where to find the tool?

[dlofgreen]

Okay, so I have been looking all over to find the little pliers with the points on them to get the asa dial of of my GS. No luck:( . I have been to the auto parts stores and all of the snap ring pliers have points that are too big:mad:. Nothing even close at the local LowDepot. Any ideas? What do you guys use to get this little bugger off?
D.

[JasonC]

Maybe something like these,

http://www.micro-tools.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MT&Product_Code=SP2

http://www.micro-tools.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MT&Product_Code=SP5

Jason.

[dlofgreen]

Thanks JasonC, I was kind of hoping I wouldn't have to spend twice as much for the tool as I did for the camera. Any body else have some creative ideas before I drop $35 on something like this?

[JasonC]

I also remember reading somewhere in the forum that someone files down a pair of needle point pliers for the dial.

Jason.

[dlofgreen]

That's a good one. I have a pair that I can do that to if I have to. Other ideas?

[Brian Sweeney]

I have used a pair of needle nosed pliers for a "fine spanner". For the ASA dial, I have used a pair of stiff metal tweezers.

[pshinkaw]

I note that you are in Colorado. There is a Harbor Freight retail store in Aurora/SE Denver. They have inexpensive tools like small needle-nose pliers and tweezer sets for only a couple of dollars. They are easily ground or filed into other uses.

-Paul

[dlofgreen]

Grayhound man that is perfect! That is exactly what I will do. I may try the stiff tweesers too.

pshinkaw, thanks for the heads up on the cheap tools. Unfortunatly I live just outside of Boulder so it would take me two hours round trip to get over there and back. I may sound a little lazy but after living 12 years in SoCal I can't stand driving any more than I have to.

[dlofgreen]

Thanks for the warning, I have heard they are very fragile.

[surlysimon]

i have heard of people using engineers or machinists dividers
check out tools (http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/improvisedtools.html)

[popitz]

Warning Will Robertson!:) Don't try tightening the screw very much. It's brass and snaps easily.

i learned that the hard way with the wind lever of my GT. :bang: for the ASA dial i just use tweezers.

[dlofgreen]

Okay I have the dial, advance lever, and the rewind post off of the camera (thanks to a few doner tools and a dremel). Now I thought "great only these three little screws left". What a pain. I had to modify a little screwdriver with my dermmel to get it small enough for those little buggers. Now they won't budge! What is the best way to get these things loose?

[dlofgreen]

Just bumping this one up. I really need some ideas.

[KoNickon]

This is a fortuitous string. Last night I was trying to use tweezers to remove the advance lever on my Lynx 14e, but they twisted way too much. Yashica Guy recommends getting snap ring pliers, and I'll check that out, but using a compass as surlysimon's link suggests may well do the trick, and probably for a lot less money, like $10 or less. I'm off to an art supply place tonight to check them out.

[Brian Sweeney]

Try putting a little Isopropyl Alchohol, Ronsonol, or even a little nail polish remover to loosen up the screws. This was not a problem on the 3 Yashica's that I hape opened up. A well fitting flat-head jewelers screwdriver did the trick. My Nikon SP's gave me trouble. I ended up using an exacto knife to carve a new slot in "the last one".

[pshinkaw]

On stubborn screws, I start with a tiny drop of denatured alcohol or Everclear. Give it a chance to soak in, then use the screwdriver to apply a little torque in the "tightening" direction. Then reverse the torque toward "loosening", and the repeat. This can help "break the screw loose". If it doesn't work, elevate to the next stronger solvent, Ronsonol (petroleum naptha) and go through the tighten-loosen sequence again. If it still doesn't work, Use fingernail polich remover "very" sparingly and repeat. As a last resort use Liquid Wrench and let it sit overnight or longer before trying again. I use Liquid Wrench last because it tends to spread lubricant around and doesn't evaporate as fast as the others.

-Paul

[dlofgreen]

Thanks guys I'll give that a try and see if I can't finally get this cracked open.

[john neal]

One other thing that might work is to touch the tip of a small soldering iron onto the screw head for a few seconds, then apply the easing oil - the thermal contraction helps to draw the oil into the threads. Just be careful not to fed in too much heat and discolour anything.

[Brian Sweeney]

And remember that all of the fluids mentioned are Flammable and produce a lot of vapor. Be careful around the soldering iron.

[Rob]

I use snap ring pliers with the tips ground to a point. I have use a drawing compass with filed down nails replacing the pencil lead and pinpoint. Got to be careful not to scratch it.

[KoNickon]

I've tried the drawing compass route, and the stiff tweezers approach too. Both of those will twist too much to be useful, if the item in question is on there tightly.

[dlofgreen]

I got it!!! Man that was the biggest pain in the butt. I was all worried about the levers and dials but had the hardest time with those screws. I did just what john neal suggested above. After all of the solvents didn't work I got out my soldering iron and heated them up. There actually isn't that much heat transfer to the screws. It was just enough to break them loose though. Now the top is off and the new POD goes in tonight. The old one was gone, nada, nothing at all. Not even the pile of goo I hear others talk about.

Thanks for all the help so far. I'll post some shots once its done.

[dlofgreen]

The bottom too? Okay, I'll see how tough that's going to be. Thanks greyhound man.

[dostacos]

how about a pair of divider calipers?
http://tinyurl.com/d9r5j

nice and pointy and adjustable