View Full Version : 35mm lenses
It seems that there are 3 different lenses for the bessa R2 in the 35mm flavour.
The f1.2 is really expensive.
What about the classic f2.5 vs. the ultron f1.7. Is the ultron really any better overall, apart from the fact it can work in lower light more easily?
Does it have better quality over the f stops compared to the classic?
Any help here would be great thanks.
wlewisiii
12-08-2004, 19:40
Well, you can always consider the Jupiter-12. Find a good one and it's the equal of any of the rest. I'm not a big wide angle person, but I do dearly love mine.
At 2,8 it is a bit slow, but by the same token it is decended from one of the greatest 35mm designs of all time. 6 of one: half a dozen of the other.
William
Sorry, just need to clarify, is the Ultron a little slow at 2.5 or is the classic??
Thanks.
I have an Ultron and the Pancake II and I use them regularly. In my opinion the Ultron is sharper and more contrasty then the Pancake II, but only slightly. I shoot in available light and the extra stop does help. Do take a look at my photos in the gallery if you want to make comparisons. :)
Peter, nice photos. Yeah, I am looking at an Ultron too, wonder if anyone is looking to dump theirs... :)
Thanks David! Ultron is really a great lens you should get one as Cameraquest is selling it at $399.
Originally posted by Dath
Sorry, just need to clarify, is the Ultron a little slow at 2.5 or is the classic??
Thanks.
The Ultron has a maximum aperture of f/1.7, roughly one full stop faster than the f/2.5 Classic. Likewise, the 35/1.2 Nokton is about one full stop faster than the Ultron.
Choice is good, isn't it?
I've currently got the Ultron, and did have the Classic. I only replaced the classic with the Ultron cause I found I needed that extra stop sometimes (it can be pretty dim in rainforests)
Both lenses are very good, exceptional when you consider the price. Is the Ultron better? As Peter said, maybe a bit sharper and more contrasty. But......it's twice the size and weight. Really, if you don't need the extra stop I'd be tempted to go for the minimal size.
tim
Consider it as part of your kit. Will you have another fast lens? The Ultron may be the best 35 choice because of it's speed if your other lenses will be slower.
Ultron is a great lens - I love mine so you can't have it :D
Whether the extra stop is worht it is something you need to answer. I love shooting in dark bars, and at night so for me it is worth it. If I could afford the 1.2 I would get it in a flash, however it is a bit out of my price range.
When using an SLR I could never get the hang of the 35mm, however now I use it regularly on my M3 (using the outside of the frame as the border) I love the focal length.
Well, I have the 50mm 2.5....so I was thinking of getting the 35 1.7 just to have one lowlight monster. :)
I would highly recommend it. I have a problem of using FP4...I need to move into the FP5 once in a while too.... ;)
Yea, I don't want to take a flash overseas with me...
I've heard a few horror stories about defective 1.7's, can anyone confirm if the pitting etc is still a problem?
Is it possible (as I live in Australia) for me to request that B&H or whoever I get it through physically check it before they send it to me???
I leave in Mid-Feb and need to master this new machine...
Huck Finn
12-09-2004, 08:10
Popular Photography tested both lenses, using the same methodology. They found the Ultron to be the better of the 2 lenses. You can check the July, 2000 issue for the details.
I thought that the Jupiter-12s don't mount properly on the more modern cameras - I have one but am afraid to try to use it with my R3a.
I tried mounting my J-12 on my new Bessa R (very carefully, of course), and checked what happened with the shutter curtains open on B: it does mount close-focussed, but one cannot focus to infinity, because the rear element hits a ledge inside the camera when doing so; also, the metering cell is covered, so no light-meter function...
Good that I did not take a risk when ordering my Bessa R - it was the right decísion to get a 35mm Color-Skopar as well!
Roman
PS: My J-12 is a black one, without the metal collar around the rear element (that some early chrome ones have).
Dath - if you ask Stephen Gandy of cameraquest.com, i'm sure he will check out the lens thouroughly before sending it. He is a great guy to do business with - where are you in Australia? mainline photo (australia) stocks voigtlander gear at quite reasonable prices.
hmmmm...didn't realise you were in Aus. If you're anywhere near Sydney, if you want we could meet up and I'll lend you my R2/21/35/90 combo for a day so you can get the feel of it.
tim
I'm from Cairns. A long way from anywhere as far as rangefinders are concerned...
ah, yeh, that's not quite easy.......
still, if you were down in sydney the offer holds :)
and i'd second mourges comments re mainline. scott is good to deal with and quite reasonably priced. getting stuff sent from the us usually attracts import duty, so unless it's a _lot_ cheaper or is something you just can't get here, i find it's quite often not worth it.
cheers...
tim
st3ph3nm
12-10-2004, 01:35
Ooh, ooh!! Another Melbourne member!
Mourges, whereabouts in Melbourne?
I'm in Hawthorn, and I think Kris is St. Kilda - I feel a January get together coming on!
Cheers,
Steve
some of the guys from APUG are talking about a January 2/3 get together in Melbourne - maybe we could combine the two? I'm thinking of coming down then with a mate...
tim
Import duties?? How? If someone sensd me a present from Germany, it doesn't, how can this be any different?
How will they even know?
well.....if an overseas dealer sends you gear, they fill out a customs decleration. and they fill it out accyrately, 'cause they can't risk being caught cheating. so if you have bought stuff worth (say) us$400, that's what the customs dec will say.
and - you are not allowed to personal import, duty free. more than AUD$400 worth of goods. so - depending on which customs officer inspects your package, you could be up for some cash.
as an example - i bought my Leica iiif from adorama, cause it was waaaay cheaper and better than what I could get here. Value: about USD$600 (or so)
I had to pay 10% on the value over AUD$400, plus AUD$140 handling fee......
still worked out cheaper tho!
tim
Yea, I see, but in the case of my Body, i am going to get it second hand...
Shouldn't be a prob then.
So onbce it is over $400 Aus, you pay 10%? Interesting.
When and how are you meant to pay it?
back alley
12-10-2004, 04:13
check with gandy as i have read that he sometimes 'fudges' on the customs paper work.
(don't tell anyone else, eh?)
joe
Dath, it best to check the website of the Customs or Revenue Service in your country. No doubt there's a page explaining every single detail about how much, when, and how to pay import duties. You''l usually will just receive a notice that your package has arrived in Australia, is currently on hold with the Customs Service, and if you want it you'll have to make a bank payment to such-and-such account. If you don't want to pay or think they're charging you too much, you can complain by filling out a form. Remember that in principle EVERY imported item is taxed to a certain degree; some with 0 percent (yes, zero %), others with more. There are lists specifying how muc import duty goes on which item. But for the finer details check your Customs or Revenue Service's website.
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