Lynx 14 vs. Electro 35 ?

[pedro.m.reis]

Hi there! Need an advice here.

What camera is best in picture quality, sharpest lens ?
If you could only buy one, wich did you buy? :)
And ... what does G.A.S. means ???

Thanks.

[BillG]

I have both. Bought a G35 when they were fresh on the market. The advantage of the Lynx is that you can run it as a manual camera. I last tested the Electro G35 without a battery, default shutter speed is 1/500th and got good results, sharp lens. The Lynx is a lot bigger physically. Both lenses are good.

[jan normandale]

both are nice. The Lynx 14 is heavier and has a very large 1.4 lens. Not readily available to day. If you want available light this might be your choice.

There are a lot of discussions and analyses available, from Nakamura, Yashica Guy, and Denton

check

Nakamura http://www.photoethnography.com/equipment.html

Yashica Guy http://www.yashica-guy.com/

Denton http://homepage.mac.com/mattdenton/photo/cameras/rangefinders.html

[bmattock]

I also have both. The Lynx is bigger, better in low light situations with the faster lens. The Electro must have a working battery and light meter - it sets the shutter speed electronically. It has been my observation that the Electro series do not have problems with flare that the Lynx 14 has. If you get the Lynx 14, get a lens hood and use it.

Both good cameras. Electro might have the edge for a better lens - Lynx is faster and has manual shutter speed control.

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks

[pedro.m.reis]

I also have both ... but ...

The Lynx 14, got it from my father, the metter is not working and i get a bright spot in the midlle of every picture. Went to a repair shop but they didnt found the problem.

The electro 35, bought in ebay for $15, but, correct-me if i'm wrong, the shutter release buttun is suposed to stay down when is pressed, mine dont and when i shoot in "B" the shutter leaves take forever to open....Also needs new light seals.

I realy like these cameras so, i want to buy "another" :), so i'm asking the advice :).

P.S.: I realy dont know what GAS means :), i wasnt joking :)

[bmattock]

I also have both ... but ...

The Lynx 14, got it from my father, the metter is not working and i get a bright spot in the midlle of every picture. Went to a repair shop but they didnt found the problem.

The electro 35, bought in ebay for $15, but, correct-me if i'm wrong, the shutter release buttun is suposed to stay down when is pressed, mine dont and when i shoot in "B" the shutter leaves take forever to open....Also needs new light seals.

I realy like these cameras so, i want to buy "another" :), so i'm asking the advice :).

P.S.: I realy dont know what GAS means :), i wasnt joking :)

OK, in no particular order:

1) The bright spot in the middle of the Lynx 14 is lens flare. You get a 58mm lens hood and put it on the end of the lens and the problem will go away. You have have to get a rubber hood and cut it a bit so it does not block the rangefinder window.

2) I don't know what to tell you about the meter on the Lynx 14, but grayhoundman might.

3) The shutter release button is supposed to pop back up when you take a shot. If the shutter takes forever to open, the shutter needs a clean and lube. You can try to do it yourself, or you can have it done professionally - and the light seals as well.

4) GAS means "Gear Acquisition Syndrome" which was coined by Joe or someone here on RFF. It is a joke - a double entendre in English - it means 'to have gas' like what you get when you eat something with a lot of beans in it OR to have a sudden desire to buy lots of cameras.

I hope you find this helpful!

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks

[pedro.m.reis]

Thanks for all the answers.

Do you realy think that the bright spot is flare? On every picture on the exact same spot?
I'm going to buy a lens hood and try anyway :) (where? ebay?)

Tks

[jan normandale]

Bill ... double entendre?? How retro. Haven't heard that one since i was a sprout. My dad, a Brit used to use that phrase. Gave me a flashback. A good one.

Pedro. Find Greyhoundman here at RFF under the members list. PM him on your cameras. He can probably help on one if not both. I and many RFF members have had his fine help. (don't tell him I said that , he might deny it... joke)

Jan

[FrankS]

Lynx = full manual control and functionality without battery

Electro = full programed exposure, no control of aperture/shutter speeds

[pedro.m.reis]

The photo istself is not a great photo but the spot is quite visible.

[Brian Sweeney]

Pedro,

In the one shot shown here, it could easily be flare. Bright water/beach scene with no hood will illuminate the front element and produce these results. But flare should not occur in every type of picture that you take. The Yashica Lynx 14 takes 58mm hoods and filters, your local camera shop probably has them.

If that spot is in every shot you take, it "might" be some haze in the center of the lens. Open the camera, set the shutter to "B", and shine a light through the lens. Look for signs of separation or haze on the lens. Also, examine the working of the shutter closely to make sure that it does not hesitate on closing. Look for it to stick at the end of its cycle. If you see any of these issues, a cleaning of the lens and shutter will help.

[pedro.m.reis]

Sorry about my english ... could you specify better what is Haze and separation? If you got a link with some pictures would be nice.
Thanks.

[bmattock]

Pedro,

In the one shot shown here, it could easily be flare. Bright water/beach scene with no hood will illuminate the front element and produce these results. But flare should not occur in every type of picture that you take. The Yashica Lynx 14 takes 58mm hoods and filters, your local camera shop probably has them.

If that spot is in every shot you take, it "might" be some haze in the center of the lens. Open the camera, set the shutter to "B", and shine a light through the lens. Look for signs of separation or haze on the lens. Also, examine the working of the shutter closely to make sure that it does not hesitate on closing. Look for it to stick at the end of its cycle. If you see any of these issues, a cleaning of the lens and shutter will help.

I have the Lynx 14 - it exhibits the exact same center bright spot. Also, the Lynx is known to be flare-prone. My lens has been out recently - I had to massage the shutter with lighter fluid and so had the unit out. No haze, no separation.

So, I suspect that the problem is flare. Only one way to know for sure - use a lens hood and see if that makes the problem go away. Or, try some indoor shots. One can even make a temporary lens hood with some black paper formed into a cone if need be.

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks

[pedro.m.reis]

hummm, ok. this weekend i'll take some photos indoor and with a paper lens hood :)

Tks

[bmattock]

hummm, ok. this weekend i'll take some photos indoor and with a paper lens hood :)

Tks

I took some shots this weekend with my Lynx 14. Sadly, all suffered from lens flare except the one I took in our living room (indoors). Looks just like yours, too.

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks

[ChrisN]

Here's a few more samples from the Lynx 14, at small aperture (about f8 to f11). I've only shot one roll but no sign of flare with this one so far. :)

[bmattock]

My trip to DC with a (different) Yashica Lynx 14. OK, I have two of them...

It was mostly overcast, so no flare to speak of. Also, I used some el cheapo B&W film on this trip and overprocessed on top of it, I think.

http://www.cameramentor.com/washington/

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks

[RichardS]

I have both and get excellent pictures with both. I prefer the Lynx because you have complete control over the aperture and shutter settings.

Dick

[Brian Sweeney]

Lynx 14 at F5.6, outdoors.

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=177

Haze inside of a lens looks the same as the inside of a car window that has not been cleaned in a while. When you shine a light into a lens, the "haze" illuminates.

I really think what you have is flare, and the way to solve it is to get the lens hood. I tend to use the top cover of ever-ready cases as a lens hood, to shade the lens. Saw that in a 1940's book "35mm Technique" and it stuck with me.

[Kat]

Another quick question: for manual override like with the Yashica 14, are there any over/under lights or shutter lock?

[bmattock]

I really think what you have is flare, and the way to solve it is to get the lens hood. I tend to use the top cover of ever-ready cases as a lens hood, to shade the lens. Saw that in a 1940's book "35mm Technique" and it stuck with me.

Clever idea!

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks

[bmattock]

Another quick question: for manual override like with the Yashica 14, are there any over/under lights or shutter lock?

Yashica Lynx 14 - No manual over-ride - it is manual all the time.
Yashica Electro - No manual over-ride - it is automatic shutter speed all the time.

Lynx has no over/under lights, and will always fire if cocked. Not automatic in any way.

The Electro (CC, GT, and GSN in my experience) have a mechanical shutter lock. It is located on the shutter and you rotate it like a collar to lock or unlock the shutter.

There is also the over/under shutter lock, which is electronic and only on the Electro series.

There is a wealth of information on all kids of Yashica rangefinders at

www.yashica-guy.com

Worth a look, really.

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks

[pedro.m.reis]

About the flare, does using a circular pol. filter helps in reducing the flare?

[pedro.m.reis]

More examples from my Lynx 14.
Here the bright spot is not so visible.

[Brian Sweeney]

Pedro,
Those are pretty good shots! No haze on that lens, go with the shade.

[pedro.m.reis]

Hi.
Just for checking. These photos are frm my Electro 35.
I think these problem is the bad light seals. But what you think?

[Brian Sweeney]

Now THAT looks like a problem. Probably bad light seals, given the vertical lines.