Cross Processing Recommendations...

[NickTrop]

Looking to experiment with some slide film cross processed in C41 chemicals (1-hr lab most likely...) Any recommendations for which slide film or general advice? Samples would be wonderful... Thanks in advance!

[Juan Valdenebro]

All ISO100 Kodak slide films work well... Normal C-41 development. Test one roll with every scene at -1, N and N+1 to see what you prefer...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/40894234@N07/3766087783/sizes/m/

Cheers,

Juan

[rockman525]

I'm not quite sure of your body type but even under those dreadful safelights I think you could get away with a mid length fitted black cocktail dress from Oscar de la Renta (Leica man...I just know it!), black satin 4" heels with rhinestones by Dikuza, and a simple black alligator bag with 21 carat gold clasp from Gucci. When you have finished your cross processing just slip your M7 into Mr Gucci's warm interior and hit the streets for some late night action. Have fun :)

[rxmd]

If you want to have them printed in a 1-hour lab, you have to take care that the minilab's automatic frame detection may not work if the colour of the base is off by too much. I find that Kodak film is much less problematic than Fuji in this respect.

I currently use Kodak 5285 (=E100D) with good results.

Also you may have to convince the 1-hour lab people that they will take slide film at all, and/or prepare to get complaints when they hand you back your film. Cross-processing messes up their chemistry.

[dave lackey]

Looking to experiment with some slide film cross processed in C41 chemicals (1-hr lab most likely...) Any recommendations for which slide film or general advice? Samples would be wonderful... Thanks in advance!

Umm...tried it and results are kind of unpredictable, yet kinda cool:

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=84450&stc=1&d=1296658600

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=84451&stc=1&d=1296658627

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=84452&stc=1&d=1296658638

[dave lackey]

One more:

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=84453&stc=1&d=1296659472

[buzzardkid]

I'm not quite sure of your body type but even under those dreadful safelights I think you could get away with a mid length fitted black cocktail dress from Oscar de la Renta (Leica man...I just know it!), black satin 4" heels with rhinestones by Dikuza, and a simple black alligator bag with 21 carat gold clasp from Gucci. When you have finished your cross processing just slip your M7 into Mr Gucci's warm interior and hit the streets for some late night action. Have fun :)

:D:D:p

Ah, we have a specialist on the topic here

:p

I shot Kodak EDUPE film (slide duplicating film, past date) rated as 50ASA and had it crossed in C41. Very nice.

Ask LeicaTom on details, he's known to have shots cross-processed every now and then

[John Lawrence]

I've tried it with Fuji Sensia II (100) and found that I got a very red cast at ISO 100, but had better results exposing at ISO 25.

John

[Mablo]

Kodak 100G goes nicely in C41. It doesn't look at all like cross processed.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4091/5010929443_5a3150215e_b.jpg

[filmtwit]

Keep in mind that most labs won't touch xprocess because it contaminates tanks. Also, as far as stability and predictability in reality you won't have any.

[LeicaTom]

That contamination and ruining chemicals while doing this is a bunch of BS!!!!!!

http://modelmayhm-8.vo.llnwd.net/d1/photos/070925/00/46f88bc69f415.jpg (http://www.modelmayhem.com/pic.php?pid=5545283&group_id=&ua=)

http://modelmayhm-3.vo.llnwd.net/d1/photos/070911/08/46e69c3b2c6af.jpg (http://www.modelmayhem.com/pic.php?pid=4023374&group_id=&ua=)

http://modelmayhm-3.vo.llnwd.net/d1/photos/070911/08/46e69d981a204.jpg (http://www.modelmayhem.com/pic.php?pid=4034135&group_id=&ua=)

http://modelmayhm-3.vo.llnwd.net/d1/photos/070911/08/46e69e4c24e83.jpg (http://www.modelmayhem.com/pic.php?pid=4034169&group_id=&ua=)

http://modelmayhm-6.vo.llnwd.net/d1/photos/090330/18/49d1747e5b7e4.jpg (http://www.modelmayhem.com/pic.php?pid=10345522&group_id=&ua=)

http://modelmayhm-8.vo.llnwd.net/d1/photos/080707/16/48727908d954b.jpg (http://www.modelmayhem.com/pic.php?pid=7150970&group_id=&ua=)

I've been CP films since the late 1980's and the only problem you get is if you send like 6 to 10 rolls of the stuff through at a time, then you will "spike" the chemicals, back when I shot alot, still I only put one or two rolls through a week (spaced) and it never altered the store's chemicals of ruined anything.

Most 1 hour labs WON'T develop the E6 tp C-41 anyway, bc of that stigma that it ruins stuff....... I have a "buddy" at my shop who does it when the boss isn't looking.......she also prints work to OUR STANDARD she takes the extra time to channel out unwanted colors and get the look I want, pale blown out skin, red red lips etc.

Kodak 100 Slide film works best, though there was a Agfa slide film I used in Germany back in the late 80's early 90's I don't rememeber which, I'm sure it was discontinued film, while I never used fresh new expensive slide films, I always used out of date, discontinued stuff, $1 A ROLL OR LESS, films which sadly turned out to be kickass film which I couldn't find anymore *1990's Kodak Ektachrome "Extra Color" was the BEST CP film ever made, it's IMPOSSIBLE to find now, I think I have (2) rolls still frozen*

Treat CP film just like slide film, I "overexpose" by 1 or 1 1/2 stops, always better to watch your lighting and bracket a few shots, dark shots and shadows are unforgiving and too far overexposed will ruin details, it's a real happy/unhappy medium getting it right, each roll of film is different.

I find that overcast days shoot CP really well, I stay out of direct bright sunshine.....

I haven't been doing much CP lately, the whole of shooting of film has been down in my business. :(

Tom

[filmtwit]

Do you really want your neg's processed right after the guy who had his neg's xprocessed?

[LeicaTom]

Do you really want your neg's processed right after the guy who had his neg's xprocessed?
Wouldn't bother me, I have ran BOTH types of film through 1 hour apart and no problems!

Tom

[nimcod]

from memory, as the tech sheets at work.

kodak state not to run more than 2 concurrent films of e6 through the c41 process before a manual replenishment or/c41 film break, and not to exceed more than 10% of your daily processing load with e6.

ive always stuck with this for the last year and never had a problem with my chemistry. but i can understand some lab techs being more wary due to the lack of information.

if i recall it shifts the ph level of the chems to rather than another type of contamination.

[dmr]

Looking to experiment with some slide film cross processed in C41 chemicals (1-hr lab most likely...) Any recommendations for which slide film or general advice? Samples would be wonderful... Thanks in advance!

The only thing I've ever cross-processed is Sensia, and I really didn't intend to shoot it that way. It turned out OK. Story and photos here:

http://omababe.blogspot.com/2007/10/cross-processing-bean.html

To get it processed I just took it to Walgreens with a few rolls of c41 and played dumb. I ordered a DO (no CD) for all. The negatives came out exactly as expected, clear base, no amber mask, and clear negative images.

They scanned just fine on the SD IV. :)

One thing I want to do as soon as the weather becomes non-sucky is to shoot a "revitalized" neighborhood (which has been shot to death, almost en cliche', by local photogs) but do it in cross-processed MF for a twist I haven't seen, yet, anyway. :)

I picked up a roll of 120 Provia 100 for this, but the way the weather has been, it ain't gonna happen for at least several weeks. :(

I will post some samples when I do it.

[NickTrop]

Great advice and great samples (partial to LeicaTom's though ;) ... ) Thanks, all... Kodak 100 speed. Walgreen's, add a few other rolls, play dumb... Any labs I can mail to that will do this for a reasonable rate w/o playing dumb? Thanks again...

[filmtwit]

ANd yet, most labs won't touch xprocess . . .

Wouldn't bother me, I have ran BOTH types of film through 1 hour apart and no problems!

Tom

My two old stories concerning xprocessed:
I used to work at the only motion picture film lab in LA that handled xprocessed film. We did all the camera neg development on the film "Three Kings" which had about 40% of the film shot in xprocessed. The work from the original was astounding. We'd color time and within 12 hours would make IP's and (and then) IN's of the material to lock down the color. The IN's were then used as cut neg's in the OCN. We were surprised at how much of the color was lost though in the release prints due to being 4-5 generations away from the OCN's.

Years ago I handled a friends wedding reception with E6 (Fuji), gave him the rolls to get get developed (he's a former photographer and I noted that these should be processed in E6). He gave them to his wife who took them the local version of Wallymart and was shocked at the results of the xprocessed film they got back ("Jeff, what did you do our film!"). Ugh.

[Disaster_Area]

The one biggest piece of advice I can give is to underexpose by about a stop, contrary to what you'll read online in a lot of places. I've seen a lot people say to overexpose, but I find highlights blow WAY too much doing this. It's ok if you want a super high contast, posterized style image, but if you just want the funky colour shifts, underexpose. I've tried a few different films... I really liked fuji's films, especially Astia and RMS... velvia is ok, but not my favorite. Fuji RMS is my all time favorite but it's been discontinued for quite a while now...a real shame :(


Fuji RMS:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2615/3678650446_68c807d169.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jbhildebrand/3678650446/)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3655/3678660362_4bb326631f.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jbhildebrand/3678660362/)


Fuji Velvia
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3428/3807753215_ec6b02edfb.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jbhildebrand/3807753215/)

Kodak Ektachrome:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2477/3808513240_e523efa8c3.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jbhildebrand/3808513240/)

Fuji Astia
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2746/4154822807_03746f87a1.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jbhildebrand/4154822807/)

[Freakscene]

*1990's Kodak Ektachrome "Extra Color" was the BEST CP film ever made, it's IMPOSSIBLE to find now, I think I have (2) rolls still frozen*

Yes, Kodak EPP was the best cross-process film for everyone - easiest to shoot, easiest to process and print, very predictable, great results - but is now long gone.

Cross processing does not have negative effects on large volume C41 machines if, as Tom points out, you don't run too much through the machine at once.

It was popular enough that a lab where I worked had a dedicated xpro line at one time.

Marty

[dmr]

ANd yet, most labs won't touch xprocess . . .


Ooooohhhhh! Major coincidence here.

I know I've mentioned here that I have a FOAF who runs the photo department at a local (but very inconvenient to me) Wally World.

Well, I just got a call from my friend on a totally different topic, and for some reason I mentioned cross processing.

He said that they tried it early one morning before they decomissioned the film machine at that shop. He said they just ran it through, with the normal run of CD and prints, and that it worked fine, but both the prints and CD scans were "greenish" but otherwise normal.

This was on a Fuji 390 Minilab.

He said the big boss looked in and asked what the heck they were doing, but didn't seem too concerned about it.

He's gonna send me a few scans from that job when he gets home. He didn't say what film, but I'm assuming some kind of Ektachrome or Elite Chrome.


Now, back to the new project at hand. When I picked up the Provia (this was at our remaining real photo shop) I told him what I was going to do and asked if they would (cross) process it. He said they do it all the time.

[filmtwit]

Ya, Fuji E6 xprocessed tends to go green from what I remember.

Ooooohhhhh! Major coincidence here.

I know I've mentioned here that I have a FOAF who runs the photo department at a local (but very inconvenient to me) Wally World.

Well, I just got a call from my friend on a totally different topic, and for some reason I mentioned cross processing.

He said that they tried it early one morning before they decomissioned the film machine at that shop. He said they just ran it through, with the normal run of CD and prints, and that it worked fine, but both the prints and CD scans were "greenish" but otherwise normal.

This was on a Fuji 390 Minilab.

He said the big boss looked in and asked what the heck they were doing, but didn't seem too concerned about it.

He's gonna send me a few scans from that job when he gets home. He didn't say what film, but I'm assuming some kind of Ektachrome or Elite Chrome.


Now, back to the new project at hand. When I picked up the Provia (this was at our remaining real photo shop) I told him what I was going to do and asked if they would (cross) process it. He said they do it all the time.

[dmr]

Ya, Fuji E6 xprocessed tends to go green from what I remember.

From what I've seen and experienced, cross-processed slide film has "that look" to it, which usually includes some rather bizarre color shifts including, yes, green.

The only one on this page which does not have "that look" is the one of the cow above. All of Tom's, Dave's, and most of Disaster's have "that look" to them.

For my upcoming shoot, yes, I want "that look" for effect. :)

[excellent]

I don't know if you would want to process c41 in e6 but I just found some old Kodak gold 200 x processed shots and it had a nice look to it.
The best part is Kodak gold film will cost next to nothing compared to the price of e6 film.

[nightfly]

I like Kodak Elitechrome 100.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/200/466504947_a12dc4f706_z.jpg?zz=1

http://www.robertgruber.com/photos/2006-039-07.jpg

http://www.robertgruber.com/photos/2006-039-29.jpg

[jan normandale]

Nick almost every film known and unknown has been xpro'd by this group. Get busy!! ;D

http://www.flickr.com/groups/crossprocessing/

never know you might find some of my stuff there too...

[jan normandale]

I don't know if you would want to process c41 in e6 but I just found some old Kodak gold 200 x processed shots and it had a nice look to it.
The best part is Kodak gold film will cost next to nothing compared to the price of e6 film.

I'd be really interested to see the results. FWIW you might save on the cost of C41 vs E6 film but the E6 processing is about 4-5 times current C41 processing prices... just a thought..

[dyao]

any tips for scanning xpro? I tried scanning as a negative and scanning as a positive and then inverting. this is with an epson v700, with the epsonscan software.

scanning as a positive and then inverting gave me really blown out highlights - scanning as a negative was better.

any tips for color correction in photoshop?

[Coldkennels]

The one biggest piece of advice I can give is to underexpose by about a stop, contrary to what you'll read online in a lot of places. I've seen a lot people say to overexpose, but I find highlights blow WAY too much doing this. [QUOTE]

I'll second that. You can get away with indoor/night time/overcast shots at box speed, but anything decently lit will often be completely whited out.

[QUOTE=dyao;1537273]any tips for scanning xpro? ... any tips for color correction in photoshop?

Personally, I don't give it too much time. Canoscan 9000F, standard MP navigator software, manual settings, auto tone off, no tinkering with curves etc. Get it into iPhoto, use the colour-balancing tool to get somewhere near reality, fine-tune using the colour adjustment bars. I don't have Photoshop, but I imagine similar options are available.