Which Contax G body?

[SolaresLarrave]

A good friend of mine is interested in buying a Contax body, and recently he asked me about the G2. I only have the G1 (and do not think about parting with it... yet), so I gave him what I know about the little gizmo. However, his question got me thinking... What body would you choose if both were available to you?

BTW, prices in used Contax glass are kinda plummeting. Any idea? Are there rumors of a G3 somewhere, sometime?

Sorry, let's stick to the topic. I don't think I'd bother with the G2. The G1 suits me well. How about you?

[Doug]

I'm attracted by the smaller size and price of the G1, but also by the operational improvements of the G2. Tough decision!

I'm also curious whether I'd like the motor & AF, in addition to AE. Too automated? Too little manual control possible? I might have quashed active interest in the Contax through acquiring a Fuji GA645Wi, though of course it doesn't offer interchangeable lenses. I'll find out if I can stand the automation, however!

[jdos2]

I've owned the G2 and suffer from Seller's Remorse about getting rid of it.

Get the G2- the nicest bit is that it'll simply have all the options at your disposal if you ever need 'em. There'll never be any doubt that you got all that the system can give.

Also, the baseline on the rangefinder is larger- making the 90mm more accurate wide open.

[SolaresLarrave]

One thing, jdos: what's in the G2 that you may miss in the G1? Other than second-curtain flash, 1/4000 as the highest shutterspeed, and (probably) a faster ftp speed? Sure, a larger baseline (concept I still haven't grasped) and size, but otherwise, it's the same titanium body with really easy film load, a bit of an annoying shutterlag and TTL flash metering.

Am I missing something? Please, advice. Thanks!!

[jdos2]

The G2's longer baseline allows it to focus the 90mm a bit more accurately.

It focuses faster.

The G2 also has an active rangefinding system for use in darker environments.

It has a higher shutter speed.

It has a faster (4fps) recycle speed.

I believe that there is too another pre-focus mode on it that's not available on the G1.

Otherwise, they are identical.

Oh! The G-2 can use immediately the Zoom lens, it's microcode is burned for it (and the 35mm and 21mm?)

[Doug]

Originally posted by SolaresLarrave
...Sure, a larger baseline (concept I still haven't grasped)...

Francisco, it comes from how a rangefinder basically works... But if you already know all this please forgive the following!

Envision a right triangle, one with its 90 degree right angle at the lower left. We'll call this the Origin point. There's a horizontal line running off to the right from the Origin that we'll call the Baseline. There's a vertical line running straight up from the Origin, this represents Distance from the Baseline. These lines are two sides of the triangle, with the third side diagonally connecting their ends. Visualize the Distance side of the triangle as longer than the Baseline side. Because of that, the angle at the right end of the Baseline is greater than 45 degrees.

Let's say we double the Distance side of the triangle and leave the Baseline alone. Now the angle at the right end of the Baseline changes, becomes less acute, a larger angle. For instance, it might have changed from 75 deg to 78 degrees. If we had instead shortened the Distance side of the triangle, that angle might have changed from 75 to 72 degrees.

Let's imagine we're looking down at the top of an RF camera. The Baseline fits between the centers of the viewfinder window and the smaller rangefinder spot window, but back within the body of the camera. The viewfinder eyepiece looks through the Origin and out along the Distance side of our imaginary triangle.

At the Origin point within the viewfinder is a half-silvered mirror or prism that splits our view so that a spot in the center looks partly, ghostly, to the right along the Baseline. At the right end of the Baseline is a small mirror that can pivot, changing the angle at that corner of the triangle. As it pivots, it "looks" at different points along the Distance side of the triangle.

So in the viewfinder we see a doubled image in the center spot; two images of the same object at that one distance from the Origin. We pivot the little mirror on the right until the two overlapping images coincide. Bingo! We know the distance through a method called "triangulation"!

As you may appreciate, as the Distance side of the triangle gets very large in comparison to the Baseline length, the angle at the right corner doesn't change much for a given Distance change. It's just in the nature of trigonometry that this is so. Therefore, with such smaller angular changes, our measurement accuracy drops off as Distance increases.

We can even invent a mechanism to connect the focusing of the lens to the pivoting of the mirror and calibrate it so the lens is in focus at the triangulated distance.

I think that covers the pedantic preliminaries... Now to the Baseline length. I don't know about you, but throughout this I've been imagining a longish camera RF Baseline such as in a pre-war Contax II. Naval gunnery rangefinders have much longer Baselines measured in yards, while you'll have noticed that some small RF cameras have their RF spot window only an inch or so from the viewfinder window.

Having a long Baseline effectively scales up the whole triangle, extending a given level of measurement accuracy out to a longer Distance line. Artillery ballistic computers need range measurements accurate out to several miles. Or you can consider that at the shorter distances, the long-baseline RF's mirror angle changes more for a given distance change, providing more accurate measurement.

What has puzzled me is why camera makers seem so stingy with RF baseline length. A longer baseline doesn't inherently cost more, though of course the designers need to arrange other parts so there's a clear optical path along the baseline. Heck, they could even use a fiber optic bundle to snake around other components... Why couldn't the Bronica have another precious inch of baseline? But then we'd have to learn to keep our dratted fingers away from the RF spot window, like Kiev/Contax users!

[SolaresLarrave]

Doug... if I understood correctly, the baseline extension will explain why the VF in all Leicas and most RF cameras is all the way to the left (if you're the camera user): to make the baseline a bit longer... Did I grasp it more or less correctly?

Thanks a lot for your patient explanation! I did have a bit of a problem following it, because it caught me by surprise and it's almost bedtime, but if I had read this early in the morning it would have been as clear as you intended it to be. And it is clear! Thanks a big lot!!! Suddenly I can understand some things about camera sizes! Thanks again, Doug! :)

[jdos2]

The old Kiev/Contax had a funkier rangefinder yet- solid glass, except where glued in to a gold plated mirror- the images were made to coincide with a lens that swung across the front of the RF prism window... I like that arrangements. Of all the broken/problem Kievs I have, NONE have rangefinder issues.

The Old Contax II/Kiev series also are known for having a full 90mm baseline, making them the most potentially accurate of all the old Rangefinders. It's obvious when focusing, there's a difference between something 100 feet and 200 feet away, not easily seen in my Konica, but obvious in the Kiev and visible in the (1x finder) Nikon.

[Doug]

Zeiss seemed to like that rotating prism RF design... seems to me it's essentially the same as on the old Ikontas too, isn't it?

[jdos2]

Different system. The Kiev/Contax II was really (is, in my cameras, that is) a solid chunk of glass, almost the width of the camera.

My Ikonta had a mirror (on a stalk that if you bumped the camera, would bend requiring readjustment!) with a lens *after* the first prism.

The Lens (and it is a concave lens) that does the rangefinder adjustment is on the end of a piece of metal that moves back and forth- very sensitive to set up, but not subject to knocks, at least not as sensitive as my Leica (was!) or Mamiya 7 (to be fair- it only went out of adjustment ONCE, and I could easily fix it, whereas the Kiev would be a while digging into the camera)

It's possible Zeiss used the rotating prism, but I've not ever personally seen it.

(EDIT)
Apologies. I must have forgotten my medication that day. Of course the Ikontas (and Moskvas, for that matter) have counter-rotating prisms. Just used it this morning. Apologies.

Sometimes, I just open my mouth to change feet.

[Huck Finn]

Doug's explanation of a rangefinder above is really superb (as long as you keep a pencil & paper handy LOL). Somehow this should be extracted & archived. Very valuable information for new rangefinder users who visit this site.

I'll just note one additional piece of information as to why all manufacturers don't make long baselines. A longer baseline means a longer turn of the focus ring to snap into focus. Many people liked the ease with which they could focus their old fixed focal length rangefinders - like my old Canonet. They were known for having a short throw. They didn't need a long baseline because their lenses were typically 35 - 40 mm. In an interview published on Cameraquest, Mr. Kobayashi of Cosina indicated that the Voigtlander Bessa series was created primarily as a vehicle for wide angle lenses because this is where rangefinder cameras excel. (Originally their longest lens was 75mm) For this reason, Cosina never concerned itself with developing a long baseline.

[back alley]

good idea huck, i've attached a 'sticky' to this post.

joe

[NoTx]

Bact to the primary question... I prefer the G1 to the G2. The smaller size, with an upgrade (which comes free with a lens) you can use everything but the zoom. I do not plan on getting the zoom.

The camera focuses perfect, it is easy to cary, and never lets me down.

[Issy]

Is the focus assist light on the G2 infra-red, or visible? If "non visible" another reason to prefer the G2 versus the G1 (the bright assist light on the G1 can be obtrusive)

[Socke]

Originally posted by Issy
Is the focus assist light on the G2 infra-red, or visible? If "non visible" another reason to prefer the G2 versus the G1 (the bright assist light on the G1 can be obtrusive)
It is IR and more than that :-)

It is a second focusing system which is turned on if it's to dark for the normal RF mechanism. It is capable of measuring the distance to a black wall in a totaly dark room.

[kuvvy]

Before buying I had a chance to handle both the G1 and G2. I chose the G1 (now gone, I'm afraid) and never wanted for the G2 afterwards. In the 4 years I used it I had only one picture out of focus and that was my fault. I used it in the low light of a club along with the TLA200 flash and the pix were excellent. I also never had any problems with the 90mm lens.

Paul

[Huck Finn]

Issy, are you considering a purchase of a G2? I know where one can be had cheap with 3 lens kit & flash in the Hartford area. Contact me at billgem@hotmail.com or post here.

[digitalox]

I think the G2 is non-visible, I know the G1 emits little red flash in the dark (almost got caught attempting to take images in the Alamo, but that's for another thread). If the G2's is invisible that can definantly be an advantage. As far as actual focusing differences, I've heard pretty mixed results- some say G2 better, some say G1 better, all in all I think they are both good. Maybe the G2 locks a little quicker but I don't have a G2 so I can't test it.

[jlw]

The G1's focus aid light is tightly focused but visible (and very bright if you're looking right at it.) The G2 uses non-visible IR.

I'd recommend the G2 to anyone if the price difference isn't an issue. Its AF system is more convenient to control thanks to the focus button on the back; this gives you more flexibility in controlling the AF.

[Bob Michaels]

I have had both a G-1 and a G-2 for several years. I can find little real practical difference between them other than the G-2's higher shutter speed.

I find I will pick up whichever camera has the lens I want to use already mounted. Only exception is if I'm shooting in bright sun with Neopan 400. Only then will I chose the G-2.

Bob Michaels

[canonetc]

HI,

either body is great. I had a G-1, now have a G2.

G1 Advantages: Infrared focus beam in low light, lightweight, accepts almost all G lenses.
G1 disadvantages: Not many, unless you are a speedy shooter. Focusing can be erratic sometimes, but not often in good light. Or bad light. Noisy rewind.

G2 Advantages: Fast shutter speeds, center-weighted metering. Accurate metering. Black model looks cool. Multiple shooting modes.
G2 Disadvantages: One out of every ten seem to have freeze-up problems. Don't know why, but it happened to a buddy of mine. Costly to repair. Erratic focusing in low light. Manual focus wheel useless.

If your buddy is a conservative shooter, and wants a good camera with Zeiss lenses for a good price, then I'd recommend the G1. If he likes to shoot fast, and wants a groovy black camera, then go for the G2.

Cheers,

Chris
Canonetc

[Socke]

Sorry, but that's not totaly correct!

The G2 has infrared focus for low to no light, the G1 has a red focus assist lamp.

The focusing wheel is a personal thing, I prefer the G2 focusing wheel over the G1 as it's easyer for me to change shutter speeds with my thumb.

Right thumb for shutterspeed and AF Lock, indexfinger on the shutterrelease and middlefinger on the focus wheel. Left Thumb and indexfinger on the aperturering, I realy like that :-)

HI,

either body is great. I had a G-1, now have a G2.

G1 Advantages: Infrared focus beam in low light, lightweight, accepts almost all G lenses.
G1 disadvantages: Not many, unless you are a speedy shooter. Focusing can be erratic sometimes, but not often in good light. Or bad light. Noisy rewind.

G2 Advantages: Fast shutter speeds, center-weighted metering. Accurate metering. Black model looks cool. Multiple shooting modes.
G2 Disadvantages: One out of every ten seem to have freeze-up problems. Don't know why, but it happened to a buddy of mine. Costly to repair. Erratic focusing in low light. Manual focus wheel useless.

If your buddy is a conservative shooter, and wants a good camera with Zeiss lenses for a good price, then I'd recommend the G1. If he likes to shoot fast, and wants a groovy black camera, then go for the G2.

Cheers,

Chris
Canonetc

[canonetc]

Woops! Guess I couldn't see the infrared beam on the G2! sorry for my misinformation.

Chris
Canonetc

[lZr]

I think (waiting to put my hands on G2 with 35-70) that the focus button is in front for G2 and on top for G1. Remark for jlw saying the button is on the back.
I can't get G2 with 21 mm, because my source will ens with G1 + 35-70. Bad situation.
His G1 is also not upgraded.

[Socke]

The button on the G2s back jlw mentions activates the AF and focuses the lens. It is not the "manual" focus.

[lZr]

Hi Socke. The button you talk about is called "Focus lock" as I understand. I learn slow.
It is not intended to activate the focus, but to lock it only. The shutter release button activates the focus motor. Let me know if I am wrong

[Socke]

IZr, it activates the AF and holds focus as long as you press it, with a bit of training you can press the button and turn the ring to manual focus.

[lZr]

Thanks. I like it. Also in particular I like the grey back of the shutter and the ability to zoom the viewfinder with the zoom lens. I hope soon to upload some scans from G2.
It lacks framelines, but comming from the SLR I think it is more natural.

[Socke]

IZr, I'm interested in your report about the 35-70, too.

At the moment I mostly use the 45 and the 28 next and so added a 35 to my collection to avoid changing lenses so much.
One day I have to go out with the 90 as my only lens to show it the light :-)

[John]

Socke,

I just bought a used 90 after using the 45 for two years. I used it exclusively for a couple of weeks and the shots developed so far are great. I had to move back a couple of times but usually it allowed me to stand back and observe the action without being in it. I am saving for a wideangle next.

[tron]

I'd suggest getting both bodies, that's the way I use my Gs. I have all the lens except the 16 and the zoom (I don't find them much useful). The 21 stays with my G1 all the time, saving me the trouble of switching lens and viewfinder at the same time. I change over the rest with my G2.

Frankly, I like the G1 better because of it's weight and size, but the G2 does have its advantage when it comes to tech spec. If I were to give up one, the G2 will go.

[daniel~]

I'd second tron's suggestion. After owning a G1 for over a year I bought a G2, just to experience the improvement. Now I often carry both for day trips.

I also like G1 better, mainly because of the size. G2 is great with even better specs and the improvement on focusing is small but noticeable. However, at the end of the day, the improvement makes little difference in the result. Not enough to justify the price difference, IMO.

BTW, if you find the manual focusing wheel on G1 too loose, you can have it adjusted. The repairman solved it when I was complaining about this problem... a three minutes work. :cool:

[Fastfashn]

I have had a G1 for ages, recently got a G2, and while I don't like the form factor as well, everything else is better. The focus is faster, it is quieter, I thrust it more...

If they could have stuffed the works of the G2 into the G1 body style... Ah well. :D

[35mmdelux]

g1 is fine, but since he is just now buying better go for G2. why not get a camera more fine-tuned and w/ less milage on it?

g3? They're going or have gone OOB (out of business)!

[Adam Muir]

I have only skim read this thread but I did not see mention of sync speed, 100th on G1 , 200th on G2. I have never tried a G1 but it can't be bad, love my G2's.

[Dougg]

I have only skim read this thread but I did not see mention of sync speed, 100th on G1 , 200th on G2. I have never tried a G1 but it can't be bad, love my G2's.I've had a G1, still have two G2. The G1 is smaller but the G2 does have some technical advantages, though for me the synch speed is irrelevant. The Leica has only 1/50th and for the big Pentax it's 1/30th... for some this is important. :)

[fluffthecat]

The G1 is a cool camera, simple and affordable now. Deserves better praise and I think the design and build quality is superb. Okay, it's an automatic rangefinder but you get used to it.

[akptc]

Sorry if I missed it being mentiond but the G2 has a data back that can print useful info on the film, while I don't think the G1 can do that (date only?)

[Magic]

Sorry if I missed it being mentiond but the G2 has a data back that can print useful info on the film, while I don't think the G1 can do that (date only?)

Hi AKPTC,
By useful info do you mean date year etc?
I have just purchased the G2 with 28mm and 45mm, for 4 days ago and I LOVE it, now Im looking for 35mm and the 90mm lens.

Regards

Em

[akptc]

Hi AKPTC,
By useful info do you mean date year etc?
I have just purchased the G2 with 28mm and 45mm, for 4 days ago and I LOVE it, now Im looking for 35mm and the 90mm lens.

Regards

Em Hi Em. I meant the G2 databack can print estimated aperture and shutter speed, for each frame. Here is more info:

http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00DaoW&tag=

[Magic]

Wow, thats was something I did not know about G2, I always wanted something like this on a 35mm camera :)

Thanx a lot for the info and link Akptc.

[mervynyan]

Bought a new G2 body yesterday, love the form factor. Put up my 45 & 90, yet to take some pictures. However, the lens motor sound drives me crazy. Looking for a 28 in few months time.

[Dougg]

Congrats, Mervyn; you'll surely get fine photos from that gear, assuning you do your part too! :)

[bellyface]

I want a G1 or a G2, but what keeps me from buying is the lack of a lens distance/septh of field scale... and manual focus... what are the workarounds if any?

[pvdhaar]

I want a G1 or a G2, but what keeps me from buying is the lack of a lens distance/septh of field scale... and manual focus... what are the workarounds if any?
There's someone who figured this out already, and it looks very nice when stuck on your lenses:
http://www.photowithmonkey.com/drupal/node/83

[deevee]

but i sold the G2 and only keep the G1 for sentimental reason. If i remember correctly , the G2 has the better VF, better parallax correction, better manual focusing and even AF focusing; the G1 is simpler, smaller, thinner, and lighter in design thus more elegant and more pleasing to look at; it's like comparing the Leica M3 to the latest M6: the M6 may win out on technology and features but the charm belongs to the M3, me think. Saying so I think the black G2 is darn sexy; i wouldn't mind one of those if the price is right :cool:

[haagen_dazs]

this sticky was very helpful for someone who doesnt know about the G cameras
i was wondering, how difficult is it to get a BLACK G2?
i dont ever recall seeing one in any photos

[steamer]

I don't think it's too difficult, just a matter of coughing up the bucks.

[Doug]

True, it's not too unusual to see Black G2 bodies and lenses on eBay... They do command higher prices.

[selma-1]

I own both. I bought a very early G-1 and the factory replaced it in warramty. The G-2 came along later.I find that due to my vision the G-2 works a little better because it takes diopters. The G-1 has an adjustable diopter bit I can see better through the G-2. i wont give up either as I like them both and use them with the 21-28-35-45 and 90 lenses. Flip a coin if you do not need additional diopter adjustment.

[victor anthony]

I had a G1 and it was a pig to focus, perhaps it was a dud one, so I sold it and got a G2. its like a different camera.
Superb focusing
so my answer form my experience is,
A G2

[donvancleave]

Anyone notice that prices on the web for used Contax G series cameras and lenses have shot up in the past two months? Looks to me like people have been snapping everything up. I just found a beautiful 21 at Adorama but had to pay $900 for it. Saw the same lense a few months back at KEH under $700. Now I am seeing the G2 going for north of $600 and the Black one impossible to find under $1000. Is this temporary pricing due to lack of people parting ways with their kits or a sign of things to come?

(the classifieds on this forum has better prices than most sites by the way)

[Doug]

Interesting; I haven't been tracking Contax G pricing recently, as my system is sufficiently complete and my shopping eye has been gazing other directions. :)

But when I was actively building my Contax kit 30 months ago, it did seem pricing was very reasonable. Some retailers still had NIB gear on the shelves that they were trying to move at clearance prices. For instance my 45mm was brand new from Central Camera for $189.

It was that lovely 21mm Biogon that drew me to the Contax G in the first place, as being fast, tops optically, and reasonable cost. I chose a BGN grade one from KEH for $465; it's like new except for a tiny mark on the rear element. As I recall at the time they also had an EX grade for $616.

Maybe it's people returning to film from dSLR who see the Contax G as an attractive compact quality kit with some familiar features.

[Bergman Consulting]

I have both G1 & G2 and have had very little difference in perfomrance, however with the cost of about $175 to have the autofocus assembly fixed, and the good chance you will need to have this done, makes the much lower price for a G1 a better bargain. Despite the inability to see what you are doing in manual focus mode, they are both a great bargain relative to the results they give.

[Larky]

Just to confirm, you can set the G1 to manual everything yes, if you want to? I'd like to be able to pre-focus, and set the exposure myself - then snap as soon as I press the button without the thing faffing and asking questions causing a delay.

Can the G1 do this? For example, I want 250th F8 set to focus about 3 meters, can I set this and get an instant click when I press the button?

A.

[uhligfd]

Larky, On the Contax you see the distance setting in manual mode in the top of body window and in the viewfinder. So, yes. You can run it in full manual and the viewfinder will tell you if you misfocus or misexpose, too.

[Larky]

And if on manual focus, will the shutter trip when I choose, or when the camera decides it's in focus?

[furcafe]

It's been awhile since I used the G2, let alone manual focus, but IIRC it will fire when the camera has racked the lens out to the manually-chosen distance, so there can be a tiny delay. However, if you use the focus button on the back, you can pre-focus the lens & then fire the shutter @ your choosing w/no lag whatsoever (same goes for using autofocus).

And if on manual focus, will the shutter trip when I choose, or when the camera decides it's in focus?

[Larky]

What about the G1?

[Benjamin Marks]

I had both and sold the G1; I have tried but can't bring myself to sell the G2, even though I haven't used it in a year. The main reason to buy this camera, IMHO is the amazing 45/2 lens, which is really one of my all-time favorites. The G2 gives me a lot of the advantages of an AF DSLR (like a Nikon F4) in the form factor of a range-finder. My only peeve: the VF is squinty and small. It's a smart camera, no doubt. Nothing wrong with the G!, BTW . . . but we all have our preferences.

Ben Marks

[Michael Brandt]

My vote is for the G1. I have and used both, but the G1 is my favorite for travel and hanging out. Its smaller, lighter, easier to manual focus with when shooting from the hip. I might recommend the G2 for more serious shoots, editorials and such, but truthfully, I've never had focusing issues or problems with my G1.
thats my 2 cents.

good luck

Michael

[sepiareverb]

G2 is the only choice. The position of the focus wheel on the G1 is the problem for me- I was always hitting it into MF mode. These are really both AF cameras, and the G2 made this much clearer by making MF mode harder to access.

[Michael Brandt]

G2 is the only choice.

Well, the only choice for you sepiareverb, and some others I'm sure, may be the G2, however, if I'm walking around with a 21 or 28 lens during the day at f8, I would probably zone focus the camera manually. Its much quicker...you won't miss that shot of that crazy guy in a bunny suit on a bicycle riding by you fast.
However if you love that shallow depth of field and always shoot at f2, well then you probably won't be zone focusing that often.

I don't understand how one could "mistakingly" bump and move the focus dial on the G1. Its locked. Its also in the same position as the shutter dial on the G2 (which is NOT locked unless on auto). So if your moving the focus dial by mistake on the G1, you'd definitley be moving the shutter dial by mistake on the G2. Either way, your screwed. I've never done that on either.

They are both, in my book, fantastic cameras. However the design on the G1 is smarter, lighter and more efficient than the G2.
It was redundant for Contax to separate the shutter dial and bracketing dial on the G2. Does anyone know why they did this? It just takes up space and creates the need of a third focusing wheel in an odd area.
If you want to switch from manual exposure to auto with, say +1 bracketing on the G2, you have to rotate the shutter dail to Auto, then rotate the bracketing dail to +1. Thats two steps. On the G1, its the same dial...which make more sense because all you have to do is rotate the shutter dial from where ever its set to +1. Thats one step. Much more efficient. Less distracting. More photography, less buttons.

Ultimately the choice between the two systems just depends on your shooting style and what your purpose is for having this camera. If its for travel and hanging out, documenting your life, etc I would go for the G1 because it is seriously lighter and smaller to a degree where it does make a difference (Leica M5 vs. Leica CL). If your going to be shooting events and jobs where you always have a big bag full of filters and all your lenses and weight and convenience doesn't really matter to you, then the G2 is fine.

Cheers
Michael

www.michaelbrandt.net

[sepiareverb]

Yes the focus dial on the G1 and the shutter speed dial on the G2 are in the same place, but they are not the same size. The dial on the G1 is right up flush to the edge of the camera, thus much more subject to getting moved by the strap, or the hand when turning the camera on. Quite possible that there was something wrong with my focus dial lock, but I had this happen a lot. I've never shifted a G2 from AUTO mode unintentionally. Just my 2¢ worth, something I found very annoying with the G1 that never was an issue with the G2.

Walking around zone focussed with the G1 would have been a disaster for me- that focus wheel never stayed where it was supposed to be. :)

[jaap]

G2 G2 G2 G2 G2 G2 G2 G2 G2 G2 G2 G2 G2 G2 G2 G2 G2 G2 G2 G2 G2 G2 G2 no doubt

[Cunha]

What about service for these cameras? I think they look wonderful and I love all of the features I read about regarding these cameras, but I am reluctant to buy one.

What is the service situation like? In 10 years are these cameras going to be breaking, and never to be fixed? Is there a place we can count on to service these beautiful and expensive mostly electronic cameras, or will we just hope they never break?

Really they look so wonderful but I am just afraid to spend 2000 or more dollars on a nice kit just to see the camera fail and never find someone to service it.

So whats it like?

[kdemas]

Tocad in the USA handles the service and will be doing so for quite some time. It might be wise to buy a used beater for parts just in case something "exotic" breaks and they no longer carry the part.

I have 2 G2s, wonderful cameras.

Kent

[Cunha]

Tocad is handleing the service, I heard till 2011 or something?

I guess if we keep parts bodies around we can always keep one running well <shrug>

They are just such neat cameras, though id hate to have to stockpile bodies to keep one running.

Shame Kyocera dropped them.

[Debusti Paolo]

;)hi sell your g1 to your friend and update to g2;) also use a VC heliar 15mm lens that is a great combo with my g2:D

[Cunha]

If anyone is curious I asked tocad about how long services will be available for the G2 this is their response:

"Dear Steven,

Yes we service the Contax G2 camera and expect to have parts available for it until atleast 2020.

Thank you,"

[sooner]

2020? That's just not good enough. I wouldn't waste my time with a camera that won't have parts available through at least 2030. But I have a beautiful G1 after owning and selling a G2, and I'm very happy with it. Same 45/2 lens, after all.

[Cunha]

So sometime after 2020 that company does not expect to have a stock pile of parts.

<shrug> you replace parts in your good body with a trashed body that has the parts you need. Thats how it goes. Does Canon offer full service for the A-1?