easily
lost. Have a sheet of white paper to work on, at least A4 size and preferably A3. Dropped
screws are easier to see on white paper than newspaper, though a larger layer of newspaper
underneath provides a secondary catchment and some absorbency for any spills.

I suggest you read the whole article before you start, that way you'll see what's needed and
what's involved before you bite the bullet. If you intend to leave the job partway, I suggest
putting screws back into their holes partway. They are less likely to become lost and you
won't have to remember which screw goes where.

Don't use brute force to undo any part - if it's very tight, find out why first. If corrosion
is the cause, try some penetrating oil and gentle heat. Leave the parts to soak with penetrating
oil. Remember too that some threads are left-handed, meaning that you need to turn clockwise
to loosen them. I've noted left-hand threads in the text.

Have regard for your personal safety. Use cleaning fluids only in well-ventilated places
and be aware that many of them are highly flammable. Keep liquids away from your work area
except when needed - it's very easy to spill oil all over your nice cleaned work!
It's good practice to keep "wet" and "dry" work in separate areas, taking only the parts
needed into the "wet" area.

Left/Right/Front/Back

Any references I've made to these assume that you're holding the camera in front of you as
if about to take a photo, with the lens away from you.

Tools (photo 1)

You'll need the following:
Large screwdriver with a flat blade of around 8-10mm.
Set of small screwdrivers with blades from about 1mm to 2.5mm wide.
A sewing needle or drill-bit of about 1-1.2mm diameter.
Pair of needle-nose or circlip pliers - they need to have fairly sharply pointed tips.
Tweezers - preferably jewellers type.
Precision oiler - a hypodermic & syringe (not too sharp!) is a good alternative.
Oiler - a needle or thin wire can also be used.
Thin oil - watch oil is preferable, "3-in-1 oil", "plus-gas" or similar is ok.
Medium grade oil - something regarded as a thin motor-oil would be suitable, silicone
is better still since it doesn't age much.
Grease - ideally silicone-based but thinner motor-grease could be ok.
Cleaning fluid - Lighter-petrol or, preferably, a proper watch/clock cleaning fluid.
A small paintbrush or similar to work cleaning fluid into parts.
Small containers to put fluids in and to store parts in.

[wolves3012]

Part One - Top Cover Removal
This part covers removing the top cover, with some notes on re-assembly afterwards.

Firstly, take the lens off and put it away somewhere, you won't need it for a while!

Slacken the two grub-screws on the rim of the shutter dial (photo 2). Don't remove them, just
undo them enough to allow the dial to lift off. This is easier if the shutter is cocked
and the speed set to about 1/2 sec. Trip the shutter afterwards though. While you're
near there, slacken the grub screw on the synchro ring too, setting the ring to "X" first
(photo 2 shows the screw clearly, below the arrowed one).

From the top-plate, remove the two front screws (photo 3), one rear screw (photo 4), one screw
from the accessory shoe (photo 5) and 1 screw near the wind-lever (photo 6). These are all
different so make sure you know where they belong!

Remove the screw from the middle of the frame counter and remove the counter, together
with the star washer underneath. Underneath you will find a disc with two holes.(photo 7)

Remove the camera back and use a large screwdriver in the bottom of the spool to keep it still.
Now, whilst holding the screwdriver, undo the disc on top with the needle-nose pliers or
circlip pliers - you need 3 hands for this really! (photo 8) NOTE: LEFT-HAND THREAD so turn
CLOCKWISE. You can take a shortcut here by winding the shutter first then not using the large
screwdriver, since the mechanism will hold it. However, this puts quite a strain on various
gears and isn't wise unless the drum comes undone without much force. Remove the drum, the film
spool will fall out now or can be removed easily.

Under the disc are three screws - DO NOT remove them yet! Look next to the wind lever and you
will see a small hole (photo 9) by the three screws. Wind the lever until this hole passes the
screw hole on the top plate and hold it there (photo 9 shows the correct position). The lever
will be roughly at 90 degrees to the body at this point. Insert a needle or drill bit into the
hole as far as possible but using no force (photos 10 & 11). Release the wind-lever, it should
not return far from its current position. If the lever returns normally, you did not wind
far enough before inserting the pin, so go back and try again. You may have to release the
shutter first.

Once the pin is correctly in place, undo the three screws holding the drum and lever in place.
Lift the drum and lever, carefully, over the pin (photo 12).

Now lift the top cover off (photo 13). It should not require any force. Lift the outer end
of the wind-lever spring off the post (photos 14 & 15 and lift the spring and bobbin assembly
off as one. Take great care not to disturb the pin, if it comes out the spring WILL FLY and it
has rather sharp edges! You have been warned! You will also have to wind the spring back onto
its bobbin, which is tedious and fiddly. Set the assembly aside somewhere it won't get
disturbed.

Make sure the shutter is released, then note the position of the ramps on the ratchet
gear underneath, relative to where it meshes (photo 16), then lift the gear off its pivot.

That's the top cover removed. Next we move on to the bits exposed!

[wolves3012]

Photos 02-06

[wolves3012]

photos 7-11

[wolves3012]

Photos 12-16

[wolves3012]

Part 2
This part covers removing and servicing the slow-speed mechanism and assumes the top cover
is off.

The mechanism sits over the speed-change mechanism and under the flash-synch switch (photo 17).
The switch is held in place by two screws on diagonal corners. Don't be fooled by the third
foot and hole - no screw there! Lift off the flash-synch switch carefully. While it's off,
clean the contact ring (photo 18) with a fibreglass or fine brass brush if you have one, otherwise
leave it alone. Make sure you return it to its former position if you rotate the moving part.

The slow-speed escapement is held by two screws (photo 19), one of which must be accessed
through one of the gears. This should line up if you cock the shutter and set 1/8 sec -
something not easily achieved at this stage! You can turn the largest gear slightly counter-
clockwise (as viewed from above) to achieve the same effect, and hold it there while undoing
the screw. Once the screws are out, lift the mechanism off, carefully manoevering it around
the shutter speed-selector parts. It will unwind too as soon as it's released, don't panic!

Dump the whole mechanism into cleaning fluid and let it soak a while. A small brush will help
to clean it if you have one. Let it dry fully before lubricating. Don't run the mechanism
unlubricated, it's quite delicate and you could damage it this way.

Using a very thin oil, lubricate the points shown (photos 20, points marked "1" & 2). Oil
VERY sparingly, using an oiler or a fine needle to get oil onto the spot required. There are
the six pinion pivots (three on top, three underneath) and the escapement pawl pivot (photo 22),
the wind-ratchet (photo 23) and the spring. Lightly, oil the smaller pinion (gear teeth!) on
each shaft too. Oil the teeth ofthe escapement pawl, again sparingly. Excess oil will only run
somewhere it doesn't belong and attract dirt.

Using a medium grade oil, oil the largest, ring-shaped gear where it runs against the
O-shaped plate (photo 20, points marked "2"). Turn the mechanism upside down and note
the pin on the ring-shaped large gear. Turn this gear clockwise about 3 turns to wind
the mechanism, then release it. See that the mechanism runs smoothly and unwinds compeletely.
It should come to rest in about the same place each time and not stick at any point. Try it
several times, partly to check this and partly to run the new oil around. Once you're happy,
set the mechanism aside somewhere clean (like a zip-loc plastic bag) while the other work
is done.

Now is a good time to deal with the RF/VF, whilst access is easier, then refit the slow-speed
escapement and flash-synchroniser, as detailed below, as the last jobs before refitting the
top cover. It is also a good idea to remove the shutter speed selector and grease the part it
sits on - undo the screw holding it, under which is a spring. Whilst at this stage, oil the
shutter drum shaft pivot: refer to photo 25 or 26, oil sparingly between the top plate and the
selector parts, where the shaft runs through the plate. Also, check the operation of the second
curtain release arm (photo 26A). To remove it, unhook the small spring, noting carefully how it
fits. Withdraw the shaft, clean and lubricate with thin oil then refit it and re-attach the
spring.

Re-fitting the slow-speed mechanism is the reverse of removal, with a couple of complications!
Read on.

The ring-gear pin (photo 25) is engaged by the speed-selector at slow speeds. The slower the speed
the further it winds the mechanism. The speed-selector sits a little lower on 1/125 or faster,
so it misses the pin for higher speeds. At 1/60 it doesn't quite get to winding anything, but
for 1/15 or less it does. The little cam sticking out underneath the mechanism (photo 24) is what
blocks the shutter closing-curtain (via a tiny lever) until the delay time is up. Photo 25 shows
the shutter cocked at 1/125 with selector (left arrow) missing the pin (right arrow). Photo 26
shows the same situation for 1/2 sec, where the mechanism has been wound some way (same parts
arrowed).

Before re-fitting the mechanism, apply a TINY dab of silicone grease to the cam periphery. Be
aware that the cam operates a tiny lever and must sit beside it, so lower the mechanism
absolutely straight for the last few millimetres to avoid trapping the lever. The cam point
must not sit on top of the lever, hence the mechanism must be held as described below.

Before re-fitting the slow-speed mechanism, set the shutter speed to 1/1000 - do this by lifting
the speed-change and turning clockwise to the last notch. Don't worry about altering the speed
with the shutter un-cocked, at this point it doesn't matter (we'll check later that it's set
properly). Wind the escapement about one and one-half turns by means of the ring-shaped gear,
until the pin is adjacent to the triangular shaped projection. Holding in this position, re-fit
the mechanism, guiding it over the pin sticking up on the speed-change. Still holding the ring-gear,
refit the screws (very fiddly!), moving the gear slightly, if needed, to access the rear screw
that goes through a gear. Now release the mechanism, it should not unwind far. If it unwinds fully,
remove it and find out why! Once refitted Wind the mechanism a little, several times, it should
always unwind back to the exact same point (check the pin position, it should look like photo 25).

Now set the shutter speed to 1/60 by lifting the speed-selector and turning counter-clockwise.
Count your way through the notches to find 1/60. Cock the shutter by turning the film sprocket
in the direction of film travel (this is rough on the fingers!). Do this slowly and watch
the speed machanism as you wind. If anything fouls up, STOP and ascertain why, DON'T continue
to wind! When the shutter is cocked, the speed-selector should ALMOST contact the slow-speed
ring-gear pin. Fire the shutter and repeat with the speed set to 1/15 or less: this time the
pin should be engaged and the mechanism bewound up. Fire again and see if it sounds right.
Refer to photos 25 and 26 again to see how things should look.

Refit the flash-synchroniser once you're happy with the slow-speed escapement.

[wolves3012]

Photos 17-21

[wolves3012]

Photos 22-26

[wolves3012]

Photo 26A (yes I did forget one when I numbered them!)

[wolves3012]

Part 3
This part covers cleaning and asjusting the rangefinder and viewfinder. It assumes the top
plate has been removed. Access is improved if the flash-synch switch and slow-speed
mechanism have been removed but this is not essential. Photo 27 shows the components.

The VF consists of two main parts: two large prisms glued together and the dioptre correction
lenses. There is little to be done here beyond cleaning the faces of the lenses and the
right-hand side of VF prisms block. Use alcohol on a cotton bud and clean carefully, avoiding
the blackened top and left-hand side of of the VF prism block.

The RF comprises a prism window, the mirror and the operating mechanism. Clean both sides
of the RF prism window (it looks like plain glass but it really is a prism) but take care
NOT to touch the mirror whilst doing so. The mirror is a surface-silvered one, any attempt
at cleaning it will almost certainly damage the silvering. Blow any dust off but otherwise
leave it well alone, don't touch the surface with anything! The pivots for the mechanism
may be oiled sparingly but probably won't need it.

The RF vertical alignment can be adjusted in one of two ways. Refer to photo 28. Normally
the prism (4) is rotated to correct the vertical alignment and the second method should
not be used unless this one fails to move the alignment far enough. If the prism is tight,
soak its periphery with methylated spirits for a while, this will soften the shellac used
to lock it. For the second method, the mirror can be rotated in its mount. There is a
locking screw (1) which must be slackened first. Now use the two screws (2) to rotate the
mirror: slacken one then tighten the other. The screw (3) adjusts the horizontal alignment
and is accessible with the top cover in place. Note that adjusting the prism also has a
small effect on the horizontal alignment, so do the vertical first. Horizontal alignment
is best carried out with the camera fully reassembled. The screw (3) is accessible by
removing the front screw of the top plate just in front of the adjuster. Use it to
adjust the alignment at infinity and rotate the operating cam to adjust at 1m. One
affects the other so it's a case of repeatedly adjusting till you get both right -
it's quite tedious!

[wolves3012]

Part 4
This part concerns the cleaning and lubrication of the shutter release and re-wind release
mechanisms. It assumes the top cover is removed.

The shutter release/rewind mechanism is held in place by one small set-screw (photo 29).
Before removing this screw, place a finger on the shutter release and keep it there!
Removing the screw without this precaution guarantees the parts will be launched into the
air! Turn the rewind collar about halfway so that the screw is more accessible. Remove the
screw then slowly release your finger. Retrieve the parts shown in photo 30 - the shutter
button and spring under it, the rewind collar, the shutter rod with 2 collars and a spring
around them. It's quite likely that this lot will be well gunged up and the lower collar
may not come out. If so, don't worry too much about it but beware of it falling out and
becoming lost. Dump the lot into cleaning fluid for a while. While it's soaking, clean
inside the tube where it all fits, using a cotton bud or similar, soaked in cleaning fluid.
This will also clean the gear intruding into the bottom of the tube. Lubricate the gear along
with the one it meshes with; use silicone grease.

Lubricate the cleaned parts with silicone grease and reassemble. Take care that the shutter
release rod is inserted the right way up - the narrowed part goes at the TOP. Make sure the
rod enters the shutter button properly, a little wiggling as you put the button back in may
be needed. Line up the L-shaped cut-out in the shutter button with the hole in the rewind
collar and replace the screw, hold the button down partway as you replace the screw. Make
sure the button and rewind collar operate properly. It's very easy to mis-align the cut-out
so that the screw locks the shutter button solid - you may need several attempts!

The rewind collar disengages a dog-clutch inside the film sprocket when in the rewind
position. Look at the sprocket and you will see a slot near the top (photo 31) with a screw
showing (don't be tempted to undo the screw, nor the one in the top of the sprocket). If the
sprocket fails to engage properly after rewinding films, this is the likely culprit. A few
drops of cleaning fluid dropped into the slot will probably free things. Put a drop of oil
here regardless. Note that cleaning fluid added will find its way out of the bottom of the
sprocket, so wrap some tissue around it to prevent it running where it's not wanted. The
shaft at the bottom of the sprocket should have a small drop of oil too, turn the rewind
collar fully clockwise first to make access easier.

If the rewind still sticks after this, the top plate must be removed to get at the dog-clutch.
This entails major disassembly and is not covered in this "how to". The clutch and sprocket
internals are shown in photo 32, for those interested.

While you're in that area of the camera, clean and lubricate the gears found by the top of
sprocket - use silicone grease. Be careful not to damage or displace the ratchet or its
spring, located between the spool and sprocket gears. This task is easier if the spool is
removed, as it will be if the top plate has been removed. Alternatively undo the large
screw head found in the base of the spool and remove the shaft, spring and spool. Note the
plastic part in the top of the spool, like a washer with "ears". Replace carefully to ensure
this part sits properly in the top of the spool - it's a royal pain!

[wolves3012]

Part 5
This part covers lubricating cleaning the shutter mechanisms. The top cover must have been removed.

There are two areas that require lubrication. The bearings for the shutter spring rollers and drum
need to be lubricated at several points from the top and bottom. If these appear to be seriously
gummed up then the top plate will need to be removed, which means the whole shutter crate will need
to be disassembled, a major task. Fortunately, this probably not be needed. The restrictor gear is only
accessible from the bottom.

To access these parts, the restrictor gear in particular, the crate must be removed from the body as
follows: Remove the three rear top plate screws (photo 33) and two front screws (photo 34). Remove the
self-timer arm by undoing the retaining screw with sharp-nosed pliers or tweezers (photo 35) in the
two holes (NOTE: LEFT-HAND thread so unscrew clockwise). Recover the plastic sleeve behind the arm
and the washer-like light-seal (photo 36) . Remove the four lens-mount screws (photo 37) and the mount
(photo 38). Note the shims under the mount (photo 39) and the orientation of the mount. The mount
and shims must be replaced EXACTLY as you found them or the lens-register will be incorrect. Remove
the two crate retaining screws (photo 40).

Now the body can be removed. First, pry the lower part forwards (photo 41) and separate the body
completely (photo 42). Note that there is a light-seal of black string glued around the lower part
of the mount area, this tends to stick the two parts together. Break the bond gently and try not to
disturb the string. Glue it back or replace it if it comes adrift.

The restrictor gears sit in the lower, front, right-hand corner and can bee seen in photos 43 and 44
at the lower left. To access them properly, along with the roller pivots, remove the crate front as
follows: First, undo the four baffle screws (photo 43). The baffles will fall into the crate but
they have so little room that replacing the screws later is not difficult. Take care that they do not
move and cut into the shutter cloth parts. Now remove the four crate front screws (photo 44) and the
crate front. Carefully recover the baffles, noting how they fitted.

Clean the restrictor gears (photo 45) as needed and lubricate them with silicone grease. The shutter
will need to be cocked and fired to rotate these gears - depending on the stage of disassembly you
can turn the film sprocket to cock it (turn in film-travel direction!).

Lubricate the spring rollers sparingly, with the camera upside-down (photo 46) using a medium oil.
Make sure the oil goes between the moving parts - the thinner part of the roller is fixed. Cameras
that make a high-pitched zzzzzzzzzp sound when fired usually do so because these points are dry.

One final point to oil here is the shutter drum shaft. This can be accessed just above the shutter
curtain but GREAT CARE is required not to get oil on the curtain or damage it. If in doubt, leave
this part. You will need a very fine-tipped precision lubricator or hypodermic to get oil where
required. Photos 47 and 48 show the drum without the curtains in place. As can be seen, there is one
access blocked by a pin (photo 47), the other is not (photo 48) and can be used. The shutter must
be partially cocked to get this in position, and curtain damage is a risk when passing the oiler
over its edge. Use very little of a thin oil here.

Photo 49 shows the location of the bottom drum shaft pivot, which should also be lightly oiled. It
can be accessed by removing the lower spring cover (photo 50). Note the spacers under the cover,
they are not identical, fit as per the photo. Remove the shutter latch (the silver disc in the photo)
after noting its orientation. Be sure the screw holding it is TIGHT when replacing. Lubricate the
contact surfaces of the latch with silcone grease.

Photo 51 shows the upper roller pivots. These can only be oiled by removing the whole VF/RF
assembly from the top of the camera, a rather fiddly process.

[wolves3012]

Photos 33-37

[wolves3012]

Photos 38-42

[wolves3012]

Photos 43-47

[wolves3012]

Photos 48-51

[rolleistef]

Ahh thank you so much mate! There was nowhere I could find such instructions for my z4 CLA, and I reckon there is so much grease that the 30th don't work correctly unless the camera is correctly warmed before use!

[wolves3012]

That's all folks! No, I didn't cover removing/replacing curtains or re-tensioning them - I didn't need to on this camera and there are web pages covering this aspect already. Re-assembly, as in all the best manuals, is the reverse of disassembly - read the sections again to be aware of any noted precautions though.

Comments or corrections are welcomed, as are easier methods for some of the jobs shown!

Maybe a mod could make this sticky please, if you think it's appropriate?

[rolleistef]

yes, definitely!

[fidget]

It's a great "HOW-TO", wonderfully clear photographs supporting the instructions. Many thanks for taking the time to do this, it will be a great asset to FSU tinkerers.
Dave..

[nzeeman]

thanksa lot for this. make this topic sticky please. :D

[Screwy]

Great thread , plenty of useful information . A must read even if you don't intend stripping your Zorki 4K .



Paul

[Pepe]

if anyone in europe wants to try; I have two unused ones gathering dust, one with a stuck shutter.

I was planning of throwing them on the bay but if anyone here wants one, please do PM me an offer.

[lubitel]

great instructions! I was looking for how-to-CLA.

Thank you.

[oscroft]

That's brilliant, many thanks - I'm going to use that to strip and clean my 4K.

[TimSmith-Laing]

Wolves, that's absolutely brilliant! You must have spent an incredible amount of time on it: thank you! It's because of guys like you that this site is such a storehouse of help for us novices. Great work!

[cameosis]

awesome -- nuff respect!

[rolleistef]

Is there any other screw that need to be unscrewed on a "regular" Z4? I follow all the instructions and it seems some screws are hidden under the vulcanite...

[PetarDima]

THANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sT HANK'sTHANK'sTHANK's
THANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sT HANK'sTHANK'sTHANK's
THANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sT HANK'sTHANK'sTHANK's
THANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sT HANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTH ANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTHANK'sTHANK's

[xayraa33]

a great thread! ..thanks.
this should be helpful to a lot of RFF members.
as another forum member already said, this thread must be made into a sticky.

[wolves3012]

Is there any other screw that need to be unscrewed on a "regular" Z4? I follow all the instructions and it seems some screws are hidden under the vulcanite...
Assuming you've removed the wind knob (I don't have a Z4 so I'm assuming you just undo a grub-screw then unscrew the knob off) I don't think they are any different. There are no hidden screws under the covering. What stage have you got to and what's stuck exactly?

[b1bmsgt]

Assuming you've removed the wind knob (I don't have a Z4 so I'm assuming you just undo a grub-screw then unscrew the knob off) I don't think they are any different. There are no hidden screws under the covering.

This is exactly correct. Other than the difference between the winding lever on the K and the knob on a regular 4, it all comes apart the same way. I used the tutorial myself just yesterday to CLA my 4 and the instructions were right on. The camera even WORKED after I put it back together!! Wow!

Russ

[rbiemer]

Excellent post!
Moderators could we have this made a sticky, PLEASE??
Rob

[rover]

Stuck before I got to it.

But Stuck for easy access in the future.

[lubitel]

Are these instructions also applicable to Zorki 3C? or are these cameras internally very much different?

[wolves3012]

Are these instructions also applicable to Zorki 3C? or are these cameras internally very much different? I don't have a Zorki 3 (yet) so I can't be sure. However, I believe that the 4 is essentially a 3 with a self-timer and flash-synch hence the 3C is essentially the same, so I'd expect them to be very similar. The lever-wind section obviously wouldn't apply to the 3.

[SCOTFORTHLAD]

Congratulations on these instructions,the work involved in doing the CLA is enough to contemplate,but to document it as well was a great achievement.

Brian.

[wolves3012]

Just to say thanks to everyone for the positive reactions. The Zorki 4/4K seems to be a pretty common camera and I could find little of use on the net when it came to the workings. I bought one that needed a CLA, so why not share the experience. Hopefully people are finding it useful!

I'm thinking of a similar article or articles on one or two others...Any requests? Bear in mind I have Zorki 1/5/6 and FED 1/2b/3a. I refuse to play with the Kiev 4 though - it's working fine and I think it's a bit daunting anyway!

[POSTI-Tuomo]

I would like to see a CLA guide for the Zorki 1! That's an undertaking I've been contemplating on for some time now. Being a newcomer to the whole RF business all help would be most welcome.

With the winter coming, I really need to remove the old lubes from the gears and such to prevent jams... I know there's Jay Fedka's guide on his site, but I'd like to see your approach on the matter as well.

[wolves3012]

I would like to see a CLA guide for the Zorki 1! That's an undertaking I've been contemplating on for some time now. Being a newcomer to the whole RF business all help would be most welcome.

With the winter coming, I really need to remove the old lubes from the gears and such to prevent jams... I know there's Jay Fedka's guide on his site, but I'd like to see your approach on the matter as well. Well the "one" is running very nicely at the moment after some minor CLA work initially, plus it has film in it, so don't hold your breath! I'll bear it in mind, though Jay's site is a superb resource. I might use the FED instead though, which does need curtains and is more or less identical. To be honest, it's really quite a simple camera with nothing to trap the unwary really. If you're comfortable with a small screwdriver, go for it.

[POSTI-Tuomo]

Sure, thanks for the encouragement. In fact, I drew up a list of the equipment needed. It's as follows:

- a set of small screwdrivers (1, 2 and 3 mm)
- pliers (round nosed, flat nosed?)
- a small spanner
- tweezers
- picks made out of kebab sticks (to clean the I-22 lens threads)
- a rubber mat
- some small brushes (does the hair have to be natural or will artificial hair do?)
- lighter petrol
- oil (what types are acceptable, bear in mind the camera is going to be used in sub-zero temps)
- some Blu-Tack to hold the parts neatly in place
- a deep and broad tray
- and a digital camera to record the process

Is there anything that I have missed? What do I need to clean the lens? Are chemicals to be used on it, or is that a strict no-no? Don't want to start without any critical instruments!

[Xmas]

Tuomo

Pliers 2 off,
pointy (needle) nosed, ground (filed) off to seat on lens rings
smooth faced to hold things without marr
washing up or thinner material rubber glove, to protect things held with pliers

The close focus stop may need gloves and pliers to undo, the threaded part is very small and easy to snap.

I use PTFE liquid rether then oil, for stability given there may be some wax remaining and it might react with a mineral oil. The PTFE is not a real oil but the old wax and PTFE shold be ok even cold.

It does not get cold here.

Noel

[wolves3012]

Sure, thanks for the encouragement. In fact, I drew up a list of the equipment needed. It's as follows:

- a set of small screwdrivers (1, 2 and 3 mm)
- pliers (round nosed, flat nosed?)
- a small spanner
- tweezers
- picks made out of kebab sticks (to clean the I-22 lens threads)
- a rubber mat
- some small brushes (does the hair have to be natural or will artificial hair do?)
- lighter petrol
- oil (what types are acceptable, bear in mind the camera is going to be used in sub-zero temps)
- some Blu-Tack to hold the parts neatly in place
- a deep and broad tray
- and a digital camera to record the process

Is there anything that I have missed? What do I need to clean the lens? Are chemicals to be used on it, or is that a strict no-no? Don't want to start without any critical instruments!
I think you have covered what you will need. Brushes don't need to be natural hair provided the petrol does not affect them (it shouldn't). Pliers should be sharp-nosed. Rubber or plastic sleeving over the jaws is useful for some jobs.

As for oils, you'll need very thin oil such as watch/clock oil, especially for low temperatures. Better still is a silicone oil if you can source it. For gears I always use a silcone-based grease since it doesn't age or dry up. I can't recommend a source in Finland, but Maplin electronics in UK does a small tube that contains plenty.

I'd leave the optics alone unless they are very bad - re-assembling a lens is tricky and almost impossible to do dust-free. it's also very easy to scratch coatings with a slipped spanner etc. Use alcohol to clean lens elements and a very soft cloth. Be gentle and don't flood assembled lenses.

Maybe a separate thread for this would be a good move, since it's not a Zorki 4/4K we are discussing?

[POSTI-Tuomo]

Thanks for the responses: I think this covers all my questions for now. I'll make a separate topic once I get the CLA job underway and finished. Now, back to the topic; you people can take over from here on :).

[Llandaff]

Brilliant work! Thanks a lot, I'll try to do as you advise, I hope I won't make a ruin from my camera.

[m_chris]

Great.. this is right up my alley since my zorki 4k had stalled some time ago and was meaning to do something about it.i REALLY MISSED MY ZORKI :( Excellent start for me!

Thankyou wolves3012

[mike goldberg]

Hi all,
I was delighted to browse wolves' amazing description months after initial posting... along with instructions and photos. No, I do NOT intend to strip my two Z4's, yet I do appreciate knowing what makes them tick.

See my new Thread question on Z4 shutter care.
Cheers

[varjag]

Wolves, fantastic job: very detailed and excellent illustrations, thank you for the effort!

I would just add that it's useful when one of pliers is with copper/brass lips. Sometimes you need to use them on chrome parts, and those will not leave any scratches.

[persefonia]

great instructions. but i had a little accident. the spring under the wind lever has got completely unwind and fall out. how can i put it back? how can i wind it? hhave you any photos of its original position?

[persefonia]

in pictur 47 and 48 are suposed to be curtains right? how did you remove them? can be the drum removed and how? because i have a little problem with curtain that is suposed to be wraped around the drum

[wolves3012]

great instructions. but i had a little accident. the spring under the wind lever has got completely unwind and fall out. how can i put it back? how can i wind it? hhave you any photos of its original position?
Yes that's happened to me too! There are pictures of the spring in its correct position if you look above. You have to wind it back around the bobbin, carefully. I'd suggest some thin leather gloves or great care, you will cut your fingers very easily. Once wound around the bobbin, insert the pin as described above. The inner end of the spring hooks around a pin on the bobbin, by the way and the spring winds clockwise onto it (from memory!).

[wolves3012]

in pictur 47 and 48 are suposed to be curtains right? how did you remove them? can be the drum removed and how? because i have a little problem with curtain that is suposed to be wraped around the drum
Those pictures show the drum but without the curtains (it was a parts camera) to show the places to lubricate. The curtains came off with some gentle pulling, they aren't held very tightly by the glue and they don't need to be. If you have unglued curtains you need to look very carefully to see where they used to be attached. The correct position of the curtain end on the drum is critical if the shutter is to work properly.

[persefonia]

Those pictures show the drum but without the curtains (it was a parts camera) to show the places to lubricate. The curtains came off with some gentle pulling, they aren't held very tightly by the glue and they don't need to be. If you have unglued curtains you need to look very carefully to see where they used to be attached. The correct position of the curtain end on the drum is critical if the shutter is to work properly.

thanks for the spring instruction, i have succesfully put it back. now i just need to know how to remove the drum. it wasn't curtain that unglued but two tapes(strings) that are supposed to pull curtain forward and backward(attached on the top and the bottom of curtain), so i have to take the whole drumm out so i can put tapes back in their position and glue them

[wolves3012]

thanks for the spring instruction, i have succesfully put it back. now i just need to know how to remove the drum. it wasn't curtain that unglued but two tapes(strings) that are supposed to pull curtain forward and backward(attached on the top and the bottom of curtain), so i have to take the whole drumm out so i can put tapes back in their position and glue them
To do this you need to remove the top plate. After removing the flash sync/slow-speed stuff etc on the top plate, take off the rangefinder. Under it there is a screw to be removed. Next remove another screw near the pillar for the shutter release/rewind collar. I think there are just those two that retain the top plate as long as the body front is removed. Lift it off carefully since several parts will fall out. Note the pin in the shutter mechanism that engages in the shutter drum, it will have to be replaced in the same position. Ditto the restrictor gear on the bottom of the drum.

Good luck!

[PMR]

Zorki 4K "HOW TO - CLA" here. hope you like it!

NOTE 1 - most photos will be in the posts below the sections - there are more than 5
photos in most sections!

NOTE 2: You can use this for a Zorki 4 as well. Apart from the winder, the two models are identical. To remove the winder knob on the Zorki 4, slacken the small grub-screw in it and then unscrew it. Ignore the parts about the rewind lever and its associated gears thereafter.

UPDATE: freeranger has kindly turned this thread into a PDF file, which can be found at:
http://www.fileupyours.com/files/102206/zorki4cla.pdf
Thanks freeranger

I have tried to open the PDF file using the link but I am told that no such file exists!

Have you any more info, please?

Peter:confused:

[wolves3012]

I have tried to open the PDF file using the link but I am told that no such file exists!

Have you any more info, please?

Peter:confused:
The link got changed I'm afraid, although I thought there was an alternative. I didn't create the pdf file, another member did that. There's nothing in the pdf that isn't in the thread though.

[sooner]

Haven't followed this thread, but in my opinion the best way to CLA a Zorki is to buy a Bessa R!

[Kim Coxon]

Yes, but that takes all the fun out of it. :D

Kim

Haven't followed this thread, but in my opinion the best way to CLA a Zorki is to buy a Bessa R!

[wolves3012]

Haven't followed this thread, but in my opinion the best way to CLA a Zorki is to buy a Bessa R!
Buying a Bessa R patently doesn't achieve a CLA on a Zorki 4. Your point is what? The Bessa replaces everyone's Zorki 4, perhaps? How dull that would be!

Thankfully, some of us actually like these cameras, otherwise they'd all be junked and history would be lost.

[Vido]

I started work today on a new PDF of wolves3012's tutorial; should be finished by Monday, Nov. 12, 2007. It includes the addendums of questions/answers after wolves3012 submitted his tutorial, and all the photos set within the text for easy reference of each step.

That is if wolves3012 will let me ~;-) :rolleyes:

[Vido]

Here is the new home for the PDF of wolves3012 CLA Tutorial on the Zorki 4/4K, edited by Vido:

http://thephotocollege.com/wolves3012%20Zorki%204_4K%20Tut.html

[wolves3012]

Here is the new home for the PDF of wolves3012 CLA Tutorial on the Zorki 4/4K, edited by Vido:

http://thephotocollege.com/wolves3012%20Zorki%204_4K%20Tut.html
Oops, I forgot to post that, thanks Vido...and thanks for the effort of producing it!

[Vido]

Oops, me too. I couldn't remember if I was supposed to do it or you, but it's there now for the clicking of others. The post-production taught me a lot. Thanks for letting me help get your work back to help all the FSU users.

[blacknoise]

hey,

great guide, made my Zorki a wayyy better camera :)

Any idea how much of it could be adapted to my Fed 4b, which could also do with a tune up?

Thanks

Rob

[Vido]

I know wolves3012 will be pleased all his work helped you with your Zorki. I didn't think mine needed a CLA but I did one anyway to see if I could follow my own editing of his great tutorial. I even applied some I learned from him while rebuilding my brother's Summitar 50/2 (the one with the friendly aperture blades), two Kiev 6x6's, and an old strat I never play.

Also am applying the techniques on the new (old) Argus A3 with the extinction meter that kinda almost works. Soon.

Vido


Bunches of cameras I'll sell one day, so you gotta be quick! Used them all while shooting thephotocollege.com

[mynameislee2]

I need to lubricate/fix the shutter release on my Zorki 2C. Before I start dismantelling it are the above instructions and parts the same?

Regards,
Lee

[fefe]

Thanks for the detailed guide. My Zorki 4K had lost its shutter trigger and spring due to the loosening of the small screw that holds it in place.
I removed the top cover following your instructions, tightened the screw, cleaned up things around, remounted the whole thing, et voila ! It is now ready to take a few more years of beating.

[BigHairyFinn]

Hiya, might as well piggyback this thread. I have a 4K I managed to drop on a trip, get the RF totally out of whack and then fumble enough to loosen the adjustment screw enough to have it rattling inside.

So thanks to the detailed instructions here (big hand) I finally got to repairing it, alas theres a couple things I am missing now I put it all back together again.

1. Film advance is "loose", as in I need to advance first halfway, and then advance fully to get the shutter triggered. Is it my spring too loose or the cog wheel under the spring in the wrong position?

2. The film rewind release doesn't work. I mean it releases the silver spool with the teeth from the shutter allright, but it won't "release" it to allow rewinding, it only moves half a turn and then stops. And I didn't really touch anything of that assembly, only the rewind mechanism.

3. If you look from the film compartment there are the cogwheels and then a "claw"... on the claw there is a small spring... where/how what is it supposed to be doing? Apparently not allowing a return of the cogwheels but I didn't pay attention to its existence before removing a hefty dollop of grease. The spring's function is a mystery...

*sigh* the Fed 3 I reassembled was such a cakewalk as are plain 4's.:bang:

[wolves3012]

Hiya, might as well piggyback this thread. I have a 4K I managed to drop on a trip, get the RF totally out of whack and then fumble enough to loosen the adjustment screw enough to have it rattling inside.

So thanks to the detailed instructions here (big hand) I finally got to repairing it, alas theres a couple things I am missing now I put it all back together again.

1. Film advance is "loose", as in I need to advance first halfway, and then advance fully to get the shutter triggered. Is it my spring too loose or the cog wheel under the spring in the wrong position?

2. The film rewind release doesn't work. I mean it releases the silver spool with the teeth from the shutter allright, but it won't "release" it to allow rewinding, it only moves half a turn and then stops. And I didn't really touch anything of that assembly, only the rewind mechanism.

3. If you look from the film compartment there are the cogwheels and then a "claw"... on the claw there is a small spring... where/how what is it supposed to be doing? Apparently not allowing a return of the cogwheels but I didn't pay attention to its existence before removing a hefty dollop of grease. The spring's function is a mystery...

*sigh* the Fed 3 I reassembled was such a cakewalk as are plain 4's.:bang:
In answer to your questions:
1) yes you did reposition the ratchet wrongly. Take a close look at the pictures and you'll see the ramps in the correct position. Alternatively, just move it about 1/8 turn and try again. You can't be much further away than that.

2) The rewind release collar should only turn about 1/4 turn anyway. Effectively what it does is to depress the shutter and release the sprocket. If the sprocket IS releasing you could lock the shutter down when rewinding and live with that or take it all apart and solve whatever is the real problem.

3) The "claw" you mention is a ratchet that allows one-way gear movement. The tiny spring keeps the "claw" (it's actually called a pawl) in engagement with the gear teeth.

Hope that helps!

[Pictor_M]

Many, many thanks! Following your instructions my Zorky-4K had now new life.

[paul beard]

I'm stuck on part 2, getting the slow speed gearing back in. I seem to get it to the right place but I don't get the shutter speed selector and the ring gear to cooperate. And of course, you don't get to find this out 'til you have the whole thing back together. Is there a gotcha there that the easily baffled might run into?

EDIT: I have made another couple of runs at this and perhaps my escapement has gotten gummed from repeated handling. I'm de-greasing it again (mmm, the smell of orange oil). Where my reality deviates from the documentation is the number of turns i need to wind the ring gear: I need almost 2 full revs to get the pin in the right place. Is there a more precise way to tell if this is working properly?

[wolves3012]

I'm stuck on part 2, getting the slow speed gearing back in. I seem to get it to the right place but I don't get the shutter speed selector and the ring gear to cooperate. And of course, you don't get to find this out 'til you have the whole thing back together. Is there a gotcha there that the easily baffled might run into?

EDIT: I have made another couple of runs at this and perhaps my escapement has gotten gummed from repeated handling. I'm de-greasing it again (mmm, the smell of orange oil). Where my reality deviates from the documentation is the number of turns i need to wind the ring gear: I need almost 2 full revs to get the pin in the right place. Is there a more precise way to tell if this is working properly?

First of all, the 1-and-a-half turns was what mine needed. I don't think 2 turns would mean something is wrong, it's just a case of individual spring tension etc. You'll probably find that 3 turns (ish) can't be achieved because the spring is fully found before 3 turns and that needs to be avoided.

The only way to check if you have it set up properly is to cock the shutter, which can be awkward to do with half the top missing (and the lever, in particular!). Try winding it by turning the film sprocket in the normal film travel direction. Hurts your fingers but it works. Good luck!

[paul beard]

Ah, OK. And one more detail. Since mine is a 4, not a 4K, I can use the winder knob to cock the shutter, yes?

The speed selector on this 'un was a little balky and still seems a little tricky, as if the tabs and slots don't fit well. I guess it's only a '70 and hasn't been run in yet?

[wolves3012]

Ah, OK. And one more detail. Since mine is a 4, not a 4K, I can use the winder knob to cock the shutter, yes?

The speed selector on this 'un was a little balky and still seems a little tricky, as if the tabs and slots don't fit well. I guess it's only a '70 and hasn't been run in yet?
On a 4 you can just screw the knob back on and use that, yes.

If the tabs/slots of the selector are tight, try a few small dabs of lightwight grease on the slots. Run the selector around the speeds a bit to work it in. Personally, I tend to oil or grease the contact surfaces of any moving parts. Oil for bearings of any sort and grease for gears and anywhere oils wouldn't stay in place.

[paul beard]

First of all, the 1-and-a-half turns was what mine needed. I don't think 2 turns would mean something is wrong, it's just a case of individual spring tension etc. You'll probably find that 3 turns (ish) can't be achieved because the spring is fully found before 3 turns and that needs to be avoided.

The only way to check if you have it set up properly is to cock the shutter, which can be awkward to do with half the top missing (and the lever, in particular!). Try winding it by turning the film sprocket in the normal film travel direction. Hurts your fingers but it works. Good luck!


Alright, I think we have achieved something approaching success. But . . . the second curtain doesn't close. The speeds sound OK (at least as fast as the unwinding of the escapement goes) but the second curtain doesn't close until I cock the shutter. Not what controls that . . . help?

More messing about with this hasn't revealed anything other than that camera repair is not a career option ;-) I have perused Rick Oleson's pages on this and I don't quite see how I can either check that the shutter is under tension and then release it or otherwise get things right. I think I have stuffed something up and despair at having another basketcase on my hands.

[wolves3012]

More messing about with this hasn't revealed anything other than that camera repair is not a career option ;-) I have perused Rick Oleson's pages on this and I don't quite see how I can either check that the shutter is under tension and then release it or otherwise get things right. I think I have stuffed something up and despair at having another basketcase on my hands.
There are two ways the second curtain is held open. First, there's the crescent-shaped arm sitting in an arc around the speed selector. This gets kicked aside by the little tab on the first curtain shaft. Secondly, there's a tiny lever sitting under the slow speed mechanism and this gets pushed into operation when the slow speeds are set: once the delay is up the mechanism pushes this out of the way and the second curtain carries on. The tiny cam under the clockwork is what operates the lever, so have a close look.

When a slow speed is set, the second curtain's "normal" release is kicked aside as usual but the second one detains it until the time's up. Have a re-read of the sticky and see if you can understand by watching it what happens. You could also fire the shutter with the slow-speed mechanism removed and try moving that little lever manually to see the operation: the shutter will stay open until you move it aside. Positioning of the slow-speed mechanism's cam is crucial when you re-fit it.

[paul beard]

There are two ways the second curtain is held open. First, there's the crescent-shaped arm sitting in an arc around the speed selector. This gets kicked aside by the little tab on the first curtain shaft. Secondly, there's a tiny lever sitting under the slow speed mechanism and this gets pushed into operation when the slow speeds are set: once the delay is up the mechanism pushes this out of the way and the second curtain carries on. The tiny cam under the clockwork is what operates the lever, so have a close look.


Is the level a thin black piece that is flat on the top deck? I see it and it moves a little. Not sure how much and in what direction it should go. And I really don't want to disassemble another Zorki 4 to find out ;-)

[David Murphy]

Haven't followed this thread, but in my opinion the best way to CLA a Zorki is to buy a Bessa R!
Yes, well there's no doubt while if one is simply interested in an operational LTM body, the Bessa R meets the mark very well, but I rather enjoyed this thread. I think the point is not so much that it's a 4K that's being CLA'ed, but that this makes a good training vehicle for those interested in camera repair in general. Many of the Russian rangefinders seem to be good for that due to their relative simplicity. A CLA'd 4K would also make a very useful photographic tool for many.

When I get a lot more time than I have now, I plan to try this!!!

[wolves3012]

Is the level a thin black piece that is flat on the top deck? I see it and it moves a little. Not sure how much and in what direction it should go. And I really don't want to disassemble another Zorki 4 to find out ;-)
Yes, that's the second catch. It is spring-loaded towards the speed selector (i.e. to the right as you hold the camera normally). I don't recommend taking it apart since you'd have to remove the RF/VF block first. The little cam under the slow-speed mechanism pushes that flat bar to the left at the end of the time and so releases the second curtain. It doesn't move very far at all, couple of mm. Taking the slow-speed mechanism out means that catch never gets pushed aside, so the second curtain cannot release.

[paul beard]

Yes, that's the second catch. It is spring-loaded towards the speed selector (i.e. to the right as you hold the camera normally). I don't recommend taking it apart since you'd have to remove the RF/VF block first. The little cam under the slow-speed mechanism pushes that flat bar to the left at the end of the time and so releases the second curtain. It doesn't move very far at all, couple of mm. Taking the slow-speed mechanism out means that catch never gets pushed aside, so the second curtain cannot release.

Ah. can it be moved manually (to the left, not front to back? That might account for some of my confusion)? I didn't mess with it yesterday, thought I would give it a rest but fortified with this, I may take it up again.

Thanks.

[paul beard]

Aha. Diddling that lever works great. That means the second curtain isn't kaput. But for some reason, I cannot get that cam under the slow speed assembly to trip it. And it's pretty hard to see under there so I can see what's missing . . . .

OK, what seems at least as important as the position of the ring gear and its cam is the position of the cam on the spring shaft. I've had some almost successes getting this all fitted together but either the second curtain fails to close or the ring gear runs past its place. I'm not sure the gears aren't out of mesh as one of the problems I have experienced is the end of the spring comes out of the shaft (there's not much to hold it in place). So I expect there's one problem that's outside the scope of these instructions ;-)

[wolves3012]

Aha. Diddling that lever works great. That means the second curtain isn't kaput. But for some reason, I cannot get that cam under the slow speed assembly to trip it. And it's pretty hard to see under there so I can see what's missing . . . .

OK, what seems at least as important as the position of the ring gear and its cam is the position of the cam on the spring shaft. I've had some almost successes getting this all fitted together but either the second curtain fails to close or the ring gear runs past its place. I'm not sure the gears aren't out of mesh as one of the problems I have experienced is the end of the spring comes out of the shaft (there's not much to hold it in place). So I expect there's one problem that's outside the scope of these instructions ;-)
Coincidentally I've just had the exact same thing happen on a Zorki 3M, which has an identical mechanism! Here's how you set it up:

First, pop the spring off its post so there's no tension at all. Next, take a look at the cam. Turn the gears until the point of the cam is at 1 O'clock when the mechanism is held as fitted. Cock the shutter and set 1/60th speed. Fit the mechanism, carefully so as not to move the cam.

Now you need to mark the exact position the pin ought to be - don't worry about where it actually is. Mark the ring (not the gear!) where the top arm of the speed selector is (the aluminium part). The pin is supposed to be JUST contacting this to its right (as you look down on it, camera held lens-mount away from you).

Hold the ring gear still, in case the speed selector tries to move it. Trip the shutter. Now turn the ring gear SLOWLY in its normal direction (clockwise) until the second curtain closes. This establishes the exact point the cam operates. Mark the ring gear against the previous mark then take the mechanism out again.

Now, line up the marks again exactly. The next bit I did by eyeballing but a better way would be to mark the cam-gear and frame somehow. You now have the ability to line up the cam to its exact operating position and you also know where the pin OUGHT to be. The gearing between the ring gear and cam gear doesn't have an even relationship (like 2:1 or 3:1 or such). This means that turning the ring gear clockwise will, eventually, bring the cam-gear marks AND the pin into line with the ring mark. Start turning....

When you reach to correct position, wind two turns (of the ring gear) further and pop the spring back on. Now turn two turns backwards again and refit as per the sticky instructions. Hopefully - job done! If not, you may have to adjust the position again :-(

[paul beard]

Coincidentally I've just had the exact same thing happen on a Zorki 3M, which has an identical mechanism! Here's how you set it up:

First, pop the spring off its post so there's no tension at all. Next, take a look at the cam. Turn the gears until the point of the cam is at 1 O'clock when the mechanism is held as fitted. Cock the shutter and set 1/60th speed. Fit the mechanism, carefully so as not to move the cam.

Now you need to mark the exact position the pin ought to be - don't worry about where it actually is. Mark the ring (not the gear!) where the top arm of the speed selector is (the aluminium part). The pin is supposed to be JUST contacting this to its right (as you look down on it, camera held lens-mount away from you).

Hold the ring gear still, in case the speed selector tries to move it. Trip the shutter. Now turn the ring gear SLOWLY in its normal direction (clockwise) until the second curtain closes. This establishes the exact point the cam operates. Mark the ring gear against the previous mark then take the mechanism out again.

Now, line up the marks again exactly. The next bit I did by eyeballing but a better way would be to mark the cam-gear and frame somehow. You now have the ability to line up the cam to its exact operating position and you also know where the pin OUGHT to be. The gearing between the ring gear and cam gear doesn't have an even relationship (like 2:1 or 3:1 or such). This means that turning the ring gear clockwise will, eventually, bring the cam-gear marks AND the pin into line with the ring mark. Start turning....

When you reach to correct position, wind two turns (of the ring gear) further and pop the spring back on. Now turn two turns backwards again and refit as per the sticky instructions. Hopefully - job done! If not, you may have to adjust the position again :-(

This is just what I was looking for. Here's what's wrong now :-(

I follow the steps, get the ring marked, trip the shutter, turn the cam, turn it some more, keep turning it, feel some slight resistance as it turns but the second shutter never closes, trip it by hand with small screwdriver, go through it all again, this time the shutter opens and closes @ 1/60th, cock and trip, first shutter opens, turn the cam, keep on, no resistance this time . . . .

It is turning, as I can see it. Is the second shutter lever adjustable? It seems to work sometimes. Is it on a spring that isn't doing it's job? is the cam going over it and missing (can't quite see that well)?

[wolves3012]

This is just what I was looking for. Here's what's wrong now :-(

I follow the steps, get the ring marked, trip the shutter, turn the cam, turn it some more, keep turning it, feel some slight resistance as it turns but the second shutter never closes, trip it by hand with small screwdriver, go through it all again, this time the shutter opens and closes @ 1/60th, cock and trip, first shutter opens, turn the cam, keep on, no resistance this time . . . .

It is turning, as I can see it. Is the second shutter lever adjustable? It seems to work sometimes. Is it on a spring that isn't doing it's job? is the cam going over it and missing (can't quite see that well)?
Hmm...well it's damned hard to see in there, I agree! Maybe the cam is missing the lever. The lever is on a spring, yes, pushed towards the curtain latch. That's why it always holds the second curtain until the cam pushes it back. That lever isn't adjustable as such. Maybe you have to remove the VF block to see things better. It's a bit extreme but you've come this far...it'd be a shame not to solve it!

Does that lever move freely and is it springing towards the catch (to the right)? I'm guessing it must be, since it's doing the correct job. I can only think that the cam is missing it and passing over the top. Does the cam look flat and square-on to its shaft? Is the whole mechanism sitting properly on its mounting, not mis-aligned and sitting too high?

[paul beard]

Hmm...well it's damned hard to see in there, I agree! Maybe the cam is missing the lever. The lever is on a spring, yes, pushed towards the curtain latch. That's why it always holds the second curtain until the cam pushes it back. That lever isn't adjustable as such. Maybe you have to remove the VF block to see things better. It's a bit extreme but you've come this far...it'd be a shame not to solve it!

Does that lever move freely and is it springing towards the catch (to the right)? I'm guessing it must be, since it's doing the correct job. I can only think that the cam is missing it and passing over the top. Does the cam look flat and square-on to its shaft? Is the whole mechanism sitting properly on its mounting, not mis-aligned and sitting too high?

Perseverance wins again. I think the slow speed assembly was just not sitting in the right place. If I make an effort to make sure it's seated as far forward as it will go, all is good. Shutter curtains open and shut as they should at the fast speeds.

Now to address the end of the cam shaft and how to get the spring back on it. The end of it is making it hard to seat the end of the spring and the spring has uncoiled itself a bit. If it's not one damned thing, it's another . . .

I am trying to hold the end of the spring to the cam shaft with a little JB weld. No idea if it will work or where I will find a suitable spring if I have trashed this one.
Thanks for the detailed replies. Might want to add this procedure to the PDF version.

[paul beard]

OK, so any suggestions on what to replace the spring with? It has uncoiled enough and the end of the cam shaft is chewed up enough to make it not re-usable. My favorite purveyor of the otherwise unobtainable and obscure is closed tomorrow so it will have to wait til Monday to see if some other spring can be worked in there.

Advice to novice camera repairers: that spring doesn't need a lot of handling and keenly resents rough handling.

[wolves3012]

So how about a small saw-cut to restore the shaft? Or did you mean the cam itself is chewed up? As for the spring - hmm - spring wire but I haven't a clue where to suggest! I think if I dig around I have a spare escapement, I know I did have one!

[wolves3012]

I think if I dig around I have a spare escapement, I know I did have one!
Update: Yes, I have a spare one. Needs a good clean-and-lube but it's a worker. PM me if you want it.

[slorenzi]

Thanks a lot Wolves. It will be very useful for me.

[Vince Lupo]

Just got a Zorki 4 off eBay. As expected, the shutter hung up on the slower speeds. I followed your instructions, and managed to take apart the camera, fix it, and get it back together within 2 hours (best of all, no screws left over). Works like a charm now....thanks for this informative thread!

[ludoo]

I have a beat up Zorki 4 which I'd like to CLA, but what is stopping me is the lack of the proper lubricants, and the huge waste of time required to find some suitable ones around here.

If there's a kind soul who can send me a tiny bottle of each of the lubricants needed, I would much prefer giving money (or trading for some Rollei Retro 100 rolls) to a fellow RFFer than buying huge oil bottles which will stay on a shelf forever.

[Azaroth]

Thanks for the guide. It helped a lot. I just got a Zorki 4 with shutter problems on the slower speeds. I took it apart, added a little oil and now I'm trying to put it all back together.

The problem is I got stuck on the slow speed mechanism. I managed to wind and fit the mechanism back on, and the cam seems to operate correctly...but the pawl doesn't catch the 2nd curtain pin. It seems to stay too low, and the pin just rolls over it... if i hold it a little higher it works. Did it have a shim or something that I lost?

P.S: I didn't disassemble the speed selector.

[wolves3012]

Thanks for the guide. It helped a lot. I just got a Zorki 4 with shutter problems on the slower speeds. I took it apart, added a little oil and now I'm trying to put it all back together.

The problem is I got stuck on the slow speed mechanism. I managed to wind and fit the mechanism back on, and the cam seems to operate correctly...but the pawl doesn't catch the 2nd curtain pin. It seems to stay too low, and the pin just rolls over it... if i hold it a little higher it works. Did it have a shim or something that I lost?

P.S: I didn't disassemble the speed selector.
There aren't normally any shims, no. If it work when sitting a little higher, you could try adding a couple of thin washers or try and bend the cam a fraction to make it engage better.

[binlj04]

it was gr8!! keep it up.

[Grytpype]

Many thanks for the excellent thread, wolves3012. Without it I'd probably be still trying to unscrew the disc on top of the wind spindle the wrong way!

I'm stripping down my own 4k for a full CLA, and got as far as trying to remove the shutter crate from the shell, but then hit a wall. The crate was absolutely solid due to the glue you mention on the light seal string. I took off the shield which covers the curtain tensioners in the hope of getting better leverage, and found that KMZ had been so generous with the glue that it had extruded out between the shell and the crate front-plate over a length of more than an inch.

The only solvent I could find that softens the glue is acetone, and it has taken about 90 minutes of acetone application alternating with leverage with a thin-bladed screwdriver to finally free it up, but not before some over-enthusiastic leverage early on had bent both the shell and the crate front-plate! It will need a bit of serious precision work to check the mount alignment after the crate front-plate is straightened. Fortunately I have the tools.

I don't know if this problem is common, but I thought I had better add it to the thread as a warning. Acetone works eventually but take your time - and lever gently!

Steve.

[wolves3012]

Many thanks for the excellent thread, wolves3012. Without it I'd probably be still trying to unscrew the disc on top of the wind spindle the wrong way!

I'm stripping down my own 4k for a full CLA, and got as far as trying to remove the shutter crate from the shell, but then hit a wall. The crate was absolutely solid due to the glue you mention on the light seal string. I took off the shield which covers the curtain tensioners in the hope of getting better leverage, and found that KMZ had been so generous with the glue that it had extruded out between the shell and the crate front-plate over a length of more than an inch.

The only solvent I could find that softens the glue is acetone, and it has taken about 90 minutes of acetone application alternating with leverage with a thin-bladed screwdriver to finally free it up, but not before some over-enthusiastic leverage early on had bent both the shell and the crate front-plate! It will need a bit of serious precision work to check the mount alignment after the crate front-plate is straightened. Fortunately I have the tools.

I don't know if this problem is common, but I thought I had better add it to the thread as a warning. Acetone works eventually but take your time - and lever gently!

Steve.
The one I did came apart easily. I have a spare shell and crate if you want them (the one in some of the pics was the "parts" body). You'd pretty much have to swap everything over though...

[Grytpype]

Thanks for the generous offer. I think I should be OK, but if not I'll certainly let you know. I'm stripping the camera down to a bare shutter-crate, so once I've straightened the front-plate by eye and straight-edge, I'll fit it to the crate and check with a depth micrometer if the distance from the 'mount' to the film-plane is equal at all points and adjust if necessary. At the same time I will check the 'register' with the shims and lens-mount fitted.

I will have at least one question to ask in a day or so, but a bit outside the areas covered in this thread so far (concerning rear baffle plate). I will put it in a new thread rather than make this one too long and unwieldy, unless you think it would be better here.

Steve.

[Green_Blue]

I have an issue with my zorki 4 winder, sometimes when I wind it feels as if it doesn't catch and it takes quite a few winds to get friction again. I have noticed that this occurs predominately after I try to set the film counter. What specific area should I look at if I try to CLA the camera?

[wolves3012]

I have an issue with my zorki 4 winder, sometimes when I wind it feels as if it doesn't catch and it takes quite a few winds to get friction again. I have noticed that this occurs predominately after I try to set the film counter. What specific area should I look at if I try to CLA the camera?

Firstly, check your technique setting the counter. Either hold the winder knob firmly or cock the shutter before setting the counter. Having said that, the counter isn't linked to anything, mechanically, except being friction-coupled to the winder knob.

Generally, you set the counter after loading film and you'll have most likely re-wound a film before that (stating the obvious). Therefore, is the camera going back into "advance" properly? If it's not, I'd look at the bit about flushing out the dog-clutch inside the sprocket and adding some oil (check out the precautions too, it'll run out of the bottom of the sprocket area).

Hope that helps!

[Green_Blue]

Firstly, check your technique setting the counter. Either hold the winder knob firmly or cock the shutter before setting the counter. Having said that, the counter isn't linked to anything, mechanically, except being friction-coupled to the winder knob.

Generally, you set the counter after loading film and you'll have most likely re-wound a film before that (stating the obvious). Therefore, is the camera going back into "advance" properly? If it's not, I'd look at the bit about flushing out the dog-clutch inside the sprocket and adding some oil (check out the precautions too, it'll run out of the bottom of the sprocket area).

Hope that helps!

So after some experimentation I have given up on setting the counter and I just keep on using until I run out. I find that after I rewind the film there are times when the advance will not work properly however it takes a bit of fiddling with the shutter disengaging ring and a bit of turning of the advance before the camera regains friction.

Is the dog clutch the lever at the bottom of the camera?

[wolves3012]

So after some experimentation I have given up on setting the counter and I just keep on using until I run out. I find that after I rewind the film there are times when the advance will not work properly however it takes a bit of fiddling with the shutter disengaging ring and a bit of turning of the advance before the camera regains friction.

Is the dog clutch the lever at the bottom of the camera?
The dog clutch is inside the sprocket assembly, at the top of it. It's not easy to get to without a total stripdown, unfortunately :(

[Green_Blue]

Just my luck, now I have a problem that really can't be ignored, I think something must have bumped the rangefinder in my bag because now it does not focus properly. I was just wondering should I do the infinity adjustment first or the close distance first or does it not really matter what order I do it in?

[wolves3012]

Just my luck, now I have a problem that really can't be ignored, I think something must have bumped the rangefinder in my bag because now it does not focus properly. I was just wondering should I do the infinity adjustment first or the close distance first or does it not really matter what order I do it in?
I'd set the infinity first but don't be too fussy because the close-up affects the infinity and vice-versa. You have to, kind of, refine the accuracy at each end of the scale in stages until both ends are correct.

If you've bumped it out of alignment, it's anyone's guess as to what part moved but it just might be the RF sensor tip.

[jab]

I got hold of a Zorki 4 with a shutter problem: the second curtain doesn't move. To my delight I found this thread with the excellent description how to dismantle the camera. This gave me the confidence to have a go at a repair.

I got as far as part 2, refitting the slow speed mechanism up to: " If anything fouls up, STOP and ascertain why, DON'T continue to wind!". Repeated the re-assembly several times, paying careful attention not to trap the 2nd curtain closing lever under the cam of the slow speed mechanism: same thing every time: can only wind about 20% of the way. (Btw, if I manually operate the 2nd curtain closing lever, the curtain does move OK).

Any suggestions?

[Ron (Netherlands)]

I got hold of a Zorki 4 with a shutter problem: the second curtain doesn't move. To my delight I found this thread with the excellent description how to dismantle the camera. This gave me the confidence to have a go at a repair.

I got as far as part 2, refitting the slow speed mechanism up to: " If anything fouls up, STOP and ascertain why, DON'T continue to wind!". Repeated the re-assembly several times, paying careful attention not to trap the 2nd curtain closing lever under the cam of the slow speed mechanism: same thing every time: can only wind about 20% of the way. (Btw, if I manually operate the 2nd curtain closing lever, the curtain does move OK).

Any suggestions?

It might be easier when the shutter is cocked and the speed is set at 1/125 sec

did you rewind the slowspeed mechanism about 2 1/2 times counter clockwise before reinstalling?

I'm just working on two 4K's and putting back the slow speed mechanism is really the easiest part

[danieldumanescu]

I got hold of a Zorki 4 with a shutter problem: the second curtain doesn't move. To my delight I found this thread with the excellent description how to dismantle the camera. This gave me the confidence to have a go at a repair.

I got as far as part 2, refitting the slow speed mechanism up to: " If anything fouls up, STOP and ascertain why, DON'T continue to wind!". Repeated the re-assembly several times, paying careful attention not to trap the 2nd curtain closing lever under the cam of the slow speed mechanism: same thing every time: can only wind about 20% of the way. (Btw, if I manually operate the 2nd curtain closing lever, the curtain does move OK).

Any suggestions?

Please post a photo of your escapement. It is most suffering from a wrong engagement position beteween the O ring and the cam driving cog wheel. Take a VERY close look at the wonderful photos at the beginning.

[julspeter]

Great guide for CLA, might attempt it one day. However, before completely disassembling the camera, I would like to ask one question. When I look into the viewfinder, the RF patch is way off to the right. It makes focusing annoying, as I have to tilt the camera away from the subject. The alignment however is perfectly fine at both infinity and 1 m. Is this a fixable problem, or just one of the design quirks of the Zorki 4k? Thank you.

[wolves3012]

Great guide for CLA, might attempt it one day. However, before completely disassembling the camera, I would like to ask one question. When I look into the viewfinder, the RF patch is way off to the right. It makes focusing annoying, as I have to tilt the camera away from the subject. The alignment however is perfectly fine at both infinity and 1 m. Is this a fixable problem, or just one of the design quirks of the Zorki 4k? Thank you.It should not be off to the right, it should be pretty much central. However, I really can't see how this can be wrong unless the two prisms of the VF block are misaligned - if they are, you will not be able to do anything about it because they're cemented together.

Sorry for the slow reply, I only just noticed this question.