I wrote a how-to for B&W film processing

[bmattock]

I hope you find it useful:

http://www.growlery.com/photography/process_b_and_w/

Man, I gotta get a life!

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks

[CleverName]

Great page! Thanks for the info, now I have an excuse to use that really cool stainless steel nikor developing tank I bought.

By the way, my "dark space" looks exactly like your "dark space" ;)

[Peter]

Thanks Bill for your effort! :)

[denishr]

Nice page, Bill!
Should be a great resource for those still thinking about developing their own film. As you've shown, it's not really a big deal.

[taffer]

Bill that's simply great ! I wish some more people will took the step when reading that :)

[mourges]

Great article - The only thing you could add would be another photo of a dark room - maybe a film changing bag, which is what i use. That way as i am spooling my film onto the reels, I can watch TV :-)

(Generally repeats of the simpsons!)

[Bubba]

Very nicely done Bill. I've been tossing about the idea of processing my own film and your tutorial is very practical. You left out the price of a developing tank and reel in the cost breakdown (everyone is a critic aren't they?).

Of course I now have to convince "you-know-who" first. She is very particular about what goes on in the kitchen. Do you have problems with chemical splatters staining the counters? We have a stainless steel sink, so I'm not too worried about that. When storing chemicals, is heat a problem. I would like to store chemicals in the garage, but as you might imagine, here in Florida it gets mighty warm sometimes. Does heat break down the chemicals faster? Also, is there any problems using a changing bag as opposed to the closet? We don't have any rooms dark enough in our house.

Sorry for all questions. I really want to do this, but don't want to do it half-assed.

Bubba

[bmattock]

First of all, I want to thank everyone who posted a response to my one-liner last night. I worked on that web page for nigh onto 14 hours all told, and I was just dead when I got done. I posted the link and fell into bed. Still recovering, I need coffee!

Originally posted by Bubba
Very nicely done Bill. I've been tossing about the idea of processing my own film and your tutorial is very practical. You left out the price of a developing tank and reel in the cost breakdown (everyone is a critic aren't they?).

Thanks, Bubba. I have fixed that part, sorry! Please be a critic, I can use some good critics!


Of course I now have to convince "you-know-who" first. She is very particular about what goes on in the kitchen. Do you have problems with chemical splatters staining the counters? We have a stainless steel sink, so I'm not too worried about that.


Not at all. However, if you fail to clean up any overspill with the developer, it will leave white marks. You can wipe them off, I haven't found anything they permanently stain, but they won't show up until the developer dries, which is usually later. Get my meaning? Do a good clean up before YOU leave the kitchen, and there most likely won't be any complaints from she who must be obeyed.


When storing chemicals, is heat a problem. I would like to store chemicals in the garage, but as you might imagine, here in Florida it gets mighty warm sometimes. Does heat break down the chemicals faster?


I don't know. I believe they say to store the chemicals in a cool dark place, but I'm not sure why. I'll check around and see if I can find an answer for you.


Also, is there any problems using a changing bag as opposed to the closet? We don't have any rooms dark enough in our house.


Nope, not if you're comfortable with it. I don't like those damned things myself.


Sorry for all questions. I really want to do this, but don't want to do it half-assed.


No, we definitely want you fully-assed. GRIN! OK, just kidding. I wrote this webpage because although I know a lot of people here on RFF who know a LOT more than me about developing film in the darkroom, there are also a lot of people who would love to do it, but are not sure how to start. There are a lot of resources out there for the advanced amateur, but not a lot to help someone make that first step - so I did this webpage. I did it for folks like you, and I hope you find it helpful and decide to give it a try!

I will be happy to answer any questions you might have, if I know the answer!

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks

[GeneW]

Bill, as always, your writing is excellent! User friendly, humourous, easy to follow, and infectious. I'm going to post a link to this on another forum I inhabit.

In reading it over I caught a couple of typos and wanted to add a few very minor suggestions.

"thermometor" - typo

"A pair of scissors" - you might want to mention barber shears. The thin blades make it easier to see where you're cutting on the negs

Can opener ("church key") to pry open the canister if the film is rewound inside. BTW I always rewind my film in all the way so I don't get it mixed up with new film.

Aside: I've always trimmed off the leader (in the dark) to create a squared off end to push into my Paterson reels. I didn't know you could leave the leader on. Always something new to learn!

"Data Sheet" - you might want to provide a link to Massive Dev Chart http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html at this point.

"it does not fash me unduly" - typo

And lastly, do mention a large changing bag as an alternative to a closet. I've been using changing bags for 30+ years with no issues. In my house there is NO dark closet I could use.

Thanks again for a great piece!

Gene

[Allen Gilman]

Thanks Bill!

[Nikon Bob]

A large amount of time and effort well spent. Thanks Bill.

Bob

[bmattock]

Originally posted by Gene
Bill, as always, your writing is excellent! User friendly, humourous, easy to follow, and infectious. I'm going to post a link to this on another forum I inhabit.

In reading it over I caught a couple of typos and wanted to add a few very minor suggestions.

"thermometor" - typo

"A pair of scissors" - you might want to mention barber shears. The thin blades make it easier to see where you're cutting on the negs

Can opener ("church key") to pry open the canister if the film is rewound inside. BTW I always rewind my film in all the way so I don't get it mixed up with new film.

Aside: I've always trimmed off the leader (in the dark) to create a squared off end to push into my Paterson reels. I didn't know you could leave the leader on. Always something new to learn!

"Data Sheet" - you might want to provide a link to Massive Dev Chart http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html at this point.

"it does not fash me unduly" - typo

And lastly, do mention a large changing bag as an alternative to a closet. I've been using changing bags for 30+ years with no issues. In my house there is NO dark closet I could use.

Thanks again for a great piece!

Gene

Gene,

I fixed it up, per your excellent suggestions. Thanks! However, 'fashed' is a word, not a typo, and I meant to use it. Scots origin, meaning annoyed or vexed. Shakespeare used it, could I do any less?

Besides, I just like saying it. Fashed. Ohh, that's good.

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks

[Solinar]

Bill, I've already book-marked the page.

I take it that you are using a rapid fixer, if it smells like ammonium sulftate.

I also cut off the film leader and round off the corners before inserting it into the reel. The leader can be used to check the condition of your fixer.

My system is that I have six 1 liter bottles for my working solutions, which are placed in a water bath. I usually try to knock out either 2 rolls of 120 or 3 rolls of 35mm at a time.

Anyway, your page is an excellent resource.

[Film dino]

Hi Bill, great effort; bookmarked it already. I too use a changing bag! (got small hands)
Just one nit-picking point- fixer doesn't actually smell like vingear (acetic acid) unless you are using combined stop-fix?; fixer is slightly sulphury (thiosulphate)

Your hard work is really appreciated.
David

[GeneW]

Originally posted by bmattock
Gene,

I fixed it up, per your excellent suggestions. Thanks! However, 'fashed' is a word, not a typo, and I meant to use it. Scots origin, meaning annoyed or vexed. Shakespeare used it, could I do any less?

Besides, I just like saying it. Fashed. Ohh, that's good.

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks
LOL! :D

Thanks for this exceedingly neat 'new' word. I'll definitely be using it!

Gene

[bmattock]

Originally posted by Solinar
Bill, I've already book-marked the page.

Thank you! That's very gratifying to hear.


I take it that you are using a rapid fixer, if it smells like ammonium sulftate.


Well, I'm using Kodak Rapid Fix, and yes, it smells like vinegar, if that's what you mean. Strong vinegar.


I also cut off the film leader and round off the corners before inserting it into the reel. The leader can be used to check the condition of your fixer.


Good advice, thanks! As to checking the condition of my fixer - I throw it out, so no real need to check it, but great advice.


My system is that I have six 1 liter bottles for my working solutions, which are placed in a water bath. I usually try to knock out either 2 rolls of 120 or 3 rolls of 35mm at a time.


Sounds like a good workflow! I'm just a happy snapper, and I only process film on occasion, so I don't need to go to much in the way of an elaborate setup - a couple of gallon jugs and I'm good.

However, anyone who does more than once-in-awhile B&W processing would be well served to come up with their own system for workflow and chemical conservation, I agree.


Anyway, your page is an excellent resource.

Thank you again! I meant for the page to be a starting point - keeping it as simple as possible - so that people feel it is something they can do.

I've seen a lot of webpages that purport to teach B&W film processing, and they do, but they often get mired down in the small details of what their favorite developer is, how to mix your own chemistry at home, the economies of 55 gallon drums of raw chemicals, pyro, and all sorts of bizarre stuff. That all has a place in photography and I'm sure glad those resources are there, but I'm afraid it scares away new guys - and that's the last thing we need.

Our thing needs new blood, lots of it, and to do that, home B&W film development needs to be fully accessible, simple, and perceived as such. That way, people who are NOT nuts like us are encouraged to try it.

Keep it simple, let people who try it and like it discover the more advanced stuff later, right? Then they can try making their own photographic paper with egg whites and pyro developing and so on. All fun, but I say save it for later, when they're hooked!

Just my two cents!

Best Regards,

Bill mattocks

[bmattock]

Originally posted by Film dino
Hi Bill, great effort; bookmarked it already. I too use a changing bag! (got small hands)
Just one nit-picking point- fixer doesn't actually smell like vingear (acetic acid) unless you are using combined stop-fix?; fixer is slightly sulphury (thiosulphate)

Your hard work is really appreciated.
David

Hmm, maybe my sniffer is broken? I have always thought that fixer smelled like vinegar. Again, I'm using Kodak Rapid Fix. I don't think it is stop bath combined, but I could be wrong. Anyway, I just happened to buy it this time. I used to use just regular Kodak Fixer - and it smells like vinegar to me too.

I only detect a whiff of sulpher (rotten egg smell) when I pour out the fixer after using it on the film. Fresh fixer smells like vinegar to me!

I guess I'm just weird!

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks

[Pherdinand]

Bill, get a life! :)
just joking, thanks for the very nice notes! I am seriously considering to build a darkroom, so it's right in time for me! Don't have to look for it on the Net :D
Last time i googled darkroom setup i ended up with some hits on a Gothic/fetish porn site. Seriously.

[back alley]

as usual very nice work bill!

i loved the photo of the dark space, i laughed out loud.

joe

[SolaresLarrave]

Bill, thanks a big lot! I've done some "research" in the web and never did I find anything as direct and to the point as your page. And, of course, I too laughed at the dark spot photo!

Needless to say, I bookmarked your page and I'll share it with like-minded people I know.

Again, great job in summarizing and thanks a lot for taking the time! :)

[GeneW]

Bill, I posted your article link on another forum I'm on frequently and it has already registered a positive response. Rather than paraphrase it, I thought you might like to read it yourself:

http://www.outdooreyes.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=17411

Thanks again for this very useful article!

Gene

[st3ph3nm]

Bill, thankyou, thankyou, thankyou!

I've been looking for this site since WELL before you wrote it - especially after the discussion on b&w films and scanning that we had a few weeks back.

Not having anyone to show me, this helps me to "visualise" what's going on in the dark - and a lot less daunting.

Now I've been told no more photographic purchases until the new year (apart from film and developing - hey, maybe I can sneak it in that way...) but next year I'm definitely going down this road.

Cheers,
Steve

[David van Sluis]

Thank you! Outstanding job -- I'm sure I'll refer back to it many times in the future.

Dave

[bmattock]

You are all very welcome! I am glad to be of service, and feel free to share the link wherever you like, I just like to feel like I am making a contribution of in some small way. If you can think of a way I can make it better, please feel free to let me know that as well.

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks

[Gordon Coale]

I've been only shooting color and occasionally converting it to black and white in Photoshop. (I *never* want to print in a darkroom again! I shoot film and then scan.) But lately I've been thinking about shooting black and white for available light. Maybe it's the crowd I've been hanging out with here at RFF. After following the TLR thread here I brought my Pearl River TLR down off the shelf, cleaned it up, and shot a test roll of Fuji NPH. (And started watching Minolta Autocord auctions on eBay!) It's great for portraits. But, for some reason, it only seems right to shoot black and white in a TLR. This how to is another sign. Now I have to figure out which black and white. At least I don't need a darkroom. I still have a film changing bag.

[bmattock]

Originally posted by Gordon Coale
I've been only shooting color and occasionally converting it to black and white in Photoshop. (I *never* want to print in a darkroom again! I shoot film and then scan.) But lately I've been thinking about shooting black and white for available light. Maybe it's the crowd I've been hanging out with here at RFF. After following the TLR thread here I brought my Pearl River TLR down off the shelf, cleaned it up, and shot a test roll of Fuji NPH. (And started watching Minolta Autocord auctions on eBay!) It's great for portraits. But, for some reason, it only seems right to shoot black and white in a TLR. This how to is another sign. Now I have to figure out which black and white. At least I don't need a darkroom. I still have a film changing bag.

Hey, Gordon!

Funny you should say that - that same thread got me digging out and cleaning up my Yashica 635. Mine has the inferior Yashikor lens, not the nice Yashinon, but the 35mm kit is trippy - here's a shot I took with 35mm film in it and developed and scanned just today...

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks

[back alley]

what a purrfectly nice kitty shot!

joe

[GeneW]

Here's an image that matches your article, Bill.

Looked in the archives and found this shot my wife Marion took in 1974 of me developing a roll or two of film in the old-style Paterson tank. Thirty years later I still use that tank and all the stuff on the counter, including the wonderful old red windup Kodak timer. I now own three Paterson tanks includng a tall one for developing up to five rolls at a time. I only occasionally get that far behind but it's happened.

Gene
.

[back alley]

ah, the hands of a guitar player...

joe

[GeneW]

LOL, Joe! Playing guitar actually predates my photography. You'd think I'd be able to play better by now ... :)

Gene

[StuartR]

Nice work Bill! That's a great guide. In response to the question earlier about whether heat will speed up chemical degredation the answer is yes. Basically, as things are heated, the molecules move faster and so anything they tend to do just sitting around in there and bumping into each other (like becoming useless for developing) will speed up if it is hotter. The same goes for light -- certain chemicals will degrade faster if they are hit by visible light and other good things coming from the sun.

Bill, as for your article -- I would say two things: 1. There is a third option to a dark space and a changing bag....a portable changing room. http://www.calumetphotographic.com/resources/images/products/RM1000-2.jpg
They fold up into a disk and take up almost no space and they are rigid, so they don't collapse like a bag. They are a good compromise. I don't have a closet or anywhere that can get truly dark, so it was perfect for me.
2. You might add the bathroom as another alternative to the kitchen. I do my processing in my bathtub. I would rather have the chemicals on my feet than on my dishes, so the bathroom works out well in this regard. Then I take a bit of speakerwire and run it from the shower head to the curtain rod and take some clothespins and it gives a perfect place to dry the negatives.
Another secret is to turn the shower on really hot right before you hang up your negatives. The steam will take all the dust out of the air when it dissipates. Then you can be sure that your negatives will not dry with a bunch of dust embedded in them.

[bmattock]

Stuart,

Lovely suggestions, thanks! I'll try to get them incorporated into the webpage in the next day or so, if you don't mind my taking liberties with your ideas!

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks

[StuartR]

Oh, and one last thing that it might be nice to add: don't dump fix down the drain. Developer, stop, hypo clear and photo flo are ok (not great, but ok), but fix is BAD NEWS. Just reuse it for a couple months until it is dead and then bring it to the local photo lab or recycling center for silver reclamation and proper disposal. Big labs often like it (Specialty Photo, the lab here in Santa Barbara reclaims big chunks of silver every year...hundreds of dollars worth) because you are basically giving them a little bit of money...

As for the ideas, feel free to use them! The shower one is what the local Brooks students told me when I was just starting out. It works pretty well...

[bmattock]

Stuart,

I didn't know that about fixer. Is it bad or just wasteful to put it down the drain? I can reuse it as you say, but I have nowhere to take it. Small town, there is not even a chail like Wolfe Camera around here. The closest camera shop is Raleigh, an hour's drive away, and the shops there are pretty much crap - they don't even sell chemistry anymore to the best of my knowledge. I doubt they'd know what to do with it.

Anyway, thanks for the info, I appreciate it!

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks

[StuartR]

Bill, ionic silver is highly toxic and not stuff to be dumped down the drain -- it seeps into the groundwater and can be dangerous to people, animals and particularly to fish and shellfish. The best place to learn about photo chemical safety is here:
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/service/faqs/faq5023

If you have a septic system (which you probably do if you are in rural NC), then you should be particularly careful, as the chemicals need oxygen to breakdown, something that is absent from septic systems.

http://www.kodak.com/US/en/corp/environment/kes/educators/septicDisposal.jhtml

I was looking at the rapid fixer data sheet, and it will keep "indefinitely" in a stoppered bottle. It handles something like 120 tanks worth of film. You can buy a little fixer tester that will tell you when it is spent. When that happens you can get a small cartridge that will remove the silver and then you can dispose of the rest down the drain, with your cereal, or however else you normally get rid of your chemicals.

[bmattock]

Originally posted by StuartR
Bill, ionic silver is highly toxic and not stuff to be dumped down the drain -- it seeps into the groundwater and can be dangerous to people, animals and particularly to fish and shellfish. The best place to learn about photo chemical safety is here:
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/service/faqs/faq5023


Gotcha. Well, thanks for telling me - I've been dumping it down the drain for years, I didn't know!


If you have a septic system (which you probably do if you are in rural NC), then you should be particularly careful, as the chemicals need oxygen to breakdown, something that is absent from septic systems.


No, we're on city water. This is a small town, but it has its own power plant and its own water treatment facility.
http://www.kodak.com/US/en/corp/environment/kes/educators/septicDisposal.jhtml


I was looking at the rapid fixer data sheet, and it will keep "indefinitely" in a stoppered bottle. It handles something like 120 tanks worth of film. You can buy a little fixer tester that will tell you when it is spent. When that happens you can get a small cartridge that will remove the silver and then you can dispose of the rest down the drain, with your cereal, or however else you normally get rid of your chemicals.

OK, I'll find out how to get the cartridge that removes the silver, thank you!

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks