What film are you guys using?

[Rick Waldroup]

I received my R3A and 40mm lens about a week ago and have been shooting steady ever since. I was just curious as to what people are shooting these days. I have been using Neopan 400 and 1600 for a few months now and love it. I also shoot Tri X, but have been using the Fuji stuff more and more. Back in the '80's when T Max was introduced I was working for a local magazine in Dallas, Texas, and I was able to get all the T Max film I wanted for free. Let me tell you, you become a BIG fan of free film, whether you are crazy about it or not. The only real problem I had with T Max was the contrast- not near as contrasty as Tri X. The one thing I did like about T Max was the tonal range and exposure latitude. Is anyone using Neopan? I develop everything in Rodinal, so my grain is little over the top, but the sharpness is great. Anyway, for the stuff I shoot, I don't mind a little grain.

[g0tr00t]

FP4 roll my own and a friend just gave me FP5 100' roll. So I have also been shooting FP5.

When I am all done with the rolls I have, I will be trying Tri X thanks to Frank S examples.

Edit: D76 1:1.

[RML]

I use Hema iso400 colour neg film.

Over a year ago I bought ten rolls of Efke KB100. Nice film but I still have three rolls left. I just don't shoot B&W at all.

[don sorsa]

Tri-X @ 1250 with diafine soup. Occasionally I shoot Kodak UC, which is relatively cheap at $4.50/roll at local camera shop. I just picked up some Delta 3200 which I'll shoot @1600 just to see what I can see. I sometimes buy whatever short-dated slide is on sale for shooting kids and family events.

[peter_n]

Currently HP5+ and Neopan 400 to see which one I like. I have a few rolls here to send off to a lab (XTOL) so I can make my mind up. :rolleyes:

[GeneW]

Mostly Tri-X and Neopan 400 with a bit of Acros. All in Rodinal 1:50. The 'new' Tri-X grain is very tight and sharp in Rodinal. Neopan 400 is great stuff -- the more I use it the more I like it. Acros 100 is newer to me and I like the tonal characteristics very much. I also like T-Max 100.

Gene

[denishr]

I shoot mostly Efke, since it's Croatian-made and easily available - they even ship it by mail, so I get it delivered to my doorstep :)
I also use TMax 400. I roll all my films myself (bulk load). I use Rodinal for Efke KB100, and Rodinal Special for TMax 400 - but I should really try some XTol, since the grain tends to be over the top with Rodinal sometimes....
I've seen some examples of TMax pushed to 1600 and more, souped in Xtol, and some of the negs had less grain than my KB100! Smooth, good tones... I need to mix that Xtol soon....

Denis

[Peter]

I use Ilford XP2 Super and the Ilford Delta 3200 rated 1600 for low light.

[Nikon Bob]

I use mostly Fuji print films of various speeds, some Kodak C41 B&W and loved the discontinued Konica Impressa 50.

Bob

[jlw]

I like to process my own film, but I also need to scan the negs.

Somewhat to my surprise, that dilemma has steered me in the direction of Kodak Plus-X.

It seems more scanner-friendly than T-Max (less highlight density), it's readily available locally, and I can develop it myself in the kitchen.

The chromogenic films are faster and scan beautifully, but they seem to scratch easily, and I haven't found a good way to process them myself. (Can anyone recommend a good small-volume C-41 kit that's readily available in the USA?)

[doubs43]

My three bulk loaders - soon to have a couple more added - have Ilford Pan F+ 50, Agfa APX-100 Pro and Arista D-Max 400 in them; all B&W films. At the moment my Zorki-4 is loaded with the D-Max.

In the mail is a 100 foot roll of Fuji Super G+ 100 color negative film and the chemicals for processing C-41 film. This will be my first experience with color film processing so I'm crossing my fingers. I can't find a local place that will develope just the film without prints so I'll do my own. I have a few rolls of Agfa 200 color film that's sold under the Walgreen label. Someone here posted some pictures taken with it and I liked what I saw.

I want to eventually give Efke 25 B&W film a try. The old Adox films were exceptional and Efke uses their formulas. I know ASA/ISO 25 is slow but so was Kodachrome 25 in it's day.

In roll film I have Arista ASA/ISO 125 & 400 B&W film with some Arista EDU 200 film on thye way. Also on the way is some Agfa Optima II 200 color negative 120 film.

Walker

[plexi]

Neopan 400,1600 and Tri-X in XTOL and D-76

Acros 100, APX 100 in Rodinal

JandC Pro 100, Neopan 400 and Tri-X for my Rolleiflex

Acros and JandC Pro 100 for my 4x5 Graflex :)

[rbiemer]

Color print: Kodak 400 max or whatever is on sale.
BW: Agfapan APX 100 and 400, Kodak C-41 BW, TriX, PlusX, Twax 400, Ilford XP2,FP4 Delta3200, Konica infrared and their C41 BW
Color slide: rarely(usually a roll through my "new" cameras as a check) either Fuji or Kodak whichever the local stores have.
Rob

[doubs43]

Originally posted by plexi
JandC Pro 100 for my Rolleiflex :)
Plexi, how do you like the J&C Pro 100? I've been wanting to try their 200 speed B&W in my folders but every time I check their website, they show it out of stock. I also want to order some R09 original Rodinal formula developer but will wait until I can get both at once.

Walker

[Roman]

My most-used films in B&W (both 35mm and 120):
Neopan 400, TMax 3200 and Fomapan 100
(but I occasionally shoot Neopan 1600, TriX, APX100 & 400, HP5+ and Efke KB/R 100 - still got some old films left, which I use up by and by, but in the future want to concentrate on the 3 above).

Developers: Rodinal or Barry Thornton's Metol 2-bath (have to mix up a new batch, once my Rodinal and my PyrocatHD are used up) for sharpness & accutance, or when grain does not matter;
Calbe A49 (1+1) where fine grain is required, and for pushing films/fast films.

Color neg.: Agfa Ultra 100, Vista 200 & 400 in 35mm, and Agfa Optima II 400 in 120 MF.

Roman

[Tim]

Mostly either HP5 or Velvia 100F. Occasionally use FP4 or Velvia 50.

And if I just want some quick and dirty test shots to check a camera or lens I'll use a roll of Fuji Superia 200 print film.

tim

[plexi]

Originally posted by doubs43
Plexi, how do you like the J&C Pro 100? I've been wanting to try their 200 speed B&W in my folders but every time I check their website, they show it out of stock. I also want to order some R09 original Rodinal formula developer but will wait until I can get both at once.

Walker

I like it a lot, very sharp with nice tonality, reminds me of APX 100.
The 120 film curls a lot, so that`s kind of annoying, but at $1.39 a roll I can live with that...

I uploaded four images shot with the film here :http://www.pbase.com/plexi/4x5

Two with the Rolleiflex, two with the Graflex.

[P C Headland]

All In 120 size, and it's been a bit of a mixture.

For B+W, I was using FP4+, but have also tried Agfa APX100. Favourite, notwithstanding its curly nature though has to be Efke 25 though. Looks gorgeous, and scans quite nicely.

On the colour front it's usually Velvia 100 or occassionally Reala 100.

The B+W films seem to attract less dust than the colour for some reason.

[David Kieltyka]

HP5+ or Tri-X in Rodinal. Mostly at rated speed but sometimes pushed to EI 800 or 1600. That's it. I use digital gear for all my color pic-taking now but still prefer film for b&w.

-Dave-

[st3ph3nm]

I don't develop myself, as yet.

Kodak 200 (now called "high definition" but used to be called "Gold") - which has much richer colour, I found, than their 400.

Kodak C41 B&W for my black and white.

Cheers,
Steve

[doubs43]

Plexi, thank you for the pictures. The J&C 100 film does have great tonality and I may be placing an order with J&C sooner than I had planned.

Walker

[Kin Lau]

Kodak Gold 100, Fuji Superia 200, 400 & 800 for colour.
Roll my own FP4+ & HP5 for B&W. FP4 goes into Rodinal, HP5 goes into HC110 or Microphen.
Neopan 1600 in Microphen for low-light and a DReb for everything else :).

[JohnM]

Right now, with four cameras -

Fuji Press 800 and Delta 3,200 rated 1,600 - indoor holiday shots over the next two days. XP2 in the new R3.

Believe it or not, but I actually took a roll (cartridge?) of 110 today - I found a fun Canon 110 ED for a dollar this past weekend. It is a scale-focusing rangefinder of sorts and it's got a nifty f2.0 lens - works as if it were brand new.

[schaubild]

I'm tempted by extremes....

B&W: Gigabitfilm (ISO 40, love it!!) or Delta 3200
Color: Velvia 100


At the present time the ratio of usage is: 60% Gigabitfilm, 20% Delta, 20% Velvia.

[plexi]

Could you post some images shot with the Agfa Copex, uh I mean Gigabitfilm? :)

I have yet too see a nice piture from this film, and I`m curiuos how you cope with it.

[Laika]

Fuji Superia 400, Fuji NPZ 800 and Ilford XP-2 are my main films. I also have a few rolls of Fuji Superia 1600, Agfa Ultra 100, Kodak 400TCN and Agfa RSXII (for crossprocessing) in the fridge.

[schaubild]

Three images done on Gigabitfilm are in the xpan gallery.

[plexi]

Thanks. The best results I`ve seen from this film yet.

[schaubild]

The scans don't even come close to what you see on the prints.

[Socke]

Sensia 100, superia 400 and press 800 for color, HP5 for B&W.
I orderd 10 rolls Tri-X for my vacation but they arived late so I just finished the first roll.
I used to use some XP2 and T400CN but T400CN is gone and the labs don't develop without prints anymore, so I switched to traditional B&W and DIY development in summer.

[akalai]

Mainly shoot 35mm Tri-X at ISO250.....use this the most because I love the look and I buy it in 100 foot rolls and bulk load.

Also bulkload Provia 100, shoot it anywhere from ISO80 to ISO400) as I am addicted to it but can't always afford it, well not at the $21.50 a roll it costs here in OZ! (Thats $16.55 US a roll without processing!)

I also love AGFA APX 100 in 120 for my Rolleiflex, again along with Provia 100, got to love those big 6x6 chromes!

[matu]

I´m beggining to develope my own film. By the moment I´ve tried T-Max 400 and Tri-x 400.
They aren´t grainy enough or they aren´t grainy the way I would like. Small grain less tones. Now I´m gonna try some Ilford HP5+ and an Agfa APX400.
I develope with D-76 at full strength.

[Allen Gilman]

Matu,

try pushing your tri-x a couple of stops and develop it in xtol 1+3 or rodinal 1:50. That'll give you grain and sharpness. The newer tri-x has a little tighter grain structure than the older tri-x. HP5 is a good film too. Or even Neopan 1600. Merry X-mas.

[thmk]

Currently Tri-X in D76 (1:1). I really like the look. Next experiments (I am a beginner in developing my films) will be push processing the Tri-X in Adox ATM 49 and tests with Neopan 400 and Neopan 1600 in D76 and Adox ATM 49.

[Roman]

TriX and Neopan 400 are very nice in ATM49 (which is just the new marketing name for Calbe A49), particularly for portraits!
Tell me if you need dev. times!

Roman

[GeneW]

This has been an interesting thread! So much diversity amongst us, and it highlights how many choices still exist in film and developers.

Gene

[wlewisiii]

I've been using alot of different films of late. Right now I have rolls of Illford XP2, Kodaks newer BW400CN, & Fuji Superia X-Tra 400 for color. I haven't used the Kodak before and the Fuji is definately my favorite for color negative right now.

I am hoping for a nice pile of Tri-X in my gifts though :D

William

[thmk]

@Roman

Thx for your offer. Being back from vacation with a few exposed rolls of Neopan 400 and Tri-X I would really appreciate some practical hints for souping them in ATM 49.

Thomas-Michael

[Roman]

What speeds did you use with the films?
I get good results with:

Neopan 400 @ 400 ASA - 14 min.
@ 800 ASA - 18 min.

(new) TriX @ 800 ASA - 16 min.
(have not used it at 400, but guess it would need about 11 min.)

(always with 1+1 dilution, 20°C, 1 min. constant inversion, and 3 inversions at the beginning of every min. afterwards; I use a color-head enlarger with very soft light, and can usually print with about 20 to 40 M dialled in - which would be grade 2.5 to 3, I guess)

Roman

[thmk]

I used them at the nominally speed. Since I do not have the place and time for a complete darkroom I only develop my films and scan the ones I like best.

[Roman]

Then I guess you might develop for 30 to 60 sec. less than I said above - you don't need the extra contrast that I need for the extra-soft light of my enlarger, and less dense negs usually scan better...
So, try 13 min. for the Neopan, and about 10 to 11 for the TriX.

Roman

[furcafe]

Really fast B&W: Neopan 1600 (135), Delta 3200 (120)

Fast B&W: Tri-X, Delta 400, remaining stock of T400CN

Slow B&W: APX 100, Plus-X, variety of "old school" emulsions from Maco, Efke, Foma (most via J&C)

Really slow B&W: Remaining stock of APX25

Fast Color: NPZ, Provia 400F, Portra 400UC

Slow Color: Gold 100 (yes, good ol' G100), Reala, Astia 100, E100G

Really slow Color: Remaining stock of Impresa 50, Velvia 50

All commercially-developed, as we are blessed w/some very good labs here in DC.

[Marc Jutras]

Since I've only been shooting film since last summer (came back to film), I'm still in the quest for one or two favourite films.

Color: I've tried and loved Fuji Press 400. I'm now trying Fuji Superia X-Tra 400 (new generation) since it is apparently as good or better than the Press and it is at least half the price. We'll see. I'd also like to try some high ISO film for night work.

B&W: I've tried Kodak BW400CN and really liked it. I shot a roll of Tri-X 400. It was excellent with a very different look. I recently tried Ilford XP2 Super. It was nice but I think I prefer Kodak's chromogenic. I also think I'll stick to chromogenics for B&W if I don't simply start shooting only in color and convert to B&W in PS.

[Russ]

Fast-Neopan 1600, Delta 3200 & Fuji Press 800
Medium- Neopan 400 & Neopan 400CN
Slow-Delta 100 & Velvia 50

[digitalox]

I'm shooting all B&W these days. I was disappointed some recent slides and decided I was better off sticking with B&W for now. Its so much for satisfying for me to develop it myself and print it.

I haven't really settled into a B&W film yet, but on a recent trip to Toronto I shot a few rolls of Delta 100 and TMX 100. Got home and for the first time I really liked the results with them TMX and Delta. My developing skills have improved I think, and they came out pretty well. I have struggled w/ developing TMX for quite a while and finally am onto something.

I also like the new Tri-X. In rodinal its a bit grainy but the tones are great.

[matu]

Recently I used Ilford HP5+ souped with D-76 full strength.
I didn't liked it, it came too grainy and the higlights tones very dim.
I've like it better Tri-X.

[Jeroen]

Mostly Fuji Superia 400, sometimes Agfa or Kodak 100 or 200 in my Yashica GSN. That baby Is wonderful wide open! Sometimes I cross cheap slide film (100 rated as 64). I hardly use B&W, but when I do, I grab good old Tri-X.
Oh, and NPH in my Yashicamat.

[Russ]

Originally posted by matu
Recently I used Ilford HP5+ souped with D-76 full strength.
I didn't liked it, it came too grainy and the higlights tones very dim.
I've like it better Tri-X.

matu

My lab soups my Neopan 400 in X-Tol, and the negs are always beautiful. Give it a try.

Russ

[wblanchard]

Am I the only one here that uses Kodak Portra BW Film or NC?

[DougK]

Regardless of format, I prefer slide film over print film. Can't beat the color saturation, plus it's a great learning tool since I get exactly what I shot back from the lab for good or ill. Of course, showing off my photos is a lot harder... anyway, to actually answer the question.... In 35mm I shoot Kodak Elite Chrome 100 almost exclusively, although I'll grab 200 if I think I might run into lower-light situations. In medium format, I shoot whatever 120 film I can get the cheapest, mostly B&W print film although if I can get Ektachrome 100 at a good price I'll shoot that before anything else :)

[Russ]

For my serious personal color work, I go with slide film too.

Russ

[Pherdinand]

I mnostly use Fuji Reala 100, NPC 160 and NPH 400 in 135-format, sometimes NPZ800. Occasionally simple consumer colour neg, whatever i find in the shop. I did give a try to very fast BW films, Neopan 1600 and Delta 3200, at half or nominal speed, but since i'm not developing myself (yet), i am usually unhappy with the results. Too much contrast, too big grains, etc. Surprisingly, some frames always come out great.
I like Tri-x and Delta3200 in 120 format very very much.

[kneedropper]

Some 10 years ago I used to love Agfachrome 1000 RS. Grainy as hell, but I liked it. Haven't "been around" for awhile – is there anything like it out there?

[kneedropper]

-

[Rick Waldroup]

That Agfa 1000 looks a lot like the old film made by 3M, the Scotch 1000, or maybe 1600?- that stuff was grainy as hell but really cool to shoot if you picked the right subject. It has not been made in years. Does anyone know of any other type of slide film like these that is still being produced? I know you can push film to the extremes and increase the grain, but there was something unique about these films that made them really neat to use.

[Russ]

Originally posted by kneedropper
Some 10 years ago I used to love Agfachrome 1000 RS. Grainy as hell, but I liked it. Haven't "been around" for awhile – is there anything like it out there?

Yeah, the Agfachrome 1000, was cool stuff. I'm still pissed that they discontinued it. There was an Ektachrome 1600 that was similar. I still have a few rolls in the fridge. Nowadays, your best option is to push a 100 speed film 3 or 4 stops. The attached snap is the old crappy (mid 80's) Ektachrome 200, pushed two stops.

Russ

[peter_n]

My HP5+ and Neopan 400 came back from being souped in XTOL by A&I Labs. The Neopan was perfect and the HP5+ was too grainy for my personal liking.

I like Neopan 400 a lot so I think I'm going to use it for a while. Would also like to try Acros 100.

[Rick Waldroup]

I have become a real convert to Neopan 400 away from Tri X. It has a nice pop to the contrast. Russ I might just get me some 400 speed Ektachrome and push it a couple of stops and see what happens. I haven't shot any real color in years. I've got an old Mamiya C330s that I can try this with. Ought to be fun.

[BJ Bignell]

Delta 100 (bulk rolled) and Provia 100F in 35mm, and HP5+ in 120.

Sometimes, I change it up with PanF (beautiful stuff) and TXP320 (in 120).

[Russ]

Originally posted by peter_n
My HP5+ and Neopan 400 came back from being souped in XTOL by A&I Labs. The Neopan was perfect and the HP5+ was too grainy for my personal liking.

I like Neopan 400 a lot so I think I'm going to use it for a while. Would also like to try Acros 100.

Peter

I think in the last couple of years, I've converted quite a few shooter's over to the Neopan 400. They love it. For the slow stuff, you can't go wrong with ACROS or Delta 100. I love the Delta 100.

Russ

[digitalox]

Between my birthday and Christmas I just got a buttload of Tri-X for presents. Guess I'll be shooting that for a while. Yep, finally got some the hang of developing delta 100 recently. Its pretty great when you develop it well.

[FrankS]

Scott,

You'll find HP5 more forgiving than a Delta film. I use it in the ilford developer, Ilfosol S.

[SolaresLarrave]

I use slide film only. Easier to store, fun to scan. However, there are some rolls of color Fuji (Superia) in the fridge, as well as a couple of Fuji 1600 B&W and two TMZ3200. Otherwise I have over 15 rolls of Scala, some 15 of Ektachrome 200, about the same in Elite Chrome 400, and some 10 of K-chrome 64 and 200.

But the Elite Chrome is only for the SLR, which I use with zooms only.

[peter_n]

Originally posted by Russ
Peter

I think in the last couple of years, I've converted quite a few shooter's over to the Neopan 400. They love it. For the slow stuff, you can't go wrong with ACROS or Delta 100. I love the Delta 100.

Russ The problem is I bought quite a few rolls of HP5+ before I saw how this particular lab worked with it. Now I'm going to have to get rid of them... :(

[Russ]

Originally posted by peter_n
The problem is I bought quite a few rolls of HP5+ before I saw how this particular lab worked with it. Now I'm going to have to get rid of them... :(

Peter

HP-5 is good film. Use it up, or give it away. Whenever I send out lenses, etc, I throw a few rolls of film in with them...

Russ

[peter_n]

I know it's good film, Russ. I've found out that the lab I'm using (A&I labs in LA) allows custom dev. for a very small fee. So I can continue to use my HP5 but with less grain. :)

[SolaresLarrave]

Not necessarily Peter. I believe there are mail order labs that do b&w decently enough. In fact, www.dp5.com can turn your regular, silver-based film into slides... for a price, though.

It's worth it. I'm not exposing my Fuji 1600 yet because I'm waiting for the right event and then I'll send it to them for a slide conversion.

[Jochan]

I wish I was living in a place have a pro lab around me. All the so called pro labs in HK will all be closed as you have the time to drop by. They just open at working hours. The rest of the photo servicing chain shops will be opened after hours and holidays but only provide C-41 in reasonable time. As doing E-6, it takes 5 days, B/W for 7 days!

The most frustrate part happened to me today as I went to collect my slides after waiting for 5 days. I was totally fed up in final because the shop forgot doing push development on my Fuji Provia 400F @ 1600. Now, the whole roll of film is just extremely under.

Sorry I am out of topic for this thread but I was really angry.

[peter_n]

Originally posted by SolaresLarrave
Not necessarily Peter. I believe there are mail order labs that do b&w decently enough. In fact, www.dp5.com can turn your regular, silver-based film into slides... for a price, though. Don't get me wrong, Francisco. A&I (http://www.aandi.com/) have done a great job processing my negs. Its just that the HP5 is grainier than the Neopan. Some people like grain but I don't, so I've been looking for a film/dev combo at 400ASA and it looks like Neopan 400/XTOL is it. :)

[peter_n]

Originally posted by Jochan
I wish I was living in a place have a pro lab around me. All the so called pro labs in HK will all be closed as you have the time to drop by. They just open at working hours. The rest of the photo servicing chain shops will be opened after hours and holidays but only provide C-41 in reasonable time. As doing E-6, it takes 5 days, B/W for 7 days!

The most frustrate part happened to me today as I went to collect my slides after waiting for 5 days. I was totally fed up in final because the shop forgot doing push development on my Fuji Provia 400F @ 1600. Now, the whole roll of film is just extremely under.

Sorry I am out of topic for this thread but I was really angry. That's not good Jochan. :mad: Can you mail to a pro lab from HK? The lab I use is in Los Angeles and its probably as quick sending to HK as here on the east coast of the U.S.

Are there no mail order pro labs in HK? I can hardly believe that... :confused:

[berci]

Mostly TriX, but now there is a roll of TMax in it

[Josef Brugger]

Russ B. is bootlegging Fuji Neopan 400CN to some of us in the Portland area. So far the results are promising. Good tones and sharpness and a full ISO 400.

[RObert Budding]

Ilford HP5 shot at EI 200 developed in D76 diluted 1:3 for 14 minutes at 68 normal development time.

For color, I shoot Fuji NPS, HPH, and NPZ for prints. Slides - I play around with different emulsions.

Robert

[Josef Brugger]

Fuji NCN400 sample, 40/2 M-Rokkor

[back alley]

Originally posted by Josef Brugger
Russ B. is bootlegging Fuji Neopan 400CN to some of us in the Portland area. So far the results are promising. Good tones and sharpness and a full ISO 400.

you mean you actually have yours already?
i think the russ man is a big tease as i have yet to see any in my very cold mail box..

:)joe

[digitalox]

nice shot Josef got a bigger one?

[Russ]

Originally posted by backalley photo
you mean you actually have yours already?
i think the russ man is a big tease as i have yet to see any in my very cold mail box..

:)joe

Joe Rizzy

Josef has his Neopan CN, because he makes the effort to see me on a regular basis. Actually, now that I think of it, that's probably why he tolerates me, to filch all this free film from me. I've also got him converted to the regular Neoapn 400 too. I don't want to dump too much information on him. You know how bewildered and overwhelmed these new photo students can get...

I assure you that your Neopan 400CN, will be leaving the States on Monday. Now if another neighbor (Jorge) were to accept my shooting offer's, he too, would have some Neopan CN in his possession.

Russ

[peter_n]

Is that someone who didn't accept a shooting offer? ;)

[back alley]

Originally posted by digitalox
...got a bigger one?

really! i am speechless...

[back alley]

Originally posted by Russ
Joe Rizzy

Josef has his Neopan CN, because he makes the effort to see me on a regular basis. Actually, now that I think of it, that's probably why he tolerates me, to filch all this free film from me. I've also got him converted to the regular Neoapn 400 too. I don't want to dump too much information on him. You know how bewildered and overwhelmed these new photo students can get...

I assure you that your Neopan 400CN, will be leaving the States on Monday. Now if another neighbor (Jorge) were to accept my shooting offer's, he too, would have some Neopan CN in his possession.

Russ

i think there is just no pleasing you!;)

joe

[summaron]

Kneedropper's second photo beautifully captures the look of the late, great Agfa 1000 film, with its muted, limited palette. (It also looks there a little like Cinecolor, a 1940's color movie film used by Republic Studios in some of their films, with only two color layers: blue and orange). Kodak 1000 neg film in the early 1990's had a nice washed out hard grain look....Currently I use Portra 800 in San Francisco at night with my Rollei 35S shooting at 1/15 to 1/2 sec. For late afternoon and evening I've rediscovered Plus X which I shoot with my contrasty Canonette giii 1.7 lens. I think I've finally gotten the development right, with D23 w. slightly longer than normal time, but gentle agitation every 2 or so minutes. Beautiful soft whites and nice separation of charcoal greys from blacks, appropriate to my subjects, simple and blunt and geometric. Better maybe than APX 100!

[zuikologist]

Fuji Superia (all ISO) and Ilford XP2. I have some Neopan 400CN on order and look forward to using it.

Does anyone have experience with Agfa Ultra 100? I saw this on another forum. It looks interesting for the right subjects.

http://www.onfal.com/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=15&topic_id=2997&mesg_id=3009#3001

[Roman]

I have used Ultra 100 for holiday snaps - really saturated colors, in sunny weather sky looks almost unrealistically blue (like a postcard); kind a like the Velvia of color negative film.

Roman

[peter_n]

Hi summaron and welcome to the forum! :) Would like to see some of your night shots so when you have some time upload a few into the gallery here (no restriction on size) :) .

[Russ]

Originally posted by zuikologist
Fuji Superia (all ISO) and Ilford XP2. I have some Neopan 400CN on order and look forward to using it.

Does anyone have experience with Agfa Ultra 100? I saw this on another forum. It looks interesting for the right subjects.

http://www.onfal.com/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=15&topic_id=2997&mesg_id=3009#3001

http://www.photographyreview.com/Print,Film/Agfa/PRD_144890_3120crx.aspx

Russ

[zuikologist]

Thanks Roman and Russ. I had in mind holiday snaps or a special project (will probably have to wait for summer sun) to use those saturated colours.

[surlysimon]

I got converted to Fujis products on a recent visit to japan, now i am using mostly Neopan 400 and Across 100 (with the occasional roll of illford for old times sake) for B&W and fujichrome for slides.
Have a look at my gallery for examples, but forgive the quality i only have an epson flat bed with slide attachment and am still learning how to get nice sharp scans.

[Russ]

Originally posted by surlysimon
I got converted to Fujis products on a recent visit to japan, now i am using mostly Neopan 400 and Across 100 (with the occasional roll of illford for old times sake) for B&W and fujichrome for slides.
Have a look at my gallery for examples, but forgive the quality i only have an epson flat bed with slide attachment and am still learning how to get nice sharp scans.

Simon

I discovered the Neopans years ago, and love them. However, I still find the Delta's to be excellent films.

Russ

[tmorley]

Kodak UC 400 (print) or Velvia 100 (slide) Occasionally Provia 400